Hatch Masters

[JohnF]

I posted earlier that I was fighting a spring-back problem. I received and installed this morning two draw latches (part #TC-341 from www.Reidsupply.com) and that solved the problem. The latches pulled in the bottom that was mis-matched by about 7/8-ths of an inch.

I was going to install some small ones anyway, but these 341 units (Austin Supply cat. page 571) are really beefy and probably worth the money.

John

[Miriam C.]

Hi all.
A little late getting in here but did anyone decide what to glue FRP to? I went shopping today and the 1/4 ply and 5.2 luan didn't seem very bendable. I am working alone so It would be nice to hide the upcoming boo boo's.
Miriam

[Gage]

Hi all.
A little late getting in here but did anyone decide what to glue FRP to? I went shopping today and the 1/4 ply and 5.2 luan didn't seem very bendable. I am working alone so It would be nice to hide the upcoming boo boo's.
Miriam

Your right. Why do you want 1/4" ply. Won't 1/8" be just as good and bend a lot easier? If not, them I'm in trouble, because with the exception of my sides, I used 1/8" every where else.

Have a good day.

[len19070]

Hi all.
A little late getting in here but did anyone decide what to glue FRP to? I went shopping today and the 1/4 ply and 5.2 luan didn't seem very bendable. I am working alone so It would be nice to hide the upcoming boo boo's.
Miriam

I use frp as an inside finish to my hatch, and the other side of it as a surface to laminate my aluminum to. frp has NO spring back. I use either formica contact cement or silicone as a glue. I don't cut the frp off at the end of the hatch ribs but extend it to the outside edge of the trailer. This gives a hatch a thickness of frp + .032 aluminum as a hatch edge. At that point any corner molding can be fassened to it. On the curve this is very thin & very strong.

Happy Trails

Len