Remodeling/Fixing Woes and Worries

[msleevang]

New to being a TD owner and to this site. I’m actually not very “handy” so I’m scared but equally excited to start remodeling a used camper I purchased. The fixing and remodeling were not planned when I bought it though. So much learning these last two weeks and I know I will continue to through this forum.

Thus far, I drove 1600 miles and 26 hours roundtrip to bring my TD home to a 13 year old boy and myself. I had hoped we would already be using it but discovered otherwise. I was trying to cosmetically update the camper and
1) removed old caulk and found 1” gaps. Then, saw some wet wood (we drove home in the rain) so I
2) removed the doors and found rot and carpenter ants in the left side door!! Cleaned that up and while it dried, I discovered
3) floor to front was foamed (breaking off now) and poorly sealed with caulk - removed all of it leaving a 1” gap.
4) after rotted wood dried, I sanded it and took out broken pieces then
6) hardened the sanded wood area with some wood restore hardener. After that was dry, I
7) filled the area (top, side and bottom) with wood repair epoxy paste

Now and Next up ... I will
8. sand the repaired area and prep the top for butyl tape to replace the door; the bottom with 3M marine sealant, butyl tape between the aluminum trim and sand the inside for wallpaper.
9) Seal the floor seams inside with Sikaflex.

Problem 1: area by the repaired door has a 1/2 gap (also deep) into the trailer frame....I’m not sure how to fix/fill that.



Problem 2: there is 1” gap between floor and front wall - you can see the inside light shining outside the camper. My plan is to fill it inside with sikaflex - is that too big of a gap though? do I need a foam instead? - and from the exterior seal with 3M marine grade sealant. Later, I will place a trim all around the interior floor.





Problem 3: I have been told that the flooring is treated plywood. Unsure but, what can I put over it to ensure there is no moisture with my mattress and to keep it dry? Cosmetically, I would like a more “refined/finished” look but ultimately, I care more about moisture and water protection all around, especially after I seal everything.

Pictures and videos of all my troubles and this craziness are housed in this folder on google: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JIrFKLAKqW1cwR5k_v8pT6XYR_8rRG8q

Thank you if you read through all this and are still willing to help! ❤️

[pchast]

to address the larger gaps:

attempt to add screws to pull things together? Drill the plywood and add cross pegs that you can then screw into.

Only you know if the wood is still viable. If its not possible to close the gaps, purchase 'backer rod' found in the isle with the caulking. Caulk both sides of the packed in rod and seal the outside. Realize this may increase the damage with road stresses.

[Philip]

What caused the gaps your talking about?

Did the floor warp and pull away from the wall?

How was the wall secured to the floor from what you can see?

My thought on that front wall.

You all ready have a piece of alumin deck plate on the front of the trailer. I would remove it. Have another piece made taller. Have a 90 degree bend put on the bottom. Make the 90 degree leg at least 1" wide. Slide that 1" leg under the floor. Secure and seal that to the floor. Then secure the wall to the deck plate. Then seal the inside of trailer.

Without supporting that wall and floor. One or both of them are moving. That is why you have a gap. Attaching both together should help the sealer work then.

Make the plate at least .125" thick.

[Pmullen503]

It doesn't look like the walls are attached very well to the floor. How is the body attached to the trailer? If possible I would try to pull the sides/front into the floor using pchast's method unless oversized interior walls/bulkheads prevent it.

A couple pictures of the entire trailer and interior would help us orient ourselves.

[saltydawg]

An option to strengthen the floor to wall joints is bent sheet metal screwed, glued or both to the wall and floor. Your local construction supply will have prebent 1.5 or 2 inch 18 or 20 gauge sheet metal used for metal stud walls in commercial construction. Its cheap, as in less than 10 bucks for 10 feet. the places you cant pull together, or can but the wood is iffy for strength use it. You can drill it for screws, or even thru bolt but that would be ugly. At min use the 3m 4200 sealant/adhesive to glue it in place. It will be hidden under the mattress when used inside.

Looks like this ebay listing but not stainless and can get it with 1.5 or 2 inch sides
https://www.ebay.com/i/301991390929?chn ... zCEALw_wcB

I am sorry you bought a problem.

Edit where do you live? maybe try to get a local tear dropper to come look and give advise with actually seeing it.