Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Diemjoe wrote:I am going with a Grumman 2 profile. To profile is mostly curve but spars have at least 1" flat surface to connect to. I am hoping to not have visible nails. Is there anything special I would need to do (shaping the spar) in order to get full contact or is adhesive thick enough to cover the gap? I am planning a wood roof so am wondering if square to curve may cause some ripples in the look?

Thanks

halfdome, Danny wrote:I just glue with Titebond II and a couple screws through the walls to the end grain of the spars.
The glued and stapled roof sheathing marries the walls and spars together to make a nice strong joint.
I use two layers of 1/8" Baltic Birch plywood to make a really solid roof.
The second course of 1/8" is installed from the opposite end with full glue coverage & to span the joints of the first course.
Never had any issues.
Danny

dales133 wrote:What do you glue the roof sheets together with?

The same Titebond II.
I skin over it with .040 anodized aluminum that's glued on with contact cement.
Danny

KCStudly wrote:Danny, do you infill between the spars to form a ledger for fastening the roof skins (essentially "spar filler" corner blocking to staple the roof skin to, rather than going into the edge grain of the wall)?

This "spar filler" technique adds a great deal of strength and aids in the connection of the spar to wall when fit tight and glued solidly.

Yes, I always add 3/4" to 1 1/2" blocking between spars depending on what's available/handy.
I come back with a straight top bearing router bit to flush them up with the walls.
I use a 3/16" crown x 5/8" staple and staple both the wall and the blocking when installing the roof skins.
I have a 1/4" deep continuous 1 5/8" wide rabbet from one end of the wall to the other end for the ceiling to attach to before I install the spars.
This allows for 3 layers of 1/2" foam insulation before the roof skins go on.
This rabbet leaves me with a 1/2" thick wall at that point so blocking is essential.
I need the extra thickness that the blocking gives for the screws that attach the RV insert molding over the aluminum skins.
I was doing this blocking procedure just the other day.
Danny

ajliquidation wrote:Danny do you have any pictures of this? I think I understand what all you guys are saying but some pics would really help. Sorry I'm needy! Thanks Adam in KC

Here you go.
The blocking is what's being clamped.
The screws you see in the spars are going through the ceiling and into my headboard shelf and dividers.
Marries everything together to make a very strong box.
Danny