General questions about my potential build

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General questions about my potential build

Postby dsotto » Sat Mar 17, 2018 11:07 am

Hi there!
I've done hours and hours of research and watched tons of construction videos and want to see if my potential plan is doable. Possibly get some feedback.
First, a kenskill type profile with a slightly flatter top (not as flat as benroy--not the biggest fan-- in hopes of putting in a moonlight if it's rated 5 or less in difficulty on a scale of 1-10)
For the trailer I'm going to do the HF 4x8. Problem is since we do woodworking, the mods for the trailer are completely foreign to me. Do I have to trim everything down? I understand shifting the axle back but can I get by without chopping off all the beams? Of if anyone has a good tutorial for that, let me know! The ones I found weren't dumbed down enough for me. :D Also, I just don't want to do it if I don't have to.

I have MCS (multiple chemical sensitivity from my job so I'm really sensitive to formaldehyde :thumbdown: ) That being said I plan on doing a stick frame from 1x2,1x4 common wood sandwiched between two 1/4" purebond birch 4x8' sheets (less formaldehyde than traditional ply) the interior of that will be coated in 5 layers shellac (my absolute fave for finish on all our woodworking projects plus it doesn't give off fumes so I won't die inside)
Insulation will be the Bonded Logic radiant barrier (3/8" 2 layers? If I'm using 1" boards will that be enough? There would be a slight gap between the sandwich) A natural denim insulation. Probably not as great as the foam stuff, but natural trumps the potential loss in effectivity. I thought about doing uninsulated but it's so darn hot in Texas that I don't want my interior walls to sweat at night as shellac doesn't hold up well to extra moisture.
Brother in law is an electrician so will help us wire for lights, mini fridge.. no sink. And gas stove.

Basically trying to work around MCS is a nightmare but I'm determined to make it work. I haven't quite figured out how to do the ceiling but figured I'd worry about it later. Probably aluminum as the final layer and a marine boat hull paint in Hunter green on the outside.

Oh and custom monster doors (I want huge doors because I might screen it in to sleep with doors open on nice nights.) From Challenger door I believe. Will contact them soon.

Seem solid for a first time go? Budgeting 2500-3000. Going to continue reading plans and all the construction tips. Thank you!
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Re: General questions about my potential build

Postby tony.latham » Sat Mar 17, 2018 12:07 pm

Hello... I can hear your brain churning. That's good.

My only headscratcher is the insulation. I would hope that moisture never enters a sandwiched wall but a cotton based material would exacerbate the problem. And hard foam adds structural integrity in sandwiched walls and ceilings. Just a thought.

:thinking:

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Re: General questions about my potential build

Postby dsotto » Sat Mar 17, 2018 12:17 pm

tony.latham wrote:Hello... I can hear your brain churning. That's good.

My only headscratcher is the insulation. I would hope that moisture never enters a sandwiched wall but a cotton based material would exacerbate the problem. And hard foam adds structural integrity in sandwiched walls and ceilings. Just a thought.

:thinking:

Tony
Awesome thanks! I'm still thinking about the insulation part. Not sure what I'm going to do .

I just called HF and they said due to DOT upgraded standards trailers are discontinued indefinitely at this moment. So not sure what to do now.

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Re: General questions about my potential build

Postby John61CT » Sat Mar 17, 2018 1:35 pm

Look at Thinsulate and rock (mineral) wool.

You don't want moisture to penetrate anything, but at least these don't rot and provide habitat/food for pests.
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Re: General questions about my potential build

Postby tony.latham » Sat Mar 17, 2018 1:42 pm

I just called HF and they said due to DOT upgraded standards trailers are discontinued indefinitely at this moment. So not sure what to do now.


A lot of folks use the Northern Tools trailers. You also might sniff out a local welder and ask how much. You'd end up with a trailer with a better axle and tires. I find a lot of the labor of building a trailer chassis is the wiring. You could do that part yourself.

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Re: General questions about my potential build

Postby dsotto » Sat Mar 17, 2018 2:14 pm

tony.latham wrote:
I just called HF and they said due to DOT upgraded standards trailers are discontinued indefinitely at this moment. So not sure what to do now.


A lot of folks use the Northern Tools trailers. You also might sniff out a local welder and ask how much. You'd end up with a trailer with a better axle and tires. I find a lot of the labor of building a trailer chassis is the wiring. You could do that part yourself.

Tony
We're headed by northern tools today. Was going to look at the 4x8 plus better tires. I thought about the welder option but neither my husband or I are comfortable with wiring of any sort and I feel like the kit will be easier for our first build.
If we get that 4x8 when we assemble the trailer, we should put the axle about 40" from rear, correct?

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Re: General questions about my potential build

Postby tony.latham » Sat Mar 17, 2018 2:19 pm

Yep, the 40/60 rule.

Just make sure you keep the fender location in mind when you're thinking door location.

Speaking of which, I find it much easier to build the cabin and then load it on the chassis. No sense working around the fenders and tongue. Especially when skinning.

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Re: General questions about my potential build

Postby dsotto » Sat Mar 17, 2018 3:15 pm

I love the profile on that one! I'm going to spend time tonight trying to figure out the radius business and draw out a profile

And that's an interesting way to do it.. haven't thought of it like that. With my luck I'll build it and then it won't fit on the trailer hahaha.
I like how this guy assembled .. I think this would work for what I'm trying to accomplish. I would do a more thorough stick frame before attaching though.
https://www.google.com/amp/www.instruct ... _page=true
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Re: General questions about my potential build

Postby tony.latham » Sat Mar 17, 2018 3:53 pm

dsotto wrote:I love the profile on that one! I'm going to spend time tonight trying to figure out the radius business and draw out a profile

And that's an interesting way to do it.. haven't thought of it like that. With my luck I'll build it and then it won't fit on the trailer hahaha.
I like how this guy assembled .. I think this would work for what I'm trying to accomplish. I would do a more thorough stick frame before attaching though.
https://www.google.com/amp/www.instruct ... _page=true


My bro-in-law designed that profile. It was for he and my sister. I argued against the rolled-in front and back. They lost 9" of floor space. In an 8' long 'drop, that's a mile.

During our eclipse campout, I gave him the 9" I cut off his floor.

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Re: General questions about my potential build

Postby dsotto » Sat Mar 17, 2018 3:58 pm

That's too funny!
What do you mean by rolled in front and back?
I was tempted to build a floor and a frame tonight just do get into the shop but I realized I don't know if I need to cut or not. Might just wait for trailer. Patience is not my strong point.

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Re: General questions about my potential build

Postby tony.latham » Sat Mar 17, 2018 6:42 pm

dsotto wrote:That's too funny!
What do you mean by rolled in front and back?
I was tempted to build a floor and a frame tonight just do get into the shop but I realized I don't know if I need to cut or not. Might just wait for trailer. Patience is not my strong point.

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If you look at the front of ours, it goes straight down like a Benroy.

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Look at the Grumman in the Design Resources at the top of the page: http://tnttt.com/Design_Library/The%20Grumman%202.htm

Easy to look at, but you lose some real estate with the curves coming back in. On my next build, I may bring the rear curve back in but if I do she may be a bit longer than 10' by a few inches.

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Re: General questions about my potential build

Postby dsotto » Thu Mar 22, 2018 11:43 am

tony.latham wrote:
dsotto wrote:That's too funny!
What do you mean by rolled in front and back?
I was tempted to build a floor and a frame tonight just do get into the shop but I realized I don't know if I need to cut or not. Might just wait for trailer. Patience is not my strong point.

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If you look at the front of ours, it goes straight down like a Benroy.

Image

Look at the Grumman in the Design Resources at the top of the page: http://tnttt.com/Design_Library/The%20Grumman%202.htm

Easy to look at, but you lose some real estate with the curves coming back in. On my next build, I may bring the rear curve back in but if I do she may be a bit longer than 10' by a few inches.

Tony


After more planning your design profile seems easier.
So I want to be able to comfortably fit two people.. decided to go 5x8. Our Jeep is a weenie and has a 1,000lb towing capacity. So far without gear (and crazy rough estimations) I'm looking at 700. I'm only going to use 1/2" for all cabinetry as well and decided to do a 1/2" floor over a 2x2 frame with my extra reflectix insulation glued and stapled in the open areas of the frame. Do you think subbing out my 3/4" for 1/2" on the floor will be okay? Really need to find some weight cutting tips!
Thanks so much for your help Tony!
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Re: General questions about my potential build

Postby tony.latham » Thu Mar 22, 2018 3:01 pm

1/2" plywood for the floor will be fine. Just put a piece of framing under where your butt will live.

I'm in the camp that believes if you need floor insulation in a teardrop, your mattress isn't thick enough. For those in the other camp, some folks have glued hard foam to the bottom of the floor and it does just fine exposed to the road.

On my next build, the floor will be framed with 1x4's and sheathed top and bottom with 1/4" subfloor ply. I'll put foam inside it but just to stiffen it up.

Building a tear is like life. Decisions. Lots of them.

:thumbsup:

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