Tongue Box Fit Problem, HELP!

[RunnerDuck]

Oh boy, I did it again. I've built this beautiful tongue box that fit perfectly to the front of my TD. The problem is it fit perfectly before I put on the aluminum roof skin and the diamond plate to protect the front.

The box is complete so rebuilding it is not an option.

Trimming the bottom back edge of the box is not an option because that curved back is 1/8" plywood and would expose the back plus I don't know how I'd dot it.

I don't think trimming the bottom of the front of the TD is an option because again I don't know how I'd do it and trimming above the frame would really be tricky.

Raising the front of the box makes it align pretty good, probably acceptable but I don't like the way it looks and making tapered spacers running from the front to the back on the frame could be tricky.

So I'm turning to the forum's once again for help. I'm sure I'm not the first person that has run into this problem. All suggestions would be appreciated and considered.

Here are some photos for you to ponder.

This is the problem:

tongue box problem 1.jpg (236.06 KiB) Viewed 1587 times

This is the 5/8" spacer:

tongue box problem 2.jpg (234.91 KiB) Viewed 1587 times

And this is the fit with the spacer in place. Not great but probably acceptable:

tongue box 3.jpg (218.26 KiB) Viewed 1587 times

Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions!

[noseoil]

Not sure it's a big deal. I don't think you want a tight fit, since the box will grind into the front if it isn't fastened to the 'drop with bolts.

I would vote for some diamond plate or just plain aluminum trim to act as a scribe molding. Make a cardboard template for both sides (scribe it to the front 'drop contour) & decide what width you need to make it look good (1", 1 1/2" or 2" wide, whatever). Fasten the trim to the tongue box with s/s screws & caulk & that's it. The tongue will flex a small amount on the road, so leave a small gap to keep things apart to prevent the edge from chewing into the front of the 'drop., unless you are planning on a rolled length of fender welt.

[tony.latham]

I'm with Tim. I think there needs to be some room in between like a pickup bed and the cab. I'd consider filling the gap with some soft weather seal.

Great looking box, by the way.

Tony

[yrock87]

I second the weather seal. or fender welt. either option will create a good looking seam that still allows flex and keeps the elements out. go with the thickness required to fill your gap.

[RunnerDuck]

Thanks for the suggestions, I certainly will consider them.

Since I had planned to "seal" the tongue box to the body I drilled a 1 1/2" hole in both to pass the wiring through.

tongue box 4.jpg (220.31 KiB) Viewed 1541 times

Now if there is a 3/4" + gap between the box and body and both are allowed to wiggle how can I seal the holes so I don't get any water into either the box or body.

My original plan was a nice bead of silicone around the holes since I'd anticipated almost no gap.

With diamond plate behind the box I think it's going to be hard to get a "bone dry" seal around the rear of the box.

Isn't it interesting how, when building a TD, one thing, spelled "challenge", leads to another?

[yrock87]

You can get hollow core weather seal at 1/2 and 3/4 thicknesses. "D" type is common and readily available. That can be used to seal the two together and then independently seal the wire hole with a caulking at both holes.

[Philip]

I would use a seal like stated above. This looks like it would work good.

https://www.zoro.com/trim-lok-inc-trim- ... /G5120062/

[RunnerDuck]

I would use a seal like stated above. This looks like it would work good.

https://www.zoro.com/trim-lok-inc-trim- ... /G5120062/

Thanks but I don't think this would work, I don't have anything to clip it to. I believe I need an adhesive backed seal.

[RunnerDuck]

You can get hollow core weather seal at 1/2 and 3/4 thicknesses. "D" type is common and readily available. That can be used to seal the two together and then independently seal the wire hole with a caulking at both holes.

Is this what you're talking about?

seal.jpg (11.51 KiB) Viewed 1499 times

That might just work. I'm thinking about using seal tape, like goes under the roof edging , doubled up for around the holes and smash it down really good.

[noseoil]

Since you have the hole drilled for the cables already, use a "rain tight" plastic EMT type of connector from a home supply electrical parts shelf. You just need to bore out the holes (both at one time, please with things aligned & in place), set the box, fasten & then fasten the coupling(s?) together with some sealant. Osi Quad if it might have to come apart later, or silicone if you think it's never going to leak or come apart again. The problem with silicone is it can't be re-done later & make a good seal.

The scribe mold can be set with weather-stripping or a metal trim/foam section. Look at pages 19-21
http://www.rockwellamerican.com/sites/d ... index.html

[yrock87]

You can get hollow core weather seal at 1/2 and 3/4 thicknesses. "D" type is common and readily available. That can be used to seal the two together and then independently seal the wire hole with a caulking at both holes.

Is this what you're talking about?

seal.jpg

That might just work. I'm thinking about using seal tape, like goes under the roof edging , doubled up for around the holes and smash it down really good.

That is exactly what I meant. I picked up a 20ft length on Amazon for a reasonable price. It the tape backing was quality 3M and it stuck to epoxy very well

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Keith]

Before you make a ridgid connection between your trailer and box you should see how much your tongue is going to flex. Have someone bounce up and down on the bed or on the tongue and watch your gap. I think your going to find that you are going to need a bigger gap and a flexible connection for the wiring.

Keith