Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Guys,

I have seen many different styles, Makes and Models. I am debating whether I need to insulate the walls. I am using 3/4" plywood on the walls. I live in Missouri and plan to camp most of the year with the winter months not so much if not at all. I see many manufactures who do not, so it got me to thinking. Is this mainly to keep down on condensation?

I'm a newb, so please be kind.

Cheers

Larry

Insulation will reduce condensation but it also helps in the heat of summer. A plywood box gets hot in the sun!

For the time and money it takes, I believe you'll be glad you did.

Good Luck!

If you will be camping in park like settings with other people close by, or along travel routes with traffic, insulation will also act as a sound deadener.

on top of what has already been said, using foam as a structural member allows you to use thinner plywood, making a wall that is lighter at a given strength than ply alone.

yrock87 wrote:on top of what has already been said, using foam as a structural member allows you to use thinner plywood, making a wall that is lighter at a given strength than ply alone.

With ply on both sides, or perhaps another skin like pmf. Stressed skin panels imply stress in both skins. You probably know that but seemed odd alone.

QueticoBill wrote:

yrock87 wrote:on top of what has already been said, using foam as a structural member allows you to use thinner plywood, making a wall that is lighter at a given strength than ply alone.

With ply on both sides, or perhaps another skin like pmf. Stressed skin panels imply stress in both skins. You probably know that but seemed odd alone.

you are right of course. I should have specified but doubt most on this forum would leave the foam entirely uncovered on the inside or outside, so I didn't mention it. plus I would argue that the foam itself can act as a "relatively weak" skin. bonding a sheet of foam to a single sheet of ply will be stronger than either alone, although significantly less strong than adding a second sheet of ply to create a full torsion box.

You are likely right. I'm too new to this bulletin board to know if this kind of caution is warranted. And partly I'm as fascinated with stressed skin design today as I was when studying it in grad school 50+ years ago.

Thanks everyone,

A lot of good points, I believe I'll insulate. Sound deadening, really good point and better for the AC during the summer.

Cheers everyone

Larry

If you don't want to finagle with composite walls, just insulate the roof and put curtains over your doors and windows. Those are the two most effective ways to insulate your teardrop. Insulating your walls is less effective; insulating your floor less effective still (assuming you have a foam mattress).

As for the A/C ... If you use a 5000 BTU unit, you'll find you'll have to open windows/vents while the A/C is running to prevent condensation. So you'll always be cycling air in and out of the camper, which means insulation isn't as effective as you might think.

The simplest way to insulate is to glue foam or carpet to the inside of the teardrop after it is built. THe CLC 1/4" plywood stitch and glue teardrop kit insulates this way. they glue foam similar to what you find in cheap roll up camping mattresses to the inside wall to get rid of the drum like noise inside, and to prevent condensation. THey claim it works in their video.
An older idea is to buy pile carpet remnants and glue them to the inside walls. The carpet will absorb some moisture, but should avoid any major condensation problems. During the day, with the windows fully open (if they are large enough) the moisture will evaporate from the carpeting.
Either one will quiet the inside, and provide relief from solar gain, or heat loss.

I camp mostly in the winter. I've found that frost build up is always where the walls are only wood. Where there is insulation behind my wall skin, no frost builds up at all.

Art