tsunami38 wrote: I was wondering why you didn't use a lighter weight glass, one that the weave would not be seen after coating with epox, or did the 6 oz. work alright? If I remember correctly, when I built my DN class iceboat I was using .5 glass to protect the wood.
Steve Frederick wrote:tsunami38 wrote: I was wondering why you didn't use a lighter weight glass, one that the weave would not be seen after coating with epox, or did the 6 oz. work alright? If I remember correctly, when I built my DN class iceboat I was using .5 glass to protect the wood.
On the Stripper, I used 6-oz 'glass, and had no trouble with the weave showing. The heavy cloth does use a lot of epoxy though. I used 3-oz on both of the 'Diners, also with little trouble. less epoxy too! I'm starting two more tears to be sold in the spring, and will use 3-oz on the roof, and the joint between the roof/wall. I'm using 'glass as a mechanical element to bond the roof to the walls. I don't use any trim. Exterior walls will get 2 or 3 coats of epoxy, then the whole camper will get 4 or more sprayed coats of spar varnish.
Paulyboy wrote:Steve, I've got a question for you. After reading this comment, I wonder if you've considered using automotive clearcoat? I used some leftover up on some small woodworking projects, ones that I had planned to varnish the same weekend that I replaced and painted sheetmetal on my car. I figured, why not use the leftover cleAR ON THE wood, instead of dumping it in the can? So far, it's held up as good on the wood as the car! And it's nit yellowing, like spar varnish will do.
Chris C wrote:Don't fret, Steve. HVLP is easy to use. If you've sprayed finishes in the past, you'll love this. In the first place, you won't have to live in a fog as you do with a typical unit. It is much easier to see if you are keeping a wet coat. It's great.....................................that said, I'd love to have an HVLP outfit myself!
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