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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 2:45 pm
by asianflava
This is what I used:
Image

PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 4:15 pm
by Ira
asianflava wrote:This is what I used:
Image


Ahhhhh...I miss that can.

Just looking at it makes me want to build ANOTHER one.

NOT!!!

And Dale, it goes on fine with a regular brush. It's real easy to work with.

PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 4:31 pm
by critter
hey all,
does that stuff get hard when its dry or does it just tutn into goo an how long?

PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 5:03 pm
by cracker39
That's one of the cans I saw at HD, and the one I will get soon. Pleae answer Ira's question, because I also want to know the answer.

PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 5:22 pm
by asianflava
It doesn't really get "Hard" when it drys, it just isn't sticky. If you left something on it it would probably get stuck after a couple days.

It's drying time depends on how thick it is applied. I brushed it on and in some places it took a few extra days. Most of it probably took around 5 days to a week.

PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 5:32 pm
by mikeschn
Ira,

I think I am going to send you a can of roof coating. :rofl:

Mike...

PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 5:39 pm
by cracker39
asianflava wrote:It doesn't really get "Hard" when it drys, it just isn't sticky. If you left something on it it would probably get stuck after a couple days.

It's drying time depends on how thick it is applied. I brushed it on and in some places it took a few extra days. Most of it probably took around 5 days to a week.


It sounds like you could coat it and with some help, turn it over and mount it on the frame and stick you foam directly to it. It would also "seal" itself to the frame. If it doesn't ever get hard, would construction adhesive stick to it?

PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2006 10:50 pm
by BrwBier
How about brush on truck bed liner. It's a little expensive, $35 or so but tough as anything.
Brwbier

PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:44 am
by Nitetimes
BrwBier wrote:How about brush on truck bed liner. It's a little expensive, $35 or so but tough as anything.
Brwbier


I do believe that possibility has be mentioned in a couple of other threads, but I think the drawback is that the wood first has to be sealed and primed for it to adhere properly.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 1:55 pm
by cracker39
I put a coat of the Gardner roof coating on the bottom of the floor while off the frame. The idea of doing it from underneath didn't appeal to me. It's been on 24 hours, and most is not sticky, but there are a few spots where it was heavier that is bubbling up a little, because it is sitting in the sun. I suppose that it will eventually dry. I wanted to get the floor on today, but I guess I'll wait another day.

Since I am putting foam insulation underneath, I didn't think it necessary to put two coats of the roofing stuff on. I'll stick the foam on with foam board adhesive. Then for further sealing, I'll spray some Great Stuff aerosol foam in the corners and joints, and cut off any that expands too much. I'm using the foil backed foam too, so moisture shouldn't even make it to the roof coating underneath.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 5:33 pm
by IndyTom
OK, Im cornfused :? I thought the roof coating went on last, after everything else was in place, the idea being that it cured kinda tough and rubbery as impact protection. I musta really misunderstood :?

PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 5:42 pm
by cracker39
I suppose lots of people do the coating last. I just don't like the idea of laying under the trailer on my back trying to apply that sticky, gooey, rubbery stuff which would be dripping all over me. I've had enough stuff stuck to me this week and have shaved off what was left of my hair to get it out. The roof coating is on my floor now, drying. I'll put the floor down tomorrow with poly sealant between the floor and the frame. Then, I'll crawl underneath and stick on the foam insulation and seal the edges and joints with spray foam. I think that will water proof it.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 5:44 pm
by cracker39
Addendum: There is nothing in my construction that involves getting under the floor once it's installed. That's why I am completing the floor installation before I start constructing on top of it.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 6:33 pm
by ALAN GEDDES
I used that emulsion from Henry's on all mine. Found that it penetrates about 2 or 3 plys of the wood when dreilling a hole later on. I think that would make it pretty well waterproof. Have had some on the shop floor for a couple of years now and it wears well also.

PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 11:41 am
by Keith B
This is an old thread...but it pertains to what I'm getting ready to do. I was going to oil base prime and paint my floor (I mean a house sees more sun and rain than a trailer bottom and it lasts, but all seem to use this Fibered Roof Coating. Seems messy but I guess if it's the voice of the masses...
1.) Are the fumes dangerous... it's winter here in KS, the furnace in the shop is on - I'd prefer things don't go BOOM.
2.) Some say trowel it on, others say brush it on - if it can be brushed that's what I'd like to do - did any heat it up before you put it on to help "liquify it" - does it penetrate at all or just coat?
3.) Does the floor need any "pre-treat" or just put it right on the bare wood and go.
4.) At 60 degrees (controlled heat), no humidity will it be dry in 24 hours or am I going to be down for a week?
Thanks, Keith