mikeschn wrote:HVM,
That's a hatch after Dean's own heart... What better to go with an over built trailer than an overbuilt hatch... Sorry guys, I couldn't resist...
It may be heavy, but it's certainly not going to flex. But you'll need heavy duty hatch supports. I would definitely consider gas shocks, so you don't rupture a disc every time you try to open it.
Mike...
Hardin Valley Magic wrote:O.k. Dean here it is over build of the week.
I used 14 thats right 14 pieces 3/4 thick doubled up with 2x2's between them with a 2x2 piece at the top and a solid 2x2 at the bottom.
No spring back just heavier made than it shoulda been.
Yep that's what happens when there is nothing to hold the shape. The ply is always going to want to straighten out.JohnF wrote:I built my Cubby's hatch with horizontal spars and thought I had it perfectly fitted to the frame...but I now have spring back. <snip>.
Spring back is only common with those who don't listen and insist on building thier hatches with only horizontal spars. The way I built my (but not rule) 5'wide and 4'high hatch with a constant curve in it, was basicly the frame work in the tear. Then I took it to the work bench (after applying about 5 or 6 screws to hold the exterior skin to the frame) and applied all the remaining screws. That first skin was only a temp skin that was on the tear for two years. The current skin is glued with some alum twist nails. When it was finished on the work bench, I took and just placed it where it should go and it fit perfectly just laying in place. So easly a hatch can be built with no problems or spring back.JohnF again wrote:Since spring back seems so darn common there must be some generally agreed-to method of getting out of a bad situation.
What do you recommend?
Hardin Valley Magic wrote:O.k. Dean here it is over build of the week.
I used 14 thats right 14 pieces 3/4 thick doubled up with 2x2's between them with a 2x2 piece at the top and a solid 2x2 at the bottom.
No spring back just heavier made than it shoulda been.
Dean in Eureka, CA wrote: <snip>
Jim,
I don't know if there is a set rule on clearance from sidewall to rib...
I'm still debating that one myself... I wanna put some snaps on the sides of the outer ribs, so I can snap on side wall flaps when the hatch is open, but I need to think about the strike lengths on the latch too. I might run a dado and have the snaps reccessed, so I don't need to have as much clearance... Just haven't made up my mind on that one yet. I just know that putting them on the side of the rib would be a good place, because they wouldn't show when the hatch is closed.
Jim Marshall wrote:Thanks fellows, I really do appreciate your input. I just want to do it right the first time so I won't have to do it over.
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