Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

It looks like it's been a while since there was a discussion about cutting aluminum trim. I've attempted to attach a sketch of how I built a sandwich of three $1.50 furring strips to cut four 1/2 inch angles to 1/2 inch by 1/4 inch on the table saw.

I set it up so the furring strips are longer on each end than the stock aluminum that I want to cut, so the blade is 'trained' by the wood before it encounters the aluminum and stays in plane once the stock leaves contact with the blade.

The 'bulkiness' of the set up helps with grip and kick-back avoidance, fingers are never near the blade or the active cut.

Old news? Any contrary advice or warnings?

What type of blade are you using?

I am reading that sketch as you set the blade height to just cut through the furring strip and the trim. In other words, the sides with the screw heads ride the table and the sides ride your fence? How long are those cuts? because a trapped blade like that can build up heat since the cut wood will tend to want to warp back in and touch the blade. Have you noticed any smoke or blade warping? Have you considered using a finger board in front of the blade to keep good solid pressure on the fence?

When I do cuts like this I still like to use a push handle. Like https://www.woodcraft.com/products/micro-jig-grr-rip-block-model-gb-1. Just one more layer of protection for my digits.

Thanks for replying, wasn't sure about the uploaded sketch working.

I'm just using a standard finish blade. I had bought a fancy new carbide finish blade thinking I'd sacrifice it, but gave my old one a try and it did so well I decided to sacrifice it, but it's held up great through about 40 feet of ripping.

You're right about the orientation, screw heads up and down, aluminum in contact with fence. I meant to note on the sketch that it seems to be important to set the blade height such that the cutting surfaces of the blade teeth fully penetrate the aluminum, dig all the way into the wood. Had set it too low on one run and it took an inordinate amount of filing to get the edge 'safe'. Cranked it up a notch on the next pass and the edge came out sparkling.

The longest cuts I've made this way are 7 feet, trim to surround the doors of the camper I'm building. No smoke, blade not hot to the touch. Yes on pusher and finger board. The mass of the '4 pack' sandwich, relative to the amount of cutting being done, really takes the fear out of approaching the saw with otherwise fickle and jumpy aluminum trim.

spraying the blade with wd40 will help cutting aluminum tremendously !

Carbide blade with high tooth count and WD40. I cut 1/2" and 1" aluminum bars with my miter saw regularly this way.

Carbide blade isnt a requirement but will last a lot longer. Furring strips are rather thin amd soft so wd40 and a decent blade is enough. Especially when your using wood to guide things.

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