Generic Benroy hatch/roof spar (rafter) question

[TimC]

Hi all,

I am at the point of attaching the rafter on the back end of my roof where the hatch would begin. I am a bit confused with the Generic Benroy Plan. I understand they are suggesting two 1x2 rafters (spars) at that point, but, do I laminate those together or is one the first part of the hatch frame?

Photo below is where I am at this point. Pictured is one of two 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" rafters. My next step is to square the last rafter with the hatch opening after I figure out the answer to the above question. Thanks!

[mikeschn]

Those 2 spars are laminated together to make it strong. You want plenty of support for the hatch hinge.

You can laminate them horizontal, vertical, or just cut a piece of wood 1.5" wide by 1.5" high. The end result is the same.

The other issue is the size of the hinge. Some hinges are wider, and if you only have 3/4" spar, you might not be able to get a screw into it.

Mike...

[TimC]

Those 2 spars are laminated together to make it strong. You want plenty of support for the hatch hinge.

You can laminate them horizontal, vertical, or just cut a piece of wood 1.5" wide by 1.5" high. The end result is the same.

The other issue is the size of the hinge. Some hinges are wider, and if you only have 3/4" spar, you might not be able to get a screw into it.

Mike...

Thanks Mike, I went with 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 treated pine laminated together with Gorilla glue. I ran out of PL Premium, otherwise I would of used that. Should be plenty of surface area there and they are beefy. I'm thinking of attaching the hatch hinge with stainless machine screws rather than wood type screws so pull out shouldn't be a problem. I'm thinking plastic living hinge. Cost is more budget friendly and if I need to replace after ten years it still is budget friendly.

[noseoil]

Just make sure to allow for a regular hinge (hurricane type) later on & it's all good. I see threads about the living hinges not lasting very long with the mechanical loads generated by a heavy hatch, flex, sun, weather, etc. over longer times. They don't seem to last as long as a metal hinge. If you can change hinges later on, so much the better.

The hurricane hinge I got needs a 3/8" gap between the edge of the hatch & the edge of the roof (or the spar-to-spar gap, where the hatch meets the roof). If you allow for that amount of gap now, you can always change to fit the new hinge without too much trouble. I'm using red oak for the hinge spars (both the hatch & the roof) because they will take & hold fasteners better than a soft wood. The spar on the trailer needs to be about an inch thick for fasteners to take properly with the hinge I'm using.

[mikeschn]

I tried the living hinge on my last winter warrior. I hate it. It flexes too much, and it isn't even water tight.

It's back to the metal hinges for me...

Mike...

[TimC]

Bummer! I haven't done a lot of research on the living hinges but haven't seen many negatives. I'll have to rethink my plan. I've had aluminum hinges in the past and remember dirt lodging in the pivot points and screeching when opened until they were lubed, then constant black dripping oil all over. Probably doesn't apply here? I do see them picking up loads of road grime and grit over time.