Undercoating and Wood Weights…Questions and Answers

[Miriam C.]

This is an old thread...but it pertains to what I'm getting ready to do. I was going to oil base prime and paint my floor (I mean a house sees more sun and rain than a trailer bottom and it lasts, but all seem to use this Fibered Roof Coating. Seems messy but I guess if it's the voice of the masses...
1.) Are the fumes dangerous... it's winter here in KS, the furnace in the shop is on - I'd prefer things don't go BOOM.

Most fumes go boom. You should have ventilation for your own protection. Try keeping the black goo in the house to warm it up. Turn off the heater and vent the room.

2.) Some say trowel it on, others say brush it on - if it can be brushed that's what I'd like to do - did any heat it up before you put it on to help "liquefy it" - does it penetrate at all or just coat?

This is an asphalt emulsion ---never heat. It penetrates some. The warmer it is the more it will penetrate. I put mine on with a window cleaner from Dollar Tree.

3.) Does the floor need any "pre-treat" or just put it right on the bare wood and go.

Clean and go!

4.) At 60 degrees (controlled heat), no humidity will it be dry in 24 hours or am I going to be down for a week?

It doesn't dry it cures. It will not be dry but I put mine on the trailer anyway and it stuck. You really need to get it on right or touch up the black goo.

You can use paint. It won't hurt a thing but your pocket book.

[Keith B]

Thanks for the tips... the black glue probably wont work for me then.. I can't put this stuff on outside, nor turn off the shop heat... at 28 degrees and it'll get down to 40 in the shop without heat, it just wont cure properly I'd bet. Luckily I have some oil based primer and some polypaint (like they use on painted patios, etc.) so my pocket book wont be hurt to bad - and I wont have an issue w/ fumes. I used water proof glue (F26) to glue the plywood down and also used it as "caulking" between the bottom on the plywood and stringer joints so it's all "suface" I'm protecting, plus there will be 1.5" rigid pink foam inserted. I do not have a trailer built to put it on right away...the TD is being built in the shop free-standing, then I'll set the whole unit on the trailer..after I get both built...now the trailer...THAT will be the biggest dent in the pocket book , but OH HOW SWEET THE REWARD WILL BE

[BrwBier]

I don't personally thing roof coating is the way to go. I think paint and auto undercoating in a spray can is a better way to go. I painted all sides of all wood that has to do with the bottom side of my tear. Extra coats on edges. When the weather is better I will spray the bottom to seal it to the metal frame.
If I was going to use the roof coating, it should say on the can something about ventilation. I have never looked but maybe some are not petroleum based. I would warm the product in a pail of hot water, the softer it is the easier it will be to put on. I don't think it's a bad way, just more work than needed. Also with a spray product touch up in the future, if needed, will be easier.
Brwbier