Questions about Gorilla glue

[Ira]

The wetting is no big deal. But Dale, DON'T underestimate the foam-up on that GG.

You glue and clamp your pieces, it looks nice and beautiful, you turn your back on it for a second, and ...

AARRGH!!!! IT'S ALIVE!!!

[madjack]

...another thought about GG especially for those in humid areas...

...atmopheric moisture will cause it to try and set up in the bottle, so son't get the large economy size as you may end up having to toss it...also, when you squeeze out some GG leave the bottle "squeezed" and recap so that no air is captured in the bottle.

...had never used GG until this project came along and found for certain applications it was too handy not to use...the big advantage over say Titebond is that it does not require as much clampage to get a good bond...inna lot of instances, glue and a brad gun worked out quite well, where as with TB, this method would not have been sufficient. Howeverm GG is messier to work with and leaves a darker joint line
madjack

[Artificer]

...had never used GG until this project came along and found for certain applications it was too handy not to use...the big advantage over say Titebond is that it does not require as much clampage to get a good bond...inna lot of instances, glue and a brad gun worked out quite well, where as with TB, this method would not have been sufficient. Howeverm GG is messier to work with and leaves a darker joint line
madjack

Another reason to use it over Titebond is open/work time. If you don't wet the wood, you've got upwards of an hour to reposition things. If you wet the wood, the bottle says 30 min. Its saved several of my projects.

Ira: try not wetting the surfaces you glue. The wetting decreases the cure time, but also increases the foaming. I'll have to look it up, but I've seen on the forum that Gorilla brand glue foams more than others.

[greasywheats]

I am planning on using the PL poly glue on areas similar to MadJack's TD. I am going to have aluminum angle backets on the inside of the tear to join the floors/walls and all the main bulkheads...i plan on using the poly glue on the plywood where it meets the aluminum (which it is also supposed to bond to) . Seeing as the body construction will be reinforced along the length of those brackets with screws, I figured setup time is not really an issue, especially seeing as once the body is put together, I will certainly have a day or two before it needs to be moved around a ton...I suppose the GG without wetting is roughly the same as the PL glue...thanks for the replys guys- always a help for new builders!

[Ira]

Ira: try not wetting the surfaces you glue. The wetting decreases the cure time, but also increases the foaming. I'll have to look it up, but I've seen on the forum that Gorilla brand glue foams more than others.

Well, I actually mis-spoke, because I thought it would be about the same:

I mostly used the Elmer's brand of it with the bull on the bottle (the chemical formula is like identical), and THAT stuff was nuts to work with.

I'm gonna have to buy some more of that or the GG for my fenders, and I want to be real careful about the foaming. So I won't wet it this time. Maybe I was also using too much water--I rubbed it on heavy with a paper towel.

[madjack]

Ira, we just gave the opposing side a quick spritz with a spray bottle...I highly recommend some dampening...not just atmospheric moisture...as far as foaming goe, if you take a rag with some mineral spirits, or other solvent and use it to wipe off the foam about 20 min into the curing process, will keep things nice and neat
madjack

[Artificer]

I mostly used the Elmer's brand of it with the bull on the bottle (the chemical formula is like identical), and THAT stuff was nuts to work with.

I'm gonna have to buy some more of that or the GG for my fenders, and I want to be real careful about the foaming. So I won't wet it this time. Maybe I was also using too much water--I rubbed it on heavy with a paper towel.

I had thought that the less viscous Elmers Ultimate brand foamed the most, but someone else said it was GG. Glad that you're experience backs that up. I've actually used the extra foaming of Elmers brand on several occations. Heavy mist on one side, clamp, and wait.

South Florida shouldn't have problem with too low of humidity to not wet the surfaces. Get the Gorilla brand, but even that is going to foam. Quick tip... get painters tape, and put that on the surfaces you don't want glued. You can pull it off, and the surface stays clean. Even if you have to scrape a bit of the foam bead off of the back of the tape, you're left with a pristine surface.

[Ira]

A little spritz from a bottle, nothing nuts, tape any critical areas, or mineral spirit ready for clean up.

I'm gonna try this after only one or two beers, not ten, so I'll remember it all.

[madjack]

...we tried the tape and it worked but too much time and mess...as a lazy man, I really liked the solvent soaked rag...remember to dispose of properly
madjack