Wall construction?

[kayakrguy]

Ira Quote: "Thank God none of them hit ME.

And I guess it bears repeating (bares?), because we have a lot of great new guys here and I haven't seen this sentiment posted in a long time:"

The Choir response to the first line: 'AAAAMMMMENNNN!' <G>

My response to the second line is: The 'oldtimers'....ummmmmm, no, the 'seasoned pro's' (much better) on this board are a heckuva bunch of folks IMHO. I have NEVER seen a board like this on the web before, unless it was a board shared by folks with handicaps, illnesses etc.

Oh, I forgot--we're all crazy here! <g>

Jim

[riverfront]

Great information!!! Make you second guess what wall to build!

Still wish someone who has built both kind of walls had an opinion here!

Question: Can pocket screws be used on the 3/4 ply? Or is there not enough material to work with or because of the properties of ply would you get a pull through?

It sounds like sandwich weighs less then 3/4 ply and you have the advantage of insulation, wireing and a small cost! Correct? It seems to me that the big disadvantage is the time it takes to build?

Thanks!

P.S. I need to order Steve F. CD! Looks like a must investment, just one of the tools! LOL

Not crazy but a great giving way!

[kayakrguy]

asianflave,

Thanks for the wall pictures and advice....really appreciate it!

What size framing did you use on the plywood seams on the door hinge?

Did you use just brads and glue on that framing as well as the rest of the wall?

Thank you again,

Jim

[asianflava]

I don't remember exacty I think it was 4in wide poplar, I had to cut it down the middle afterwards for the door. I put poplar in places where the hinges attached.

The frame itself is held together with biscuits and Titebond II. Next time I'd probably use pocket screws. I had to find creative ways to clamp this whole rig together. The pocket screws would draw the 2 pieces tight, so it wouldn't need clamps.

[kayakrguy]

I have a construction question. My walls will have a seam 2' from the front of the trailer where I will join two pieces of 1/2" ply--

I am thinking of scarf jointing the ply and using screws and gorilla glue. The other posibility is simply to butt joint the ply on a 1x3 --again with gorilla and screws. Which would likely be better? Something else better? Cutting the joint will be a bit tricky cause I only have a trusty Craftsman rotary saw to work with, no table.

Jim

[madjack]

Jim, a scarf joint would probably be better but a 1x3 glued and screwed would probably be sufficient...........

[Kurt (Indiana)]

I used the 3/4" walls for simplicity. After adding the A/C and the ceramic heater, I didn't really see any value to the extra work of insulating (the walls). I did insulate the roof, mostly to keep the direct sun heating to a minimum.
Carpeting on the walls adds a comfortable feel when it's cold out.

[Sonetpro]

I have a construction question. My walls will have a seam 2' from the front of the trailer where I will join two pieces of 1/2" ply--

I am thinking of scarf jointing the ply and using screws and gorilla glue. The other posibility is simply to butt joint the ply on a 1x3 --again with gorilla and screws. Which would likely be better? Something else better? Cutting the joint will be a bit tricky cause I only have a trusty Craftsman rotary saw to work with, no table.

Jim

I did mine in 1/2" I biscuit jointed it and the door frame back's it , As you can see in the pic it's right in the middle of the door opening. It came out plenty strong.

[kayakrguy]

Folks,

I will be buying ply for the walls this week. I have questions about your choice of ply and how it has worked out.

MARINE PLY: I realize this is the cream of the crop in ply less likely to have hollows etc. I also realize it is $$$$$ and while I am willing to spend $$ if need be, I would like to hear about good alternatives.

For weight reasons I am not considering MDF etc. I will likely use 1/2 " 4x 8's (5/32's exactly)

The local big boxes offer Arauco (sic) and Fir in 1/2 inch sanded on one side. Would these be 'good enuf' given:

1) I will put at least three coats of varnish inside and 3 coats of paint outside;

2) I may have to winter store outside in damp cand cool New Jersey.

Some marine websites frown on ACX etc because of voids which lead to rot....

Advice and experience welcome,

Happy 4th of July to everyone...

[madjack]

MDF, is a fiber board and not suitable for anything but a really poor fire...MDO, is a ply that has a material bonded to it and is used for outdoor signs and is usable especially if doing a painted finish...ACX is viable but it still just basic ply...marine is just too expensive and not worth the cost(in my opinion)...I like a good cabinet grade ply with 11 or 13 plys...avoid chinese ply, while a few have had luck with it, I find it to be just so much trash...my buck, 2.98 worth..........
madjack

[apratt]

Madjack 11 or 13 ply... is that 3/4 inch ply??

[madjack]

Madjack 11 or 13 ply... is that 3/4 inch ply??

...yes, 3/4" is what I am talking about...1/2" can be had in 11, not positive about 13...................................

[alaska teardrop]

http://www.hoganhardwoods.com/hogan/pag ... cal_03.htm
Click on:
'Hardwood Plywood Core Types' for how the various types are made.
'Hardwood Plywood Grades' for grading characteristics of several types of wood.
And 'Plywood Weights' for a selection of types & sizes.

Fred

[angib]

Some marine websites frown on ACX etc because of voids which lead to rot....

The only reasons for choosing marine ply are:
- It is not allowed to have voids at the joints on interior plies - even on an epoxy coated boat, these will attract water (and then rot) by osmosis if the boat is left in the water.
- The face veneers are often of better quality and the same standard applies to both sides.
- The wood species used will have good mechanical strength.

Unless you intend to store your trailer underwater, you don't need the 'no voids' rule of marine ply. You might want to pick it (and pay for it) for its face veneers - that's a personal decision. Teardrops don't need the good strength - ply thickness in a teardrop is limited by its stiffness, not its strength.

By the way, marine ply is not really the top of the tree - when plywood racing boats were common, boatbuilders used to get 'custom plywood' made. My former boss gave me two plywood blanks which had been custom made for centreboards - although they have either 15 or 17 plies in a 1" thickness, all but 4 or 6 of the plies run in the same direction, so that the bending strength of the centreboard where it stuck out of the boat was as high as possible.

Andrew

[kayakrguy]

One thing I notice consistently is that stuff mentioned here--for example, 11-12-13 ply for 1/2-3/4 inch ply is simply off the wall in terms of what is in stock hereabouts at the big boxes or even mill shops serving contratractors.

There is an Arauco (spelling) 1/2" (15/32 really) at one Lowe's near here, rated as 'cabinet grade' and it has, I recall, 7 or 8 ply.

Once you move off the big box stuff hereabouts, you head to the special order desk and then you get the minimum order problem. If I was building TD's for a living it would be fine to order but hello? not for one.....but wait a minute! Madjack, you running a business school for wannabe builders? <g>

I'm retired, so this could be a new job to lose money at--like dairy farming <G> (except it isn't funny for the farmers)

Jim