Fastening the floor to the trailer so it can be removed

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Fastening the floor to the trailer so it can be removed

Postby skyl4rk » Thu Apr 21, 2016 9:27 pm

What is a good way to clamp or fasten the floor to the trailer for a body that may need to be removed occasionally?
I would prefer not to drill holes in the trailer frame.

I am thinking bolts through the floor and a metal bar fastened under the trailer frame.

Any other ideas?
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Re: Fastening the floor to the trailer so it can be removed

Postby KennethW » Thu Apr 21, 2016 9:32 pm

How about using the wedges from a pound apart bed frame?
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Re: Fastening the floor to the trailer so it can be removed

Postby skyl4rk » Fri Apr 22, 2016 6:51 am

I am not sure what wedges from a pound apart bed frame are?

I will have three 2x4s sitting fore and aft on each of three trailer frame pieces, which are also fore and aft. The 2x4s will extend forward of the triangle area of the boat trailer frame. A plywood floor will be on top of the 2x4s. There is some additional framing under the floor but only the three 2x4s are touching the frame.
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Re: Fastening the floor to the trailer so it can be removed

Postby KCStudly » Fri Apr 22, 2016 7:23 am

Pictures would really help. :)
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Re: Fastening the floor to the trailer so it can be removed

Postby JaggedEdges » Fri Apr 22, 2016 11:46 am

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Re: Fastening the floor to the trailer so it can be removed

Postby azgreg » Fri Apr 22, 2016 1:51 pm

skyl4rk wrote:What is a good way to clamp or fasten the floor to the trailer for a body that may need to be removed occasionally?
I would prefer not to drill holes in the trailer frame.

I am thinking bolts through the floor and a metal bar fastened under the trailer frame.

Any other ideas?

Are you adverse to welding brackets to the frame?
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Re: Fastening the floor to the trailer so it can be removed

Postby KennethW » Fri Apr 22, 2016 2:47 pm

Angled brackets and bolt thru the stake pockets? :thinking:
One maybe able to use pins with clips to make it wrench free.
That would hold it in place but not down tight.
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Re: Fastening the floor to the trailer so it can be removed

Postby KCStudly » Fri Apr 22, 2016 3:20 pm

Draw latches or turn buckles into lifting eyes?

Why not add fastener holes? Depending on the frame section a suitable mechanical joint should be conceivable. Yes, don't just drill holes willy-nilly, but I'm sure something suitable could be designed.
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Re: Fastening the floor to the trailer so it can be removed

Postby JaggedEdges » Sat Apr 23, 2016 8:08 am

A general idea for that kind of setup, make the coach frame overhang the trailer frame a few inches at back, and fit leveling jacks to the coach, not the trailer. Then you can just put the jacks down, slide it off nearly all the way, catch the front on blocks or jacks and pull out. If you need a protruding bumper at the back though, it might need to be bolt on, to achieve that.
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Re: Fastening the floor to the trailer so it can be removed

Postby QueticoBill » Sat Nov 05, 2016 2:26 pm

I'm late to this but iIf you can find a place to fit a few coffin locks, they seem ideal. One quick turn and unlocked, and nothing protruding if set into wall, etc.

http://www.rosebrand.com/product1674/Coffin-Lock.aspx
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Re: Fastening the floor to the trailer so it can be removed

Postby Breytie » Mon Nov 07, 2016 9:29 am

Some sort of locating pins, guides or brackets on or inside each corner will help line everything up each time you mate them.

If the locating thingymajigs are strong enough to resist the horizontal forces when accelerating, braking and turning, you do not need all that much hold down strength to keep the body and frame together when bouncing over and through holes and bumps.
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Re: Fastening the floor to the trailer so it can be removed

Postby KCStudly » Mon Nov 07, 2016 11:56 am

The opposite is also true; if you use draw down latches and pull the cabin down fairly snuggly, the friction that develops between the cabin and deck will be enough to keep the load from sliding around... and there are no pins to try and line up while loading.

This is why a lot of heavy flat beds have wooden decks, friction.
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Re: Fastening the floor to the trailer so it can be removed

Postby Tomterrific » Tue Nov 08, 2016 9:37 am

I thought about a removable box also. In my design I had a plywood trailer floor as well as a plywood camper floor. Both floors would be flat so the camper could be positioned on top of the trailer, a sliding install.

Securing is one or a multiple of many ways. Easy to think of bolts until lining up the holes becomes an impossible chore. Still, bolts are full proof! To help with alignment I thought perimeter boards around three sides of the trailer floor would direct the camper to a correct position and also hold it in place better during travel. Heavy latches, bolts, even a couple of heavy ratcheting tie downs over the top. The tie downs can be removed once the trailer is parked.
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Re: Fastening the floor to the trailer so it can be removed

Postby Andrew Herrick » Wed Nov 16, 2016 1:23 pm

If you only need to remove it occasionally, a couple of Grade 5 3/8-in carriage bolts would to the trick and if properly torqued would have virtually NO effect on the strength of the frame.

I like the ratcheting straps idea, too.

Just remember: Eventually, you're going to run over a skunk or hit a pothole or swerve to avoid a rear-end collision - and that body had better stay on! Whatever you use, remember that it's a safety-critical application, and safety is more important than convenience.

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Re: Fastening the floor to the trailer so it can be removed

Postby swoody126 » Wed Nov 16, 2016 5:49 pm

there is a product called BED BOLTS that could be used to secure a box to a wooden bed

the NUT portion of BED BOLTS is a 5/8" diameter bolt w/ a 3/8 threaded hole down the center

their original purpose is for having removable eye bolts in a pick up or trailer bed leaving the bed fully useable when the eye bolt is removed

in a pick up bed the head of the bolt is lower than the ridges in the metal bed

in a wooden floored trailer the head sucks down into the wood leaving a flush surface when the eye bolt is removed

http://www.bedbolts.com

simply drill a 5/8" hole thru the wooden bed and metal trailer frame, insert the BED BOLT, secure w/ the nut, flat & lock washers and you have a good threaded 3/8" recepticle for thru bolting the camper box to the trailer frame

btw, TRACTOR SUPPLY carries a similar product using a 3/8 bolt

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produc ... -pack-of-2

and a heavier 1/2" bolt unit

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produc ... -pack-of-2

they're all sold in pairs from $10 - $16/pair

hope this helps

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