I can make it flush with the floor but I don't really know how I can take weight off the hinge itself once the door is closed.
tony.latham wrote:A couple of things. First, as you may know, the guy's hatch leaks because he didn't overhang the hinge. Dunno about the style of hinge you are planning on using if that overhang is needed. But secondly, that angled hatch needs a significant rib system because of the hinge effect of that design.
tony.latham wrote:You don't want the hatch resting on the floor when closed. There has to be a seal there and it should be at the end of the floor, not the top or water will capillary in on the seal and if it gets below freezing, it will freeze.
tony.latham wrote: And of course, you're going to have to figure out a seal system for the hatch, a framework for the gas springs, and a method of keeping it closed.
tony.latham wrote:I once had a flat-back pass me on a gravel road and as I looked in the side mirror, their watch was open and I couldn't turn around with my camper to chase them down.
twisted lines wrote:I recently cut my side walls a little,
Flatback it is; with split doors in the center & hinges outside on the rear,
No lifting overhead and no door up there to bang me in the head. 6'6"
I should have specified, there will be a good seal all around using D shaped seals sandwiched between aluminum angle on the door and on the walls where it will shut
tony.latham wrote:Here's how it should be:
Are we on the same page now?
So if this is how it should be, it seems I can't really have a perfectly vertical hatch...
How does this look?
tony.latham wrote:That'll work fine. But you don't need two layers of 1/4". It's too heavy. 1/8" Baltic birch is fine and frankly, it's probably just as strong as 1/4" AC plywood--especially since it's supported with foam board.
Return to Teardrop Construction Tips & Techniques
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest