Hatch Trimming Question

[Strop]

I am looking at using Steve Frederick's method for my hatch sealing system. I can see exactly how it works with a woody where here is no metal trim. Unfortunately I see lots of potential problems when you skin and trim the sides and the hatch. I am imagining that it puts out all the gaps and distances.

So, just wondering if anyone knows of a Build Journal (I could not find one) that shows how they did it or can anyone provide me tips on what needs to be modified to do it.

All the best

Laurie

[tony.latham]

Laurie:

Good question. I dithered over this too.

Here's how I did it on #1 & #2 builds and will do the same on my current project. I'm a big fan of Steve's build methods.

I used a CMT 835.501.11 "Variable Depth From 1/8-Inch to 1/2-Inch, 1/2-Inch Cutting Height, 1/2-Inch Shank Rabbeting Router Bit Set" –$42 at Amazon. I used this to cut shallow grooves for the trim on both the walls where they meet the hatch and the hatch. I then trimmed with aluminum that has a short 1/4" leg that could make the bend.









It'll work and is fairly easy to do. Looks fine. The hard part for me was finding that router bit.

Tony

p.s. I'm one of those forum slackards that hasn't done a build thread, but you can watch my first build here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2I8uM_U54p4

[Strop]

Tony,

I had seen the photo of the hatch closed with the trim on the wall and the hatch so I knew someone had done it. Thank you very much for that advice. It seems so simple when someone who has figured it out tells you.

Now, knowing nothing about routers - that is also on my list of things to learn, I can now progress with my planning with some confidence. A little bit anyway.

The only thing I don't like about the method is losing that little bit of galley space. I had to move the table top back 100mm as I had forgotten about the gusset.

Thanks again mate. I am sure it won't be the last time.

Laurie

[noseoil]

Laurie, take a look at "plunge" type model. The Ryobi model 150 or 151 (both older now) were excellent tools and very nice to use. You may be able to find one on a "used" site near you for not too much money. A router is pretty easy to use & able to save a lot of time when used properly. I used mine to transfer the skeletonized side panel profile on the build from one side to the other. It was then used to transfer the rear curve of the shape, to make the hatch ribs. I don't try to hog out a huge cut with mine, just rough-cut to size, screw or clamp the two parts together and then make the finished cut to stack parts which are all the same. It takes some thinking at times, but a router is actually just a small hand-held milling machine, when you get right down to it. It was used to make the 3/8" X 1 5/8" rabbet for the headliner & roof spars. Here's one example you can look at to see what I mean.

[Strop]

Router is definitely on the to buy list. Christmas is near

[tony.latham]

"I had to move the table top back 100mm as I had forgotten about the gusset."

We find our galley very-very user friendly and I'm not changing it a bit on build #3. When I built the little 4x8, my bro-in-law was concerned about it shortening the counter but I don't think they'd tweak it either. A lot depends on how the rear of your teardrop will be shaped.

Tony