daveesl77 wrote:I took several 2x6 and 2x8 rough cut WR cedar boards and using my trusty bandsaw, resawed 1500 linear feet of cedar for the sides of Conch Fritter. It took me 3 weeks, I still have a bunch left over and loved every minute of it. Yes, it means more maintenance, but boy does it get the looks and it just feels right.
dave
daveesl77 wrote:When I cut the strips (3/16" thick x 1 to 2" wide) I initially considered planing them down to make them really flat. But then decided I wanted a more natural look, so I just left the slight curves the bandsaw made during the resawing process. Once attached to the 1/8" plywood backing, I sanded everything down, but still leaving those slight "waves". It is sealed with the "mix", starting with 75% mineral spirits - 25% spar urethane, then 50:50, then 25:75, then 3 coats of full strength spar urethane. This is essentially how I've been doing it on boats for decades and never had a problem. That includes many, many tens of thousands of miles of open ocean sailing, including two solo transatlantic crossings. I considered doing an epoxy base, but went back to my roots. Varnish and poly have never failed me yet.
I used no stains, but was pretty picky in getting the rough cut. I wanted different colors, striations and tones. I attempted to book match the 2 sides, but that did not quite work out. This winter I start on the front and rear sections, incorporating aluminum panels with the cedar. Then I'm building a "pirate chest" for the tongue box. The rough cut wood was pretty cheap, just a lot of work.
dave
Talia62 wrote:There is a fourth skin to consider: canvas.
daveesl77 wrote:No, the 4th skin is what is commonly called PMF or Poor Mans Fiberglas. I have it on the front, back and bottom of mine. It has been used for centuries on boats. It is fairly inexpensive, very easy to work with and can come out with an amazingly nice finish. Once hardened, it is just about bulletproof.
dave
tony.latham wrote:I built two wooden drift boats and sold them with the business that they supported. I'd like to have one someday, but it'll be aluminum or fiberglass. Or I'll have a shed to park it in. I've got a cedar strip canoe that's sweet... but it stays indoors unless it's on the water (epoxy with spar over the top of it). Nothing beats the look of a clear wood finish... but they do require maintenance if exposed.
I'll stick to aluminum clad teardrops but would consider one covered with epoxy/fiberglass and painted with a good bedliner. (Mine does wear a cover in the winter to make sure it's not getting any leakage.)
T
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