Sandwich Skeleton Questions aka Getting Meat Off the Bones.

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Re: Sandwich Skeleton Questions aka Getting Meat Off the Bon

Postby eodmike » Wed Mar 07, 2018 11:45 am

I think the "scary" part for me isn't the application of the fiberglass. Its the sanding. It seems tedious and sounds like a lot of the time on the kit is sanding and reapplying varnish? Friz would have to chime in since he built it but it seems like you get the shape done really quick then spend tons of time sanding and painting varnish on.

I don't know I have the patience for that.
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Re: Sandwich Skeleton Questions aka Getting Meat Off the Bon

Postby tony.latham » Wed Mar 07, 2018 11:53 am

eodmike wrote:I think the "scary" part for me isn't the application of the fiberglass. Its the sanding. It seems tedious and sounds like a lot of the time on the kit is sanding and reapplying varnish? Friz would have to chime in since he built it but it seems like you get the shape done really quick then spend tons of time sanding and painting varnish on.

I don't know I have the patience for that.


I built a cedar strip canoe years ago. After the fiberglass/epoxy was cured, I applied a high-quality marine varnish without any sanding. I put a coat of varnish on it about every five years and it's in fine shape.

I'm considering my fourth teardrop build, unlike the first three that were aluminum clad, this one will be fiberglassed and covered with Monstaliner.

:thumbsup:

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Re: Sandwich Skeleton Questions aka Getting Meat Off the Bon

Postby swoody126 » Wed Mar 07, 2018 4:05 pm

YES SMALL BATCHES

and use auto body shop/Bondo squeegies

BE FRUGAL don't slather

once the initial lay-up has set then you can do nice thin hot coats to fill the weave

sw
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Re: Sandwich Skeleton Questions aka Getting Meat Off the Bon

Postby JeepinPete » Fri Mar 09, 2018 9:51 am

You can avoid 90% of the sanding by using cabinet scrappers instead.

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Re: Sandwich Skeleton Questions aka Getting Meat Off the Bon

Postby Esteban » Fri Mar 09, 2018 5:53 pm

JeepinPete wrote:You can avoid 90% of the sanding by using cabinet scrappers instead.

Pete

Reducing your time spent sanding would be helpful. Here's a video showing how a card scraper works on epoxy




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Re: Sandwich Skeleton Questions aka Getting Meat Off the Bon

Postby NorthEGPhoto » Wed Apr 25, 2018 8:33 am

Kind of off topic but I wondered, I see most people seem to use plywood for their skeleton, but i've been looking at OSB for my build, since I'll be finishing the outside with 1/4" plywood anyhow. It shouldn't be exposed to the outside.

Any problems using it? it is quite a bit cheaper and AFAIK every bit as strong.
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Re: Sandwich Skeleton Questions aka Getting Meat Off the Bon

Postby tony.latham » Wed Apr 25, 2018 10:34 am

NorthEGPhoto wrote:Kind of off topic but I wondered, I see most people seem to use plywood for their skeleton but i've been looking at OSB for my build, since I'll be finishing the outside with 1/4" plywood anyhow. It shouldn't be exposed to the outside.

Any problems using it? it is quite a bit cheaper and AFAIK every bit as strong.


It's my belief ––some will disagree–– but OSB is a poor choice for anything in a camper. If it is exposed to any moisture, it'll swell and never recover. There's a reason that the thank-you-ma'am-RV industry uses the stuff: It's cheap and will generally make it through the two-year guarantee.

Even if you could ensure that zero moisture enters your wall in the course of the campers lifetime, the adhesive used on OSB is a challenge to get a lot of glues to adhere to, unlike bare wood.

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Re: Sandwich Skeleton Questions aka Getting Meat Off the Bon

Postby swoody126 » Wed Apr 25, 2018 1:40 pm

DITTO Tony's feelings STRONGLY

and the stuff is measurably heavier and doesn't hold fasteners worth a D..n!!!

your windows might hold well enough BUTT your door(s) and hatch lid will IMHO be in double and 1/2 jeopardy :-O

WHEN those hinged appendages wonkify the screw holes the water damage begins w/ a soggy bang :x

just this ole geezer's 2¢ worth

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Re: Sandwich Skeleton Questions aka Getting Meat Off the Bon

Postby Zomby Woof » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:09 pm

OSB also comes with a weight penalty, which may or may not make a difference based on what you're building.

I can get a fair bit of OSB for free but after looking into it I decided to pay the extra bucks and go with plywood - but now I'm thinking foam :o

Not sure where you are in Ontario but it is possible to get better quality plywood for less money than the box stores. Locally we have http://www.bcwlumberandplywood.com/
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Re: Sandwich Skeleton Questions aka Getting Meat Off the Bon

Postby noseoil » Thu Apr 26, 2018 8:00 am

3/4" plywood for walls is ok if it's thoroughly skeletonized. You will need a light, strong framework to be under the 1,000# rolling weight you need. That's the frame & panels you need to build with & a skeletonized floor system as well.

3/4" ply for cabinets is way overkill, 1/2" with thinner face frames (1/2" solid) or no face frames at all is better. Use the side-walls of the build for your outside cabinet panels. Just make sure you have a web at each fastening point (lights, hinges, panels, bulkheads, cabinets, etc.)

.040" aluminum is ok for durability, just remember it's about .57# per square foot, or on a 5X8 build it will add about 75# with moldings & fasteners.

A good foam mattress will be about 50# so think weight here also. It's something you need to be comfortable, so choose wisely.

My build was too heavy once I added so much "extra" stuff to it (solar, group 27 battery, 110v, stereo & speakers, TV, sound bar, bluray player....) The frame was over 500#, so that was bad to begin with, but it's still solid as the day it was built. 5X9X4' tall @ 1660#... Just sayin' be careful!
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