Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

Hello,

Ive been spending lots of time lurking and designing...and redesigning... and redesigning some more. Now I have my trailer and I'm ready to take the plunge. The only problem is that I can't decide between two designs.

I'm looking at a standy/slouchy design with a dropped floor, queen size mattress (installed the long way) and large galley. The problem is deciding on the axle placement. I have two options... dropped floor in front of the axle or behind the axle. I used the trailer balance spreadsheet for both options using a fully loaded trailer. I come up with a rolling weight of 1900 lbs. First of all, does this sound reasonable? I tried to be dilligent about accounting for all the construction materials and I pack rather heavy.

Option #1 has the axle betrween the dropped floor and the mattress.



I come up with a tongue weight of 150 lbs. You could add another 40 or 50 if I add a spare to the tongue.

Option #2 has the axle between the galley and the dropped floor.



In this configuration the tongue weight is actually 350 lbs according the the spreadsheet (I found an error in the spreadsheet after I scanned the image). I could bring this down to 275 if I bring the batteries back and put them under the galley and mount the spare under the floor but I dont really want to waste galley space on the battery.

I am literally changing my mind on a daily basis and its driving me crazy I NEED PROFESSIONAL HELP! But that's beside the point... I need some advice on which design would be best.

Also, I do plan on adding trailer brakes and my tow vehicle is a saturn vue or a ranger 4wd. A mid size jeep is in the future as m next tow vehicle.

I would say the tongue weight alone should tell you what to do

John

I like the look of this one the best. I seems to have the best balance of storage space, both in the front and the rear. Also I think the door placement will look better than the other profile. Although it will be a little harder to get in and out with the cutout area for the wheel.



Dan

Chuckels,

1900 lbs finished trailer wight is doable. But you will have to watch your weight on each component.
My trailer body is 12' long, 5' tall and about 5½' wide. Came in at about 1900lbs. And I would not even consider taking it out on the road without brakes.
Like Dan said, Option one is the better choice. Option 2's tongue weight is just to much.

Good luck with your build.
and remember we love lots of

Wolfgang92025 wrote:Chuckels,

1900 lbs finished trailer wight is doable. But you will have to watch your weight on each component.
My trailer body is 12' long, 5' tall and about 5½' wide. Came in at about 1900lbs. And I would not even consider taking it out on the road without brakes.
Like Dan said, Option one is the better choice. Option 2's tongue weight is just to much.

Good luck with your build.
and remember we love lots of

Thanks Wolfgang,

I was concerned that with option #1 (which is my favorite) I had to add forward storage space, a tongue box, and a second battery just to get an acceptable tongue weight. I had read elsewhere that you don't want to put all your weight out at the ends just to balance the trailer. With option #2 I have to minimize weight up front just to get down to 275 lbs... that dropped floor really limits the axle placement options but I gotta have it.

As for that 1900 lbs finished weight you speak of... please tell me that is the weight you got when packed and loaded for camping My estimate for the camper empty was about 1200 lbs. Is that out of line? I estimated it based on a 1/2" floor (3/4" in the standing area), 1/2" and 1/4" for the galley with 5/8" face frames. The walls will be 3/4" cedar studs with foam insulation, 1/4" outer skin and 1/8" inner skin. The roof will have the same plywood skins and 1-1/2" "joists". The finish will be epoxy and paint.

Having said that I'm still considering cedar strip walls in and out with a painted plywood roof. Will be good practice for the canoe I plan on building next year.

I had hoped to avoid trailer brakes but that went out the window when I started adding up all the weights.... Momma didn't raise no fool!

Going with option #1.

Now, I am thinking about putting a removable section in the roof for a screened sun/moon roof. I have seen some that were done using canvas fastened with snaps (the X-2 I believe). I was thinking of putting a lip (say 3/4" tall) on the opening then making a hardtop that can be hinged on one side or removed in really warm weather. I would just move the fantastic fan back to just above the door and put a removable section between the upper storage cabinet and the door.

Has anyone used a hard top? I was thinking it would be easier to seal, especially when travelling. In my mind I was thinking it could be fastened down tight from inside the tear. Does anyone here have any experience with removable tops?

and no...thats not what I meant. you can remove your mind from the gutter now!

Chuckles wrote:My estimate for the camper empty was about 1200 lbs. Is that out of line? I estimated it based on a 1/2" floor (3/4" in the standing area), 1/2" and 1/4" for the galley with 5/8" face frames. The walls will be 3/4" cedar studs with foam insulation, 1/4" outer skin and 1/8" inner skin. The roof will have the same plywood skins and 1-1/2" "joists". The finish will be epoxy and paint.

Chuckles,

My floor is 1/4" top with 1/8' bottom and 2" x 1/2" stringers. Drop floor is 1/2" ply. Sides are 1/4" with 3/4" stringers and 1/8" insides. Roof is 1/8", 2x1 stringer and 1/8" insides. I do have quite a few cabinets build a lot like you describe.

I think 1200 lbs is a tall order. but can be done if you watch every last ounce and build light like an airplane, vs heavy like a tank.

what about a sliding rag top like the low-rider trucks use to have you can get them in all sorts of sizes and I believe the frame that they come in is pretty strong so you shouldn't loose any strength or r you could do a trolley top to get the extra standing room there have been a lot of nice trailers on here that have done that

droid_ca wrote:what about a sliding rag top like the low-rider trucks use to have you can get them in all sorts of sizes and I believe the frame that they come in is pretty strong so you shouldn't loose any strength or r you could do a trolley top to get the extra standing room there have been a lot of nice trailers on here that have done that

Not sure what the sliding rag top is, I'll try to look it up. I do like the looks of the trolley tops but I'm thinking more along the lines of a convertible. Lots of air flow and a view of the stars on clear nights. I have seen some teardrops that have the majority of the roof screened in then covered with a snap on cover. I just thought a hard cover would be more weather tight and could be opened and closed from inside.

Chuck,

http://www.slidingragtops.com/ some food for thought

One of the reasons We love our tear is that it is well insulated and that includes sound. At Big Basin Redwoods, the last night we were there, a group of college students from San Fransisco camped around us. The organizer/chaperone came over and let us know what was happening ahead of time, and yes they were kids with attendant noise. We had no problem watching a movie and listening to the radio to drown out excessive enthusiasm (this was the first time any of them had camped).
Other camping trips, exposed to others portable noise/loud music, crying babies, barking dogs... I have been glad for the insulation.

I am thinking of doing the same thing with my roof. I think that making a removable light weight hard top in addition to a snap on vinyl top would be good. I also thought about taking a small tent and cutting a hole in the bottom ,adding snaps and using it as a standing area. I think that it would nice to be able to use different tops for different occasions.

droid_ca wrote:http://www.slidingragtops.com/ some food for thought

While that looks like a great idea I think I'm going to go with a lightweight hard top. I want to be able to assure weather tightness and I'm operating on a tight budget. I also like the idea of closing it from the inside when that midnight thunderstorm rolls in.


As I spend more time looking at aesthetics and details I'm leaning towards a woody with strip-built walls and a painted plywood roof and hatch (everything covered in fiberglass of course). I have several hundred board feet of cherry, maple, hickory, ash, and elm air dried and ready for the kiln... Mabey some contrasting strips and designs The wheels are spinning.

Here is a nice little pop up section, you can just make one to match your area where you like to stand.






I found these pic’s on some one blog. It is a 6’ wide one. the little pop up area alow the lady to stand up a bit.



Terry
Junkboy999

Thanks Terry. I never thought about attaching the screen to the sides of the hard top to create more standing area.

Since I'm planning a standy/slouchy I'll probably stick with the screen accross the opening and hinge one end with pins or some other easily removable hinge so I can take the top off completely when desired.