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I need help with aluminum trim installation

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 4:26 pm
by Tiki Dude
I was trying to install my aluminum trim today, and it turned out to be a disaster. I bought the trim from the Lil Bear Teardrop parts guy so I know it is supposed to bend. This stuff doesn't bend, what is the secret? I have already ruined one 8' piece. Maybe the curve is too much, what do you guys and gals think?

Image

Thanks,
Chris

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 5:31 pm
by JohnF
Chris - I assume you have annealed the trim piece with the candle smoke and then heated it to remove (burn off) the soot...that really softens it. The front of your TD looks like a very easy curve. If I see it correctly the top back (if that's a curve) might be tougher...I bent the "t" moulding around the bottom of the two doors on mine and that was a very tight curve and you can really persuade aluminum that has been annealed. A rubber hammer wroks just fine.

What procedure did you use? How thick is the trim piece?

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 5:38 pm
by Tiki Dude
Hi,

It is the standard thickness for edge trim. I tried heating it with a powerful heat gun but it still rippled.

Thanks

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 6:03 pm
by PaulC
Chris, We need flames not air to anneal the metal.
Cheers
Paul :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 6:06 pm
by JohnF
Chris, I sort of doubt a heat gun is enough...somewhat blacken the aluminum with the smoke from a candle...then use a propane torch to burn the soot off by moving the torch back and forth a few inches at a time...an 8-ft piece takes ten to 15 minutes to do...you need to heat the aluminum to just under the melting point..you might see just a hint of redness when it time to move on...some say to watch for a change in the color of the flame where it hits the metal...when it changes to a yellowish color , move! I have accidentally melted a piece by going too slow...you need to allow the metal to cool naturally after annealing it...hammering too much will "work harden" it an it becomes difficult to bend again. Use the search feature on this site and look up "annealing" and you'll get good information.

I have several heat guns that I use for the airplane but none of them could come even close to proving enough heat to anneal the aluminum.

Incidentally, I just pulled my Cubby out of the garage today for photos...just need another coat of paint on the fenders, but on a battery and tie it down and ITS DONE !!! Started it the first week of October.

Good luck.

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 6:14 pm
by mikeschn
Image

:sweaty:

Mike...

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 6:40 pm
by PaulC
WOW a photo of Mike without wine! :lol:
Cheers
Paul
PS Love the safety equipment being used :lol:

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 6:46 pm
by TomS
Image

What you're looking for is an orange glow itn the flame as shown here.

BTW -- Mike, don't you get burnt holding aluminum in your bare hands while anealing? That aluminum get HOT!

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 7:34 pm
by mikeschn
Yea, no safety equipment in that photo... I was just doing a show and tell with out really warming up the aluminum. I probably should include a Norm Abrams disclaimer...

Don't try this at home, and always be sure to use your safety equipment! :tipsy:

Mike... :lol:

Re: I need help with aluminum trim installation

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 1:16 am
by grant whipp
Tiki Dude wrote:I was trying to install my aluminum trim today, and it turned out to be a disaster. I bought the trim from the Lil Bear Teardrop parts guy so I know it is supposed to bend. This stuff doesn't bend, what is the secret? I have already ruined one 8' piece. Maybe the curve is too much, what do you guys and gals think?


Thanks,
Chris


Chris!

WHICH aluminum trim are you talking about ... and WHERE are you trying to install it? Your picture shows the outside of the teardrop, so I'm assuming you're trying to trim out the roof-to-wall edge, correct? Only two types of molding should be used on that edge - Regular Edge Molding or RV Roof Edge Molding (yeah, yeah, yeah ... I know some of you guys have used aluminum angle .... ;-} ;-} ...). Regular Edge Molding is very pliable and should go 'round that radius with ease. RV Roof Edge Molding is thicker & stiffer, but should still go 'round that radius with little or no difficulty if you go slow and use steady, even pressure.

Or, am I not understanding your application? Without digging into my records, I can't remember what you bought from me ...!

CHEERS!

Grant

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 3:29 am
by madjack
...we are using 1-1/8 X 3/8 RV insert molding and it went around a 2'radius with no problems and a 1' radius with just minor persuasion from the mallet....
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 4:02 am
by PaulC
madjack wrote:...we are using 1-1/8 X 3/8 RV insert molding and it went around a 2'radius with no problems and a 1' radius with just minor persuasion from the mallet....
madjack 8)


Madjack, where can I see a photo of this stuff?
Cheers
Paul :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 4:22 am
by madjack
Paul, we got ours either from The Metal Company, or Brueners,
it also available from http://www.yellowdogextrusion.com/extmold02.htm and https://www.rvsurplussalvage.com/catalo ... uct_id=944 We have some already bent but not applied so when I get to the shop on Monday I will take a couple of pics...I know how everyone justs luvs da pics
madjack 8)

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 6:36 am
by PaulC
Madjack, Had a quick look at those two sites. This stuff is still aluminum and still needs to be softened, right?
Cheers
Paul :thumbsup:

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 10:41 am
by Tiki Dude
Hi Grant, This is edge trim for the outside wall to roof corner. The trim is from Lil Bear and is designed for the curved teardrops. Do you have the easy bendy stuff in stock? I may get some of that for ease of installation.

Thanks,

Chris