Paint Question

Anything to do with mechanical, construction etc

Postby cracker39 » Fri Apr 07, 2006 5:08 pm

Artificer, you've given me some good ideas. I'll move the filter to between the two hoses. I have a large plastic drum. I'll coil as much of the first hose as possible in the drum and add cold water and as much ice as I have...i'll make smoe more tonight.

The whole compressor system got pretty warm today. Even the filter housing was hot, attached directly to the compressor outlet. I'll try also try to rig a fan on it to help keep it cool.

Thanks, all of you for the tips.
Dale

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Postby GPW » Fri Apr 07, 2006 5:47 pm

I sure am glad I'm rolling my finish on .... ;)
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Postby Mitheral » Fri Apr 07, 2006 6:35 pm

GPW wrote:I sure am glad I'm rolling my finish on .... ;)


I know you were just funning but if you do any serious work with airtools it's a good idea to dry your air as much as possible even if you are not spraying. Water is abrasive and will cause extra wear on air tools. It also will cause rust/corrosion. And there is nothing like the agony caused by a big splotch of rusty water being ejected from your finishing nailer onto a rug, wall or furniture project.
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Postby GPW » Sat Apr 08, 2006 7:11 am

Just Funnin ' !!! Here in New Orleans , where it's VERY humid most of the year , it is a real challenge to keep the water out ...and doing airbrush work with lacquer(anybody remember that ???) , I had to change to Co2 ( dry )...not practical for big jobs though ...Multiple(expensive ) driers and constant draining , helped at my brothers deluxe body/ paint shop ... most not practical at home ... that's why I'm hand painting ... why heck , if our man C39 were to drive his trailer over , we could wrap it in some nice beach scenes/dunes ... that looked real ...with a brush yet !!! ;)
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Postby Artificer » Sat Apr 08, 2006 7:29 am

Another silly idea... air conditioning. One of the main purposes of an air conditioner is to drop the humidity. Put the compressor in air conditioned space (feed it air from the A/C), along with everything else people have suggested. Its sort of a pre compressor air dryer.

Hmmm... if the trailer has A/C, put the compressor in there to paint the trailer. Probably wouldn't work. :D
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Postby cracker39 » Sat Apr 08, 2006 1:34 pm

I did the "final" painting today with partial success (so,it isn't really final). I put the first hose in a drum with cold water and the filter betweenthe hoses. I only had a few spits of water, and stopped and blew out the hose with a blower and continued. I also emptied the filter and left the bottom valve cracked a bit...problem went away.

As for success. Well, I'm almost done painting. I cleaned up one of my old HC paint pressure/siphon guns and it worked better than the HF gun for the first coat. I did the top and it was great...all glossy, no streaks. With added confidence, I sprayed the top ftont skin piece. Beautiful results. Then, I started on the front bottom piece, look up, and OH NO...SAGGING PAINT. I adjuested the feed on the gun for less paint and finished the bottom piece. There a sags all across the front, in several places, racing me to the joint to the bottom piece. I grabbed rags and solvent and wiped down the entire front upper piece. After it dries, I'll sand it and repaint that section.

On the curb side, the finish is all glossy, but on the other side, I have one area about 3' wide, top to bottom, where for some reason, the finish isn't as glossy as the rest...more like overspray on it. This is also the area where I had the water spits. I think I may be able to use rubbing compound to bring out the shine. Anyone done that before? If necessary, I can repaint the entire side, but hope I don't have to do that.

After I was done, because we're expecting rain tonite or tomorrow, I lowered the hubs back onto "tracks" of 2x4s and plywood and backed it back under my canopy, where it will stay for at least a week while the paint cures and I've repainted what I need to. I can work on the interior under the canopy, and add the fenders, but I will have to bring it back outside to put on the tires/wheels.

So. sorry, but the prmoised pics will have to wait. But, when I do take them, you'll see a completed exterior.
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Postby Miriam C. » Sat Apr 08, 2006 9:13 pm

Dale
Are the places where you have problems the same places you put wood filler?

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Postby cracker39 » Sun Apr 09, 2006 7:03 am

No. You can tell where one of the edge joints is because that area is slightly "lower" than the surrounding area (deeper?). It isn't the paint that shows up, but the uneven surface. Any place where the filler was sanded smooth and flush with the surrounding area, you can't tell it was ever filled there. That one problem area that isn't as glossy is in the middle of a sheet of plywood. All of the plywood, whether luan or oak, if filled smooth before painting, resulted in a nice, smooth, glossy finish. If there's one thing I know about painting plywood (or any wood), surface preparation is critical. All the filling and sanding I did has paid off. It may not be perfect, but it is a lot better I anticipated it to be.
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Postby GPW » Mon Apr 10, 2006 6:36 am

Surface prep IS EVERYTHING .... oughta' be smooth as a baby zaz.. which usually requires a lot of not so fun work , like sanding , again and again ...the painting is the FUN part ...
C39 if you get some sags/runs down low , just keep applying paint and "run it off" the lower edge ... old trick / timesaver
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Postby cracker39 » Mon Apr 10, 2006 8:08 am

GPW wrote:Surface prep IS EVERYTHING ....
C39 if you get some sags/runs down low , just keep applying paint and "run it off" the lower edge ... old trick / timesaver


Problem was that it was on the upper half of the front. It would have run down onto the lower half which was OK. I'll just resand in a couple of days and shoot it again. I may just wait until I am ready to shoot the fenders and do the front then when I have paint ready to shoot.
Dale

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Postby GPW » Tue Apr 11, 2006 6:33 am

C39... I don't know what paint technique you use , but we used to spray a light "Tack coat " first and let it get sticky (feel the tape ) That seemed to hold the next layer so much better , especially with metallics which tend to sag/run anyway.. Hope that helps ...
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