Annealing, first attempt...need critique.

[cracker39]

The trick is working from the top when it's 7' up from the ground, holding the trim up in the air to get the end started, drilling the first hole, putting the first screw in. I'll need 4 hands. Maybe I can talk my wife into standing on a ladder and holding the trim up for me while I get it started. putting the caulk in won't be a problem. I'll form it first with #6 screws then remove it for painting. While it's off, I'll predrill for the #8 stainless screws. When it's ready to go on, I'll dab caulk on each hole before I put it back in place to screw it down. There will also be a bead of caulk in the inside corner, end to end.

[asianflava]

I couldn't get that thin 1/16 stuff to bend without kinking. The thicker 1/8 did better for me. Although it didn't kink and buckle, it had a tendency to twist.

[cracker39]

The trim that I'm bending is about 1/16" (.063). As you can see in my pictures, the curve on the roof isn't very tight, not like on the front of a TD The sample form I'm using is traced from my roof curve). .The leg on the top is about 1" wide, the part that I'm having to flatten on the side is about 3/4" wide.

[cracker39]

I've annealed the 22 feet of trim I need for the top curve. It went pretty good. I almost started to melt one section, but stopped in time and using wood blocks, tapped it back in line before it cooled off. I made the mistake of trying to pick up a 10' piece to turn it around to work on the other end before letting it cool some. It bent a little in two directions. Using the wood blocks and hammer, I straightened it out before it cooled off. That's a lesson learned, don't try to move the trim while it's still hot because it is butter soft and will bend with the slightest movement. It's too bad I can't form it while it's hot...or can I?

What about shaping it with heat applied on the sample form that is the same shape as the front of the trailer roof? Start it with one screw at the front, then heat the side with the torch and bend it down while it's still hot and tap it smooth. I planned to preshape the first 24 inches on the form anyway before putting it on the roof. That will eliminate the problem of holding and starting to try to shape it and put in screws while standing on a ladder. It will be preformed at least at the front where the curve is greatest.

[cracker39]

Without applying more heat, I preformed the first 24 inches of one side trim for the roof on my sample form after sanding it again to match the roof curve exactly. After preforming that much (from the front to the flat section for the fan), I had no problem fitting it to the roof and putting in the screws for that part. I then continued to predrill and screw down the rest. I used the mallet to flatten the top and sides of the trim. I had already put screw holes in the side, and wish I hadn't. It doesn't need them once the top is screwed down. But, the screw holes in both legs will ensure that the joints stay together. Since I put screw holes in the sides of the top, I'll do it everywhere else to match.

BTW, the trim piece formed perfectly to the curve of the roof. One more side to go, then I'll paint the trailer and put on all the trim. Meanwhile, I took off the formed trim to prime and paint it, and put masking tape along the roof to protect the screw holes from rain. I've used the blue tape before and it holds up well against rain and peels off pretty easily a few days later.