Insulation Questions...

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby alaska teardrop » Wed Mar 01, 2006 11:39 pm

http://www.uaf.edu/coop-ext/faculty/sei ... tions.html
    OK - This link should work.
    This link goes to the University of Alaska Fairbank cold climate building reaserch department.
Last edited by alaska teardrop on Thu Mar 09, 2006 2:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
Northern Lite Traveler design: viewtopic.php?f=27&t=51991
Minimalist torsion axle frame: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12220
Alaska Teardrop photo gallery: http://tnttt.com/gallery/album.php?album_id=2014
Glampette photo gallery; gallery/album.php?album_id=2983&sk=t&sd=d&st=0
User avatar
alaska teardrop
Platinum Donating Member
 
Posts: 1112
Images: 177
Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2005 1:41 pm
Location: Greenville, Michigan

Re: Insulation Questions...

Postby Artificer » Thu Mar 02, 2006 9:17 am

Dean in Eureka, CA wrote:If the insullation needs to be glued into place, it would be great to find a product that will double as a sealant/adhesive...
What products have you guys used that doesn't attack the white foam board insullation?


Great Stuff expanding foam. This stuff will stick to both your foam board and the wood. In remodeling my house, I'm using 2" foam boards (pink or blue kind). I actually cut my pieces of foam 1/2" short on both dimentions, and use great stuff to seal/glue it into place. You get an airtight seal that is fairly strong. I've actually used Great Stuff to foam in place a headlight on an old commuter car after an accident. This is it's second winter, and its still holding well.

As for sealing/eliminating cavities... You want to minimize them. You don't have to seal the wood or go crazy about it. The nice thing about the foam solution is that if you misscut a piece of foam, just fill the gap, let it foam up and set, then trim flush to the wood.

Sound proofing: the goal is to stop the vibrations getting transmitted from one side to the other. 1/4" plywood, by itself, acts like a drum. Glue on the foam, and it doesn't. Also, sound will find any little crack, so once again... great stuff to the rescue. The 3 main ways to stop sound are to isolate the surfaces, so one side doesn't cause the other to resonate, add enough "stuff" to make the wall stiff/heavy enough so it will not transmit the sound, and put something in the walls to absorb the sound energy. All of these rely on not haveing any cracks/gaps/openings to "leak" sound through the wall.

<edit> Just re-read the question... do you mean glueing the foam to the skins? I thought you ment glueing into the framing. If you want to glue the foam board (expanded polystyrene?)to the skins, I've had success with water based multi-surface tile adhesive from HD. I still fill in any imperfections in my fitting with the great stuff.
Artificer
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 154
Images: 16
Joined: Sun Feb 19, 2006 11:31 am
Location: Wisconsin

Previous

Return to Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 22 guests