RG, I WILL ATTEMPT TO ANSWER YOUR Q'S IN ALL BLOCK CAPS TO SEPARATE YOUR WORDS & MINE
beginning of quote="RubberGypsy" Hi - I'm doing a re-build. While tearing off the roof I discovered that this Tear has 2 pieces of the top flooting roof.
THIS METHOD OF TOPPING IS NOT UNCOMMON, IMHO
WE USE IT FOR PANELS OF BOATS THAT ARE TOO LONG FOR ANY READILY AVAILABLE PLYWOOD WE JUST KEEP THE BLOCKS ON THE INSIDE
SOME READING FOR YOU(KNOT KNOWING YOUR TOOL AVAILABILITY AND SKILL LEVEL I AM INCLUDING MORE THAN ONE OPTION W/ PICS):http://www.amateurboatbuilding.com/arti ... y/ply.htmlhttp://www.oneoceankayaks.com/stitchglu ... rfjig2.htm
Obviously, this is not ideal but, I thought I'd ask. How would you tackle this? Add another ply maybe and just cover over it?
Trash it and go w/ something else?
Originally it was joined w/a glued and screwed board on the top. Also, no edge trim (place of purchase recommendations?)
"BUTT BLOCK" JOINTS ARE COMMON AND VIABLE WHEN DONE CORRECTLY AND KEPT PAINTED FOR PROTECTION FROM THE ELEMENTS
"DWX" EPOXY FROM "DUCKWORKS" IS WAY LESS TOXIC AND HAS "UV" INHIBITORS BUILT INTO THE FORMULA WHICH WOULD BE A GOOD PRODUCT FOR YOUR PROJECThttp://www.duckworksbbs.com/supplies/ep ... /index.htm
ROOFING A TEARDROP AND INSTALLING A BOTTOM ON A BOAT HAVE VIRTUALLY THE SAME GOAL, KEEPING THE WATER OUT
LACK OF EDGE PROTECTION IS A PRIMARY SOURCE OF ROT/FAILURE(DUH!)
EPOXY COATING OF EDGES HELPS A LOTALL AFFECTED WOOD NEEDS TO BE REMOVED
IF YOU WANT TO DO IT CORRECTLY
ONCE THE AFFECTED STRUCTURAL WOOD HAS BEEN DEALT WITH, EXCISED/REPLACED OR SUBSTANTIALLY PATCHED, RE-ROOFING W/ 2 LAYERS OF EXTERIOR GRADE OR PREFERABLY MARINE PLY WHERE YOU STAGGER THE JOINTS AND FULLY GLUE THE LAMINATION. USING SCREWS MAY NOT BE NECESSARY IF YOU GET YOUR LAYERS PROPERLY BONDED AND ALL EDGES N JOINTS PROPERLY SEALED
ANYWHERE YOU HAVE PLYWOOD EDGES EXPOSED TO THE ELEMENTS YOU ARE INVITING FAILURE
Here's my build thread:viewtopic.php?f=50&t=67838
And a link to my google pics:https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B18se ... 2pfZXBqTnM
THESE PICS INDICATE WATER INTRUSION AND THE AFFECTED WOOD NEEDS TO BE ELIMINATED, BEST, OR AT LEAST STABILIZED, SO-SO RESULTS
USING METALIC FASTENERS IN PLYWOOD EDGE GRAIN ISN'T SOUND PRACTICE
CONSIDER ADDING CLEATS INSIDE IF YOU WANT A SIMPLE OUTSIDE CORNER OR ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE WALLS TO PROVIDE A LIP EFFECT WHICH MAY GIVE THE EDGES OF THE WALLS BETTER PROTECTION
I've considered skinning the thing but,
ONCE THE STRUCTURAL DAMAGE HAS BEEN REPAIRED SKINNING OR FIBERGLASSING MIGHT SUIT YOUR TASTES
1. I want to run new wires
2. Add insulation
3. Wanna clean any mold
1, 2 & 3 ARE ALL EASILY ACCOMPLISHED DURING THE STRUCTURAL REPAIR STAGE
4. I don't trust the original contstruction
and as you can see from the pics, I really need to get in there and check this out.
KEEP DIGGING UNTIL YOU PASS ANY AFFECTED WOOD
THEN START THE REPAIRS
Thank for any comments!!
Andy, end quote
GOOD LUCK W/ YOUR QUEST