Hitch Rattle...HELP

[Franco Novo]

Well, finally got the trailer out of the garage and took it for a spin. Trailer is empty, so it's bouncing a bit.
But generally it handles well, I even backed it into this tiny 8' garage I'm working in...and, truthfully I've never towed a trailer before.

I'm wondering if anyone has any tips about that annoying Hitch Rattle.
I got the hitch installed at U haul, but had to buy the hitchbar from a different company, cuz I needed a 6" rise
The fit is so sloppy. Every start, when the tranny shifts gears, every stop, it's clunking and rattling and thumping, sounds like it's self destructing.

I know there are several anti rattle devices one could buy, but I'm a DIY kinda guy, scabbed this thing together with parts laying around.
Surely some of you clever mechanical types with lots of towing advice have some home made fixes for the rattle
Tried a few winds of electrical tape...well, that didn't work...

Ideas?

thank you
Franco

[ctstaas]

Hi there,
It sounds like there is a significant problem that should be fixed before your next tow..Trailer balls come in a wide range of sizes and you need the size that fits your hitch receiver. I refuse to use any other than a 2" ball and receivers= no confusion. Balls do wear out and are relatively cheap so if in question replace it. Are you sure the ball is mounted tightly? I hope this might help.
Enjoy, Chris

[Franco Novo]

the ball is fine Chris, it is the 1 7/8" ball used on these trailers, adjusted just fine.
It's where the Hitch goes into the Receiver tube.

You can see on this image , where there was some tape, and looks like a shim added to stop the rattle
If you do a Google search for hitch rattle, you can see all kinds of devices to remedy this.
I read where some folks used the anti rattle pins and such, and didn't have good luck.

[Redneck Teepee]

I will tell you how I fix mine and you can decide if it will work for you. You will need access to a welder and preferably a milling machine or at least a side/angle grinder, the milling machine being the most accurate but a grinder will work with a little patience and some trial and error.

Insert and pin your hitch into the receiver, then make a mark on top of the hitch at the very edge of the receiver looking down upon it.
Remove it and make another mark about 1/2" inboard of that, so that if you were to reinsert and pin it again you cannot see the second mark, it will be about a 1/2" inside the receiver.
Now with a welder run a small bead across the second mark on the top flat material only, stay away from the radiused sides of the tube.
Now take a pair of calipers and measure the inside dimension of the top to bottom of the receiver at its widest point.
You then set the hitch up on a milling machine and take it down to about minus .005" to .010" less than your receiver opening. Over time everything will wear in, so the snugger the better.
You may have to ream your 5/8" pin hole after the fact, but this will eliminate your rattle and you can do the same for a side to side movement if need be.
As I stated....... if no milling machine is available a steady hand with a grinder will suffice.

I automatically do a top and side when I do them....... just because. Hope I was of help......

[Franco Novo]

That's a great idea....thanks for that response.
I think I read that somewhere too
now, the problem being...I don't weld, or have access to a milling machine..

what about a bead of JB Weld ? think that would work?
I also read in some other forum where some guy flattens out an old license plate and uses that for shims....

I know wood or plastic shims or anything wedged from the outside in might work, but would make it almost impossible to remove the thing.

Franco

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

I'm wondering if anyone has any tips about that annoying Hitch Rattle.
I got the hitch installed at U haul, but had to buy the hitchbar from a different company, cuz I needed a 6" rise
The fit is so sloppy. Every start, when the tranny shifts gears, every stop, it's clunking and rattling and thumping, sounds like it's self destructing.

I know there are several anti rattle devices one could buy, but I'm a DIY kinda guy, scabbed this thing together with parts laying around.

Hi Franco,
I can relate to the hitch rattle and fixed mine by buying a square 'U' bolt (Hitch Clamp - Cross Clamp 2" Heavy Duty - Anti-Rattle hitch coupling clamp) from Campers World ... It attaches to the juncture between the hitch and hitch bar. I put mine on with the round bar and nuts on top (as pic'd on Amazon) to press the hitch bar down ... as in the normal weighted position. It takes the clanking and banging out of both my cargo conversion and my 19-1/2 foot Fun Finder ...

Here is a link to the same clamp, Hitch Clamp, on Amazon.com:
http://www.amazon.com/Hitch-Clamp-Cross ... itch+clamp

I am a Good Sam member and the price was about $20_if I remember correctly ... the best $20 I spent and the peace of mind is worth twice that

It wasn't expensive, works; and is quick to install ... it has also been back and forth to Arizona from Minnesota (2,000+ miles one-way) and I love it!!!

Good luck on whatever you buy or make

[Franco Novo]

Hi AZ...
I was just looking at a bunch of anti rattle devices online
that one looks the best...I agree....and..I also have a U bolt that fits around perfectly, with a flat plate on the bottom
I'm going to attempt to mod it, just grind a round into a chunk of metal and drill two holes to replace the flat plate ...should be easy

I thought there would be more on this topic in the forums...every other site I go to..trailer sites...there are pages and pages of people tired of that annoying clunking and clanging.

Of course, another thing. tongue weight...I still have room for a box, or something on the front...
and, towing a tiny trailer like this empty, it's going to bounce all over the place..., but this is too much noise, and eventually I worry about wear and fatigue on the 1 1/4" hitch....since it's not a beefy 2" coupler.

Thanks for your reply...you sound like an experienced traveler, for sure.
Best,
Franco

[Glenn Butcher]

Had the same problem, got one of these:


Stowaway Hitch Tightener, here's the amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/StowAway-Carriers ... B0001CMUV4

Works like a charm...

[Franco Novo]

Yep, that's the other one I looked at.....does the job i bet.
thanks
Franco

[AZ_Desert_Rat]

Hi AZ...
I was just looking at a bunch of anti rattle devices online
that one looks the best...I agree....and..I also have a U bolt that fits around perfectly, with a flat plate on the bottom
I'm going to attempt to mod it, just grind a round into a chunk of metal and drill two holes to replace the flat plate ...should be easy

Hi Franco,
It sounds like you have a handle on the noise AND quieting it down.
I cannot stand to hear noise while I am towing ... Growing up around machinery, noise is usually a bad thing and when noise can blanket a real problem, it can become a real issue.

I have a short garage and must remove the hitch bar to get the truck in the garage (a real PITA), but the whole thing only takes a few minutes to install or remove AND gives me a chance to inspect the hitch pin, ball, bar, etc for wear or damage. I do NOT oil/grease the hitch bar, but I clean and grease the ball and coupler to reduce wear ... yes, you can replace the ball, but replacing the coupler is a bigger job. Some folks do not grease the ball and coupler, but I have seen a bunch that are severely worn. I generally use a wheel bearing grease (because it is handy), but a less sticky grease that doesn't collect dirt would be better.

I liked the way the Hitch Clamp fit the hitch and clamped the hitch bar down as well as provided a frictional member between hitch and hitch bar. There are other similar clamps on the market that appear to provide a similar basic clamping and frictional member between the two pieces.

I am getting ready to head back out to Arizona (I hope) when it cools down a bit there and get a bit of prospecting in ... I added another 600# to the Fun Finder for this trip by carrying my older 4x4 ATV. The weight doesn't seem bad, but the bike loads wheel center aft and you can feel the lighter tongue ... It is not too bad, but I will remember to load the trailer differently with more weight forward. Adding another Grp-27 12 volt Deep Cycle (2 total) to the tongue and making sure the fore-mounted water tank is full will all help.

Good luck ... maybe we will cross paths one day, enjoy a chat and cold one over a campfire ...

[bobhenry]

As a former U haul manager I can inform you that Drawtite hitches are about an 1/8 " more robust than some of the after market 1 1/4' drawbars The most sane way to answer your problem is to purchase a true Drawtite draw bar.

However I have used builder shims driven in between the drawbar and the receiver.

I had a friend who loves to weld and hated the ratter on his truck. He drilled a hole under the receiver and welded a large nut to the hole. In the nut he screwed in a short hex bolt equipped with a locking nut. The bolt end tightened onto the drawbar and locked it solidly inside the receiver.

[Franco Novo]

Hey guys
thanks for the responses
I did fashion my own anti rattle based on the one that AZ was talking about
that, and 2 small aluminum shims cut from some old siding did a lot
Plus, I'm mounting an old cooler on the front....and going to get some weight in the thing
Perhaps tomorrow, take it out again....I'm sure it will be a grand improvement.

One big pain with this trailer, was mucking out the grease that came with the trailer, and re packing the wheel bearings
I had to pull the rear seal on one of them....and since the thing was never driven, it came out and went back in without a problem..(fingers crossed")
But, in the process, broke off one of the cheap ass zerk fittings on one wheel, gotta hunt one down...anyone know the size. ?
You think Harbor freight would have bearing kits in their stores, but they don't. Just like a lot of their trailers take a 1 1/4" hitch and tube
but all they sell in the store is 2".
I had posted earlier asking what size are the wheel bearings, but didn't get any responses....anyone know what size bearing the 12" 4 lug tires take.


Franco

[Padilen]

Do you have a tractor supply or auto parts store near you. Auto Value here in MI has seals and bearing kits as does tractor supply. Auto parts stores in your area might also. I believe mine are 1 or 1 1/4 I'll check later but yours could be something else.

[bobhenry]

I had posted earlier asking what size are the wheel bearings, but didn't get any responses....anyone know what size bearing the 12" 4 lug tires take.


Franco

Here's the bearing number -- 30205 25mmx52mm taper bearing

I had problems with the dustcaps coming off . They are also 52mm I believe. I was able to find 52mm Bearing Buddies that fit tight.

I trashed a hub on an outing and was able to walk right into a farm store and out from under the counter came a complete hub assembly with both bearings for about $25.00 They stocked both 4 and 5 lug style

[Franco Novo]

ahh...thank you Bob..Henry

Here's the bearing number -- 30205 25mmx52mm taper bearing

this is a great help

Seems like Farm Stores are mentioned a lot, that's good to know, I 'm sure they've seen every type of trailer rig in the world come through

best,
Franco