The weekender

[mikeschn]

Well now, it's not that we doubted YOU, we didn't think anyone could do it!!
But will have to admit, you have impressed us. Will have more faith next time! Course you are a bit younger and it is a lot cooler up there. Down here you have to stop every 15 min for a 30 min cool down.

Frank

hehehe... thanks for the clarification!!!

I'm not THAT many years younger than you guys... and I just had ANOTHER birthday last month!!!

And yesterday when we built the weekender mockup Michelle overheated twice! So we took plenty of breaks...

Anyhow, you'll recognize this person... ...hard at work!!!



Mike...

[mikeschn]

Mike, I agree with the notion to use screws for the ply assembly. I used common drywall screws everywhere that the corosion potential is low. Elswhere, I used screws intended for decks or other exterior jobs. I pre-drilled every screw, added Gorilla Glue everywhere, and, was very carefull about placing the fasteners away from the edges of the ply.
I don't know how you would incorporate blocking into the design. I used blocking, incorporated into the insulation layer, to back up the joints.
Adding insulation would add a few hours to the project, and might make it a "three Weekender" . Worth it for us, we love camping in the fall when it is cooler, even early winter.
The project is sooooooo cooooooool I love the shape. Are the angles hard to assemble?

I've always used galvanized decking screws for my teardrops, but I would consider using the square head stainless screws mentioned eariler. Granted they are a little softer, and a little easier to strip out, but with the square head, I'll give them a chance!

As for blocking, yes, many of the joints could stand a little bit of blocking. Kinda like a stringer running across the width, under each joint.

And the insulation sounds good as well, but it would certainly turn the 1 day project into a multi day project. But I guess it's all in what you want. BTW, the angles were easy to work with. I was able to cut each one on the table saw, since none exceeded 45*.

And with each day that goes by I like the profile more and more!

Mike...

[catrinka]

This one definitely calls for 3/4" moisture resistant luan. Mike...

After trying to do a search on the net for luan....what the heck is it?

Cathy

[mikeschn]

Luan is the "inexpensive" plywood that you can get at home depot and other lumberyards. It looks like mahogany on one side. It's also what Roly built his out of.

Go here to eyeball Roly's teardrop.
http://gages-56.com/roly9.html?

And here's a photo of some 1/4" luan... the one on top is luan...
http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/stitchglu ... ype1lg.jpg

Anyways, you don't want to use the 1/4 in stuff in this case. You want to use the 3/4" thick stuff. Not everyone sells it, so you might have to look around.

Mike...

[robert]

Where's the ac? Georgia summer 100+ need ac . I like the idea of ducts but i don't like having to lug the ac in and out of the car . could you build it in ,maybe in the top cabinet in the kitchen, or maybe a dormer that would look cool like the B-52. It'sjust noway you could get in it in the summer down here. And it can rain 2" in a litte time so i am uncomfortable with the AC seating on the ground under the trailer.
Hope this does not give too big of a headache. robert

[mikeschn]

How about an Air V air conditioner?

http://www.airv.carrier.com/Files/AirV/ ... ochure.pdf

or this 7100 btu model...
http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus ... unum=10183

Mike...

[mikeschn]

Of course, if you don't want to spend the $419 on the roof a/c, you could always buy a cheap window unit, and put it in a box on the roof, like this.
The entire area under the box is open to the cabin, you you have access to the controls, as well as good air flow...



Mike...

[mikeschn]

Or, if you prefer, instead of building up and out, you could build down and in. You're losing a lot of space if you build inwards, both in the cabin and in the galley... but still, here's what it might look like...



Mike...

[mikeschn]

Last but not least, you could put a box in the roof, with a "window" towards the front of the trailer. Then just drop your a/c in, push it through the window and you're in business.

Of course you'd have to find a way to get the water out of the box. Something like a drain hose would do the trick. You wouldn't even have to cover the box. Just leave it open so that the hot air can escape!



Mike...

[Chip]

Mike ,,suggestion,,put a flap the size of ya a/c in the front, upper sloped area,,at camp lower flap to horizintal and set a/c from inside tear to the shelf,,,I dont know if ya got enough room vertically but its just a thought,,,

thought #2 mount a/c in roof on a teliscopisc setup ,, when traveling the a/c folds into the cabin via a hinge on the front edge of the panel,,flush mounted to the roof,,at camp,,from inside push a/c up and lock into position,, sort of a pop up a/c ,,

chip

[mikeschn]

And if you tweak the body profile a little bit, you can use 1 long hurricane hinge on the galley hatch again! This is the approach I would probably try first.



Mike...

[mikeschn]

Here's another one. I like this the best so far.



Mike...

[Guest]

Hey Mike,
What air conditioner is Cary using on his 550 model?
It only has a small flaired exhaust opening on the exterior of the trailer.

[mikeschn]

Good question... I haven't got a whole lot of detail on that yet. Cary, are you there? Can you shed some light on this?

Mike...

[angib]

Errrr, why not stick the AC on the front slope? Presumably you'd have to fit a cover for transport to stop the bugs getting blasted in. But it would get it (mostly) out of the way but accessible.

Andrew