Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Have done a lot of browsing here, there, everywhere but haven't come accross how to seal the roof/wall joint. I'm familiar with a couple techniques but none that look like they'd work for the rounded shape of the typical tear. Enlighten me.

Thanks,
Tom

I plan to use caulking or silicon to fill the gap/space between the joints. Then I will cap the joint with angled aluminum.

tk wrote:Have done a lot of browsing here, there, everywhere but haven't come accross how to seal the roof/wall joint. I'm familiar with a couple techniques but none that look like they'd work for the rounded shape of the typical tear. Enlighten me.

Thanks,
Tom

Tom, Have a look at Mike's Generic Benroy plans or grab a copy of Steve Fredericks CDRom on how to build. The tricks and ways in both of these are invaluable. JMHO
Cheers
Paul

I used epoxy filler inbetween the roof and the side walls where ever there was a gap that needed filling.

I didn't really take a good picture of it, but if you look close at this one, you can see the joints filled and sanded. (The joints are on the side, not on the top!)



The epoxy filler I used is here..
http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/fillit.html

Also check out my skinning page here...
http://www.mikenchell.com/weekender/skinning.html

Mike...

mikeschn wrote:I used epoxy filler inbetween the roof and the side walls where ever there was a gap that needed filling.

I used the same technique to seal mine.

I too used thickened epoxy to fill gaps and join edges on the top, walls and floor. I used wood flour from my sanders dust catcher as a filler, It makes really strong joints. The 1/4 oak plywood on the top of my TD is epoxied in place. I used no screws or nails. 1/4 oak on the sides is the same, epoxied and clamped in place no nails or screws. Inside walls are attached with construction adhesive and 18 ga finish nails. Just the way I did it. Haven't run down the road at 80 MPH yet to test it.

mikeschn wrote:I used epoxy filler inbetween the roof and the side walls where ever there was a gap that needed filling.

I didn't really take a good picture of it, but if you look close at this one, you can see the joints filled and sanded. (The joints are on the side, not on the top!)



The epoxy filler I used is here..
http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/fillit.html

Also check out my skinning page here...
http://www.mikenchell.com/weekender/skinning.html

Mike...

Forget the filler:

Where did you get those PANTS!?

Tom:

Not certain how you are going to finish the outside. I used flashing tape on all edges where roof and sides, sides and floor meet. Flashing tape is very sticky and strong pvc tape available at most lumber yards. Comes in 50' roll, if I remember correctly.

This will only work if you are cladding in aluminum or Filon etc. I used aluminum edging over top the cladding.

Larry

Thanks for the responses. Unfortunately, I didn't frame my question well enough. I was really more interested in the cosmetic nature of the joint. Bandit mentioned the aluminum angle--that's more what I was after. However, I don't see how you bend the angle to follow the curve of the roof/wall joint without putting a kink in it. I'm a wood guy not metal if you hadn't guessed.

Thanks again,

Tom

tk wrote:Thanks for the responses. Unfortunately, I didn't frame my question well enough. I was really more interested in the cosmetic nature of the joint. Bandit mentioned the aluminum angle--that's more what I was after. However, I don't see how you bend the angle to follow the curve of the roof/wall joint without putting a kink in it. I'm a wood guy not metal if you hadn't guessed.

Thanks again,

Tom

tk...annealing is the answer to bending your AL without kinking...either that orf "dead soft" trim from one of the TD parts specialty shops...here is a thread on annealing
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?p=3396
madjack