Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

I've been doing a lot of research for building my first trailer. I've seen the skeleton method and framed method for insulating, but I am wondering what's the pros and cons of each?

I think this mainly depends on the skinning method you choose. For example my tear walls started as 4x10 sheets of 3/4" oak veneer. That made the decision to frame the walls, then use a 1/8" birch interior skin an easy one.

I've seen the skeleton method and framed method for insulating...

I guess I'm not quite understanding the "framed method" part of your question. I've built skeleton walls using both 1x 4s and plywood. Using plywood is much less labour intensive. Using "sticks" is a little cheaper.

If you look at this wall my wife is working on, you'll see lots of structural stuff that would be hard to add by some sort of framing. Everything in this skeleton is done for a reason and adds a hard point for something inside or outside the cabin.





Tony

p.s. In the long run, I chose not to attach the fenders to the walls since this 'drop was built to boondock.

Tony, let's see if I have your preferred wall framing correct: 1/4-inch ply over a 3/4-inch "skelatized" interior wall frame, interstices filled with 3/4 rigid foam insulation, inside and outside skins bonded to frame with PL Premium? Just look at all those beautiful clamps ...

tony.latham wrote:

I've seen the skeleton method and framed method for insulating...

I guess I'm not quite understanding the "framed method" part of your question. I've built skeleton walls using both 1x 4s and plywood. Using plywood is much less labour intensive. Using "sticks" is a little cheaper.

If you look at this wall my wife is working on, you'll see lots of structural stuff that would be hard to add by some sort of framing. Everything in this skeleton is done for a reason and adds a hard point for something inside or outside the cabin.





Tony

p.s. In the long run, I chose not to attach the fenders to the walls since this 'drop was built to boondock.

Thanks, Tony

By framed I do mean "sticks" as you put it. IE stud framing. Would a plywood skeleton be just as insulated or less insulated as 1X4 with the 1x4 turned sideways? I plan on using the trailer in around 30* weather if not a little colder.

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This is what he meant by using 1X4's. you cut them to build the Skelton instead of cutting it out of plywood. Lots of angle cuts for the curves. I went this way because I want 1" thick walls for insolation. And the other think I can't find 3/4" rigid foam.

You don't see many builds the way you are thinking like you would build a stud wall with top and bottom plate on a teardrop with a rounded roof. The reason is what would be the top plate would need to be curved and I'm not sure how to do that easy.

If you build something like a weekender, it would be easier to build using a stub method.

Todd

KTM_Guy wrote:

This is what he meant by using 1X4's. you cut them to build the Skelton instead of cutting it out of plywood. Lots of angle cuts for the curves. I went this way because I want 1" thick walls for insolation. And the other think I can't find 3/4" rigid foam.

You don't see many builds the way you are thinking like you would build a stud wall with top and bottom plate on a teardrop with a rounded roof. The reason is what would be the top plate would need to be curved and I'm not sure how to do that easy.

If you build something like a weekender, it would be easier to build using a stub method.

Todd

Thanks Todd,

My trailer is going to be more of a box style and not tear drop style. It will have a flat roof with it angled in front. Don't know what style that will be called.

Daryl

Daryl, if weight is not an issue, you could use 2X3 studs, but that eats into interior space, although adding room for thicker insulation.

I like the cutting method for plywood skeleton walls. All of those little blocks are too much work for me, just sayin'

Billinthedesert wrote:Tony, let's see if I have your preferred wall framing correct: 1/4-inch ply over a 3/4-inch "skelatized" interior wall frame, interstices filled with 3/4 rigid foam insulation, inside and outside skins bonded to frame with PL Premium? Just look at all those beautiful clamps ...

Exactly. When you're shopping for 1/4" ply, see if they've got underlayment ply. The stuff I get here in the middle of Idaho is cheaper and much better than 1/4" AC ply.

Tony

Would a plywood skeleton be just as insulated or less insulated as 1X4 with the 1x4 turned sideways?

Either way, the voids will have 3/4" of hard foam insulation.

You should be snug as a bug.



We use an inexpensive 12V electric blanket to preheat our beds on those chilly nights.

Tony

Click on the links and this failure gets money, and your computer gets a virus. Except he may not get the money, since his country just got frozen out of the world's banking systems.



Tom

The skeleton method cut from a sheet of ply has no joints, thus no movement at intersection so in theory it's more rigid, ply ply is more stable then dimensional lumber.
I think if your only going for a 2/3 season camper thats fine.
Stick framing is going to allow for twice the insulation if you want to go 4 season.
That's not saying you couldn't double up a skeleton frame or prep dimension wider to increases wall thinkness for more insulation.
The argument for the light weight and structural stability and strength of torsion box construction could be made, but I think that's over analyzing a small wooden camp trailer.

For me it comes down to season and design. Either method is more then strong enough for what we are building, you just need to take wind load and vibration into consideration in your construction.

I'm doing stick framed, my design is going to be a bit of design build so it'll be easy to make any framing changes, plus I'm in residential const. and have already scavenged more than enough 2x's from work for my framing needs.

tony.latham wrote:

p.s. In the long run, I chose not to attach the fenders to the walls since this 'drop was built to boondock.

I know this is an old post but what did you mean by "boondock"?

azgreg wrote:

tony.latham wrote:

p.s. In the long run, I chose not to attach the fenders to the walls since this 'drop was built to boondock.

I know this is an old post but what did you mean by "boondock"?

Here in Oz we'd say "go bush".
i.e. depart from the pavement of the Queen's highways and travel dirt roads, bush tracks, creek beds, etc.
At which point it's better if a boondocking trailer doesn't have its fenders bolted through the walls of the cabin, so when you sideswipe a tree, or rock, or a roo, deer, emu, donkey, camel or any of the other myriad species of suicidal wildlife we have, you may get away with just damaging the fender.