Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

So I'm about ready to start my build , here's my idea , I just want a basic rectangle with 19" radius front and rear with barn door style rear door's with tables that fold down off the door's for additional counter space so to speak I know it won't be a teardrop but a tiny camper at least ? Any input on my idea good or bad ?? ( Gerry's Teardrop in the hall of fame with barn door rear doors )

Sounds like it should be good, do you have any pics of similar trailers or a sketch for reference?

I know it won't be a teardrop but a tiny camper at least ?

Hey, works for me.

I'm just wondering if you've figured out how you're going to get barn-type doors to close tightly and keep the dust and water out? (There must be a way?)

T

If you have a 19" radius at the rear, you have two options:

- you have two barn doors plus a partial hatch above them to get a full height opening, or

- you have just two barn doors and the opening stops at about chest height where the bottom of the 19" radius ends.

It might be tempting to think of incorporating a 19" curve into the top of each barn door to match the body curve, but that wouldn't work as the curved tops would clash before they were open - as well as being nearly impossible to get all the curves to match.

I spent this weekend in and out of the rain at a gathering. I want to go on record that my rear barn doors were left open in the rain a portion of that time. I am real glad I added the prow on the barn to help deflect the rain.






Maybe this profile will give you an idea........

angib wrote:If you have a 19" radius at the rear, you have two options:

- you have two barn doors plus a partial hatch above them to get a full height opening, or

- you have just two barn doors and the opening stops at about chest height where the bottom of the 19" radius ends.

It might be tempting to think of incorporating a 19" curve into the top of each barn door to match the body curve, but that wouldn't work as the curved tops would clash before they were open - as well as being nearly impossible to get all the curves to match.

To expand on these excellent points the first would enable you to let the curved hatch slightly overlap the top of the barn doors providing an extra measure of securing them when closed and also shed water away from the top of the barn doors.

As for water / dust leakage on barn doors I built mine (the back of my trailer is square) so the vertical edge of one overlaps the other when closed and have no problems. Similar to Bob's prow, I have a rain gutter over the barn door tops which diverts water off the roof to the sides. I also have a small tarp / awning which extends over and around the galley when the barn doors are open.

I would recommend you make a mock up with cardboard boxes to check the access to the galley and clearance of the hatch if you decide on that option. Also decide if you want the barn doors to open 90 degrees providing some side protection or wider to provide more access to the galley.

I have a shelf on the inside of one door where the Coleman stove sits and it clears the counter top when the door is closed. The other door has a shelf with a plastic milk crate that also clears the counter top. That could be substituted for a small wash basin leaving the full width of the counter top clear. My wash basin is permanently mounted in the center of the countertop with gravity fed water supply and connected to a portable gray-water tank - both are 5 gallon plastic jugs.

The arrangement of the shelves on the doors maximizes the storage space in the galley when traveling and minimizes the set-up time when camping or preparing food, Not seen in this photo but I also have small plastic containers mounted on tracks on the underside of the shelf above the countertop, The doors with their shelves secure those plastic containers when traveling.

It's not pretty but it is functional.

I went looking for a better picture......

In this one you see the overlap at the top and the fact the door extends below the floor.

The strongback screwed in at the bottom to strengthen the door act as a water stop
and it also carries the weight of the door in transit as it rests tight to the floor.

The side rail strengthens the door vertically and seals against the side stud to prevent water invasion.
My thought was to install a rubber or expanded foam insulation seal but to date I have found it unnecessary.

You can do something. Like bobs drawing and then on the doors overlap them but you will have to cut a dado in both doors one on top side and other on bottom that way when closed they nestle together then run your seal tape around doors so it seals against wall and that should do ya

M C Toyer wrote:

angib wrote:If you have a 19" radius at the rear, you have two options:

- you have two barn doors plus a partial hatch above them to get a full height opening, or

- you have just two barn doors and the opening stops at about chest height where the bottom of the 19" radius ends.

It might be tempting to think of incorporating a 19" curve into the top of each barn door to match the body curve, but that wouldn't work as the curved tops would clash before they were open - as well as being nearly impossible to get all the curves to match.

To expand on these excellent points the first would enable you to let the curved hatch slightly overlap the top of the barn doors providing an extra measure of securing them when closed and also shed water away from the top of the barn doors.

As for water / dust leakage on barn doors I built mine (the back of my trailer is square) so the vertical edge of one overlaps the other when closed and have no problems. Similar to Bob's prow, I have a rain gutter over the barn door tops which diverts water off the roof to the sides. I also have a small tarp / awning which extends over and around the galley when the barn doors are open.

I would recommend you make a mock up with cardboard boxes to check the access to the galley and clearance of the hatch if you decide on that option. Also decide if you want the barn doors to open 90 degrees providing some side protection or wider to provide more access to the galley.

I have a shelf on the inside of one door where the Coleman stove sits and it clears the counter top when the door is closed. The other door has a shelf with a plastic milk crate that also clears the counter top. That could be substituted for a small wash basin leaving the full width of the counter top clear. My wash basin is permanently mounted in the center of the countertop with gravity fed water supply and connected to a portable gray-water tank - both are 5 gallon plastic jugs.

The arrangement of the shelves on the doors maximizes the storage space in the galley when traveling and minimizes the set-up time when camping or preparing food, Not seen in this photo but I also have small plastic containers mounted on tracks on the underside of the shelf above the countertop, The doors with their shelves secure those plastic containers when traveling.

It's not pretty but it is functional.

What did you use for hinges?

I just used standard door butt hinges, face mounted, because the doors are 1/2" plywood. You can't see the side of the hinge attached to the door because the siding is on top of it. I add another 1/2" backer on the inside in order to use 1" screws.

If you are face mounting pretty much any utility, t, or piano hinge will work. If you want something more ornate gate or barn door hardware will work also. If you use butt hinges in the normal configuration you may want to mortise the door edge and jamb to get a tighter fit.

You can see at the top of the doors I used a folding 90 degree shelf bracket to hold the doors open. Due to my taillight placement and the trailer sidewalls extending a bit past the doors the door won't open much more than 90 degrees. Since I'm a solo cook it is not a real problem but something you may want to keep in mind for wider access to the galley.

Check my current build, "# 5 - Road Ready" for a slightly different approach.