Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hi,

I accidentally painted my teardrop with exterior paint prior to learning about "the mix". Now that I know about "the mix", is it still okay to apply "the mix" over my already painted teardrop? Any harm if I do? I'm thinking the mineral spirit would harm the paint.

Yeah, I wouldn't do that.

The "mix" works because it soaks in.

As KC said, don't.

Tony

And what is The Mix may I ask.

JasenC wrote:And what is The Mix may I ask.

It's thinned oil-based polyurethane. You keep adding it until no more will soak in. 50:50 is generally the "mix".

Tony

This is probably a dumb (and slightly off topic) question, but can "The Mix" be done with water based polyurethane? The reason I ask is because it is getting harder and harder to find any kind of oil based paint or varnish around here. I hated the water based polyurethane the first 30 or so times I used it but it is slowly growing on me. Multiple very thin coats seems to work OK.

Kevin

tony.latham wrote:

JasenC wrote:And what is The Mix may I ask.

It's thinned oil-based polyurethane. You keep adding it until no more will soak in. 50:50 is generally the "mix".

Tony

kmack67.km wrote:This is probably a dumb (and slightly off topic) question, but can "The Mix" be done with water based polyurethane? The reason I ask is because it is getting harder and harder to find any kind of oil based paint or varnish around here. I hated the water based polyurethane the first 30 or so times I used it but it is slowly growing on me. Multiply very thin coats seems to work OK.

Kevin

Give General Finishes W/B products a try, top notch stuff, it's all I use for my personal stuff as well as work unless something else is spec'd. and then I usually push for the GF.

it is getting harder and harder to find any kind of oil based paint or varnish ...

Can't you buy Minwax oil-based poly up yonder? No spar varnish?

But to answer your question... I don't think anyone has the answer you're looking for.

Tony

tony.latham wrote:

JasenC wrote:And what is The Mix may I ask.

It's thinned oil-based polyurethane. You keep adding it until no more will soak in. 50:50 is generally the "mix".

Tony

Excuse me, Tony but I have a couple questions for clarification purposes:

1) I understood that "The Mix" was 50/50 Titebond II (waterproof glue) and water. That's what they used to use on Foamies, right? Don't they still use that?

2) I've heard the saying, "They get along like oil and water" which meant what I've always seen which is that oil and water don't mix well.

3) I think you're suggesting oil-based polyurethane because a water-based one will peel off the oil-based one underneath, but wouldn't it be better to mix mineral spirits with oil-based polyurethane to thin it?

Thanks, in advance, for your reply.

tony.latham wrote:

it is getting harder and harder to find any kind of oil based paint or varnish ...

Can't you buy Minwax oil-based poly up yonder? No spar varnish?

But to answer your question... I don't think anyone has the answer you're looking for.

Tony

Thanks for your answers everyone. I just checked my local hardware store and there are a few fast drying oil based alternatives still available, including interior Minwax. I will have to do some more research and stock up. A few years ago, I couldn't buy melamine paint anywhere locally but I see there is now a low VOC version available again.

Best regards,
Kevin

S. Heisley wrote:
Excuse me, Tony but I have a couple questions for clarification purposes:

1) I understood that "The Mix" was 50/50 Titebond II (waterproof glue) and water. That's what they used to use on Foamies, right? Don't they still use that?

I did this on my first foamie topper. yes, it works, yet I'm not extremely impressed.. I switched over to a Mix of bonding paint that worked better, yet now FG over XPS, better results in MHO.

To the OP. It seems to me that 'any' surfacing you have done, that has now dried, crates a new issue of bonding. There are products out there specifically to do this. Yet the real question is... Did it not bond well enough? If it bonded then stay with what you have. Otherwise look for a bonding agent then add add an addition coat. At this point no reason I see to dilute...

1) I understood that "The Mix" was 50/50 Titebond II (waterproof glue) and water. That's what they used to use on Foamies, right? Don't they still use that?

2) I've heard the saying, "They get along like oil and water" which meant what I've always seen which is that oil and water don't mix well.

3) I think you're suggesting oil-based polyurethane because a water-based one will peel off the oil-based one underneath, but wouldn't it be better to mix mineral spirits with oil-based polyurethane to thin it?

No, The Mix is not thinned Titebond. It's thinned oil-based polyurethane varnish such as Minwax and it shouldn't be used for PMF. It's used to waterproof wood. (And it's not UV reistant.)

I don't know the context of my "oil and water" statement. What was it about? Water-based poly sticks fine over cured oil-based poly. It's not unusual for me to start a panel with two coats of oil-based Minwax and the last coat or two with their water-based product because it dries faster. I use the oil-based stuff to give the wood a richer finish for the first two coats.



The last two coats of this headliner were done using a sprayer and Minwax Polycrilic over their oil-based stuff.

Tony

Thanks, Tony. That clarified it.