Undercoating and Wood Weights…Questions and Answers

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Postby asianflava » Fri Feb 17, 2006 2:45 pm

This is what I used:
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Postby Ira » Fri Feb 17, 2006 4:15 pm

asianflava wrote:This is what I used:
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Ahhhhh...I miss that can.

Just looking at it makes me want to build ANOTHER one.

NOT!!!

And Dale, it goes on fine with a regular brush. It's real easy to work with.
Here we go again!
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Postby critter » Fri Feb 17, 2006 4:31 pm

hey all,
does that stuff get hard when its dry or does it just tutn into goo an how long?
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Postby cracker39 » Fri Feb 17, 2006 5:03 pm

That's one of the cans I saw at HD, and the one I will get soon. Pleae answer Ira's question, because I also want to know the answer.
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Postby asianflava » Fri Feb 17, 2006 5:22 pm

It doesn't really get "Hard" when it drys, it just isn't sticky. If you left something on it it would probably get stuck after a couple days.

It's drying time depends on how thick it is applied. I brushed it on and in some places it took a few extra days. Most of it probably took around 5 days to a week.
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Postby mikeschn » Fri Feb 17, 2006 5:32 pm

Ira,

I think I am going to send you a can of roof coating. :rofl:

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Postby cracker39 » Fri Feb 17, 2006 5:39 pm

asianflava wrote:It doesn't really get "Hard" when it drys, it just isn't sticky. If you left something on it it would probably get stuck after a couple days.

It's drying time depends on how thick it is applied. I brushed it on and in some places it took a few extra days. Most of it probably took around 5 days to a week.


It sounds like you could coat it and with some help, turn it over and mount it on the frame and stick you foam directly to it. It would also "seal" itself to the frame. If it doesn't ever get hard, would construction adhesive stick to it?
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Postby BrwBier » Fri Feb 17, 2006 10:50 pm

How about brush on truck bed liner. It's a little expensive, $35 or so but tough as anything.
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Postby Nitetimes » Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:44 am

BrwBier wrote:How about brush on truck bed liner. It's a little expensive, $35 or so but tough as anything.
Brwbier


I do believe that possibility has be mentioned in a couple of other threads, but I think the drawback is that the wood first has to be sealed and primed for it to adhere properly.
Rich


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Postby cracker39 » Mon Mar 06, 2006 1:55 pm

I put a coat of the Gardner roof coating on the bottom of the floor while off the frame. The idea of doing it from underneath didn't appeal to me. It's been on 24 hours, and most is not sticky, but there are a few spots where it was heavier that is bubbling up a little, because it is sitting in the sun. I suppose that it will eventually dry. I wanted to get the floor on today, but I guess I'll wait another day.

Since I am putting foam insulation underneath, I didn't think it necessary to put two coats of the roofing stuff on. I'll stick the foam on with foam board adhesive. Then for further sealing, I'll spray some Great Stuff aerosol foam in the corners and joints, and cut off any that expands too much. I'm using the foil backed foam too, so moisture shouldn't even make it to the roof coating underneath.
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Postby IndyTom » Mon Mar 06, 2006 5:33 pm

OK, Im cornfused :? I thought the roof coating went on last, after everything else was in place, the idea being that it cured kinda tough and rubbery as impact protection. I musta really misunderstood :?
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Postby cracker39 » Mon Mar 06, 2006 5:42 pm

I suppose lots of people do the coating last. I just don't like the idea of laying under the trailer on my back trying to apply that sticky, gooey, rubbery stuff which would be dripping all over me. I've had enough stuff stuck to me this week and have shaved off what was left of my hair to get it out. The roof coating is on my floor now, drying. I'll put the floor down tomorrow with poly sealant between the floor and the frame. Then, I'll crawl underneath and stick on the foam insulation and seal the edges and joints with spray foam. I think that will water proof it.
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Postby cracker39 » Mon Mar 06, 2006 5:44 pm

Addendum: There is nothing in my construction that involves getting under the floor once it's installed. That's why I am completing the floor installation before I start constructing on top of it.
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Postby ALAN GEDDES » Mon Mar 06, 2006 6:33 pm

I used that emulsion from Henry's on all mine. Found that it penetrates about 2 or 3 plys of the wood when dreilling a hole later on. I think that would make it pretty well waterproof. Have had some on the shop floor for a couple of years now and it wears well also.
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Postby Keith B » Fri Feb 09, 2007 11:41 am

This is an old thread...but it pertains to what I'm getting ready to do. I was going to oil base prime and paint my floor (I mean a house sees more sun and rain than a trailer bottom and it lasts, but all seem to use this Fibered Roof Coating. Seems messy but I guess if it's the voice of the masses...
1.) Are the fumes dangerous... it's winter here in KS, the furnace in the shop is on - I'd prefer things don't go BOOM.
2.) Some say trowel it on, others say brush it on - if it can be brushed that's what I'd like to do - did any heat it up before you put it on to help "liquify it" - does it penetrate at all or just coat?
3.) Does the floor need any "pre-treat" or just put it right on the bare wood and go.
4.) At 60 degrees (controlled heat), no humidity will it be dry in 24 hours or am I going to be down for a week?
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