George,
You can see my plans on my web site at
http://home.tampabay.rr.com/wdsummers/camping.html I don’t have a link back to the home page, but will put one in soon and clean up the camping page. That was a quick and dirty 5 minute job just to get my plans uploaded and displayed.
My plans are subject to change as I tweak it. First, the overall dimensions outside, from forward most part of the cabin to the rearmost part is 5’ 3.5”W x’ 10.5”L. The chassis frame, not counting the bumper or tongue, is 5’ 3”W x 9’ 0” long. The axle placement may be moved forward as I get further along in estimating weight and tongue length to determine how much hitch weight I will have. I’d like to keep that to 150lb or less. My entire floor, except for the drop down area, is at the same height.
I skimped on Galley size, as you can see, by having a counter top of only 23” deep and about 47” wide. But, then, my kitchen cabinets in my home are only 24” deep. The lower cabinet starts at only 10.5” deep at the bottom and increases as it goes up. If a water tank is added under the counter, it would have to be on a shelf. I think I’d prefer the water tank under a bed side compartment to better distribute the weight (8lbs per gal). I have not designed in an upper cabinet at the moment. At the left side of the cabin, is a 12” deep closet with narrow shelves to one side. Forward of that, on the counter top, is a 12” deep cabinet. The lower cabinet will extend full width of 60”, side to side.
My standing, drop-down area is only 27” front to back, and 44” side to side. I achieve the extra width with my chassis design. I could get more depth to the dropdown if I wanted to extend the angles of the front and back to, say 11’ 4”. Even then, I’d probably put 4” of the added space under the galley cabinet front so you could stand closer to it. Actually, I could do that by moving the 2nd cross member forward 4” under the cabinet front without adding any length to the cabin…See what happens when someone asks questions? You start to think up new things. That’s what’s so great about feedback from others.
I decided to square off my front and back, rather than try to curve ¼” hard plywood very much. Also, a flat back end makes installation of a window AC (My wife insists on it) easier to support and seal. I also like the look of it that way.
I think I’ll find good quality foam (preferably Latex) for the mattress parts. I can sew the covers myself. I can either go one piece 19” wide with a 11” piece for a back bolster sitting on the other, or, make both 15” wide and place the bolster behind the seat part. Either way, with 4” foam, there will be 15” of seat and 11” of back rest. Not much, but enough. I plan on a dinette hanging on the rear wall with a front support leg (Table is part of the center of the bed platform).
At first, I wanted only a front dinette with the rear half of the bed platform as storage, but then, I entertained the idea that if we has company, we’d need the entire 60” as two divans. The AC will be over the rear of the dinette table, but with only two people eating, a 22” x 48” dinette would be plenty big enough. My plan shows it as only 36”, but I just decided to extent it to 48”.
I hope that answers your questions. Thanks again for the feedback..
And Andrew, I like it. As you can see from my Avatar, it is now the Squidget.
Cracker