The weekender

[mikeschn]

That's all I have from Q, except for this one...



Mike...

[mikeschn]

Hey Guys,

I have started the final drawings for the webpage... Just thought you'd like to see where the furnace ends up!!!



Mike...

[Carl the Viking]

Bass Pro Shops has a small propane heater suitable for indoor use which is adjustable from 4000 to 8000 BTU's. This should work well in a teardrop as long as it is well ventilated, don't you think. The price is $90, so it is considerable cheaper than a furnace.
http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog. ... rchResults[url]

This is what i was thinking of using for winter camping. Just an idea. What do you guys think?

[mikeschn]

My thought is no...

I'm not sure if that's what they call a catalytic heater, or not, but one thing is for sure, it's not vented to the outside. And I know from looking around at home depot, that they call these things safe for indoor use, and then cover their butt with a disclaimer that mentions carbon monoxide.

I would read this,
http://www.rverscorner.com/info/catalytic.html

and spend the extra money to be safe!

Mike...

[BOOTS]

Mike,
I just found your weekender website. Great design! I find the prospect of a quickly built camping trailer apealing. However, your info on the 5X8 trailer was sketchy. Do you still use the 4X8 trailer chasis or build a different one? If this is the case, the one-weekend concept flies out the window.

[mikeschn]

You are half right Boots.

It can be built in one weekend if you can build it all out of plywood.

A 4x8 is especially easy, because you can buy the plywood at home depot. But a 5x10 can be easy too, you just have to buy 5x10 sheets of plywood, like I used on the Baja Benroy.

The information on the 5x8 is sketchy because I think most people that want to build a quick teardrop and also going to want to build an affordable teardrop. And that's the 4x8.

So tell me what your thoughts are... you really want a 5x10 but you don't want to spend the money? Then you may as well build a traditional teardrop, because it'll take you roughly 200 to 250 hours. Tell me more so I can point you in the right direction!

Mike....

[robert]

Mike
I want to build the 4x8 weekender (frame constuction) i know it will take longer and cost more but the way i work it's going to take a long time anyhow,well money i don't have any so the longer it takes the better as long as i get it done by spring.But i have a few :
#1. Bulkhead frame or soild plywood?
#2. I asked aways back about A/C an you had some great designs i really liked the dormer in the hatch any ideas on how to frame it? and seal it ?
#3. Could i build a 5x8 on a 4x8 trailer? let it hang over 6" each side? If i make the floor 1/2 ply/1x's/1/2 ply sandwitch it should be strong.
I know 4x8 is small but it's was 2 years 2 months and 4 days ago i said
I DO so where still on the honeymoon sometimes so 4' will be fine for now who knows we may have a teardrop baby you never know!
Robert

[robert]

Mike
I wanted to say THANKS
The drawings and list you are putting togather on the weekender are very helpful an just what i need to get me started and walk me thru and for this web site it has giving me some great ideas ( cindy in back saying too many ideas ) but don't listen it's great THANKS A LOT
Robert

[Guest]

#2. I asked aways back about A/C

Robert,
Check out how engled did his A/C.

[mikeschn]

Mike
I want to build the 4x8 weekender (frame constuction) i know it will take longer and cost more but the way i work it's going to take a long time anyhow,well money i don't have any so the longer it takes the better as long as i get it done by spring.But i have a few :
#1. Bulkhead frame or soild plywood?

The easiest way is solid plywood. If you are doing an insulated Weekend, then probably a framed panel with insulation. I'll do a quick cost comparison today of the two methods

#2. I asked aways back about A/C an you had some great designs i really liked the dormer in the hatch any ideas on how to frame it? and seal it ?

I am still working on the a/c design. The best place for it is above the axle, where it won't affect the tongue weight. But it's getting pretty crowded above the axle. I have another idea which I'll be looking at today.

#3. Could i build a 5x8 on a 4x8 trailer? let it hang over 6" each side? If i make the floor 1/2 ply/1x's/1/2 ply sandwitch it should be strong.

The plywood construction is designed so that the side panels sit on the metal frame of the trailer. If you have the side panels hanging out in space, could you break thru the plywood floor and end up with your body sitting on the road? Well, maybe not exactly, but you sure have a weak joint there. I wouldn't do it. Also, you have to build wheel wells so your tires clear the body. Read, "additional work"!

I should have some more infomation later today.

Mike...

[mikeschn]

Okay here's the cost to build up two framed side walls...

1x6x6 pine [email protected] = 28.63
1x6x8 pine 1 @ 5.45 = 5.45
4x8x1/4" luan [email protected]=31.95
glue [email protected] = 4.97
screws [email protected]=6.04
total = 77.04

We need to compare that to 3 sheets of 1/2" bc plywood. Does anyone know the cost of 1 sheet?

Mike...

[mikeschn]

Here's a couple more air conditioner ideas...

Here's the front mount one. I've been avoiding the front mount because I don't want to increase the tongue weight, but for those of you who don't care about tongue weight, this is an option...




Mike...

[mikeschn]

And here's another top mount a/c. This one is above the axle, but mostly out of the cabin area... plus the area in front of the a/c is almost 5', for those of you who want to "almost" stand in your teardrop or ttt.



Mike...

[R Keller]

The plywood construction is designed so that the side panels sit on the metal frame of the trailer. If you have the side panels hanging out in space, could you break thru the plywood floor and end up with your body sitting on the road? Well, maybe not exactly, but you sure have a weak joint there.

If you're going to put the side panels "out in space" it'd be far more preferable to place the side walls on the floor in a compression joint rather than screwed/glued to the side of the floor in a shear joint. Otherwise, while it's not likely that you'd break through the floor, the side wall joint could fail and the side wall could be sitting on the road.

The cool thing about an overhang is that you can screw a "skirt" into the floor from below to hide the chassis for a very clean and "traditional" look. I think I remember Grant Whipp stating a while back that historically there was only one "traditional" teardrop design that didn't have side skirts (can't remember which one off-hand).

Rik

[Guest]

Greetings,

Lurking here and obviously a novice, but what is the R factor for 1/2 inch plywood and 3/4???

I can see insulating the floor from sleeping on cots in tents. But, you are heating or cooling a SMALL space, correct? And what you are using to do this is probably rated for a LARGER space. So, do I REALLY need the insulation with plywood of the thicknesses mentioned?

I just thought I was going to get some sleep tonight.

TIA,

Eagle