Mimimalism

Did you just design your very own teardrop or tiny trailer? Want to discuss it? Here's the place to post your design for discussion!

Postby vinoscooter » Sat Oct 15, 2005 4:31 pm

Not sure the type of candle your looking at,however.All open flame candle's,lamp's,lantern's...Need good clean fuel,wheather it's wax,kerosene,lamp oil,olive oil etc,& the right amount of Fresh air.depending on the type of fuel,wick,container the flame sits in...As an example: Whatever im burning,i'll stay w.the manufacture's recomendations..Useing kerosene only in a kerosene lamp..W/the same type of wick that came w/the produck..The recomended olive oil in a olive oil lamp..Ultra pure lamp oil in a wax based oil lamp..Different wicks soak up different fuels at different speeds..They also need more or less air depending on the size of the wick,material,container,Temp they burn at...All candles/lamps are a little different..By a good product,From a reliable company,(not a wallmart) that sells All the needed parts,fuels ,wicks to keep your choice of light working for years..Even my favorite little olive oil lamps from lehman's..will not bun properly if not used under the right conditions..If your outside..then a little soot don't matter..In a tear,use good lamps,the right way...they'll be just fine..1 of the easyer things you can do..is keep the fuel leval 1/2 full no lower...Lower fuel means longer time for the wick to get the fuel to the flame...If im in a survival mode..There might be more important things that need to be done..So just try to be prepared..A reliable light not taken care of...Well to me would be like takeing dead batteries w/ my new flashlight... :) All things are just my opinion..Rock on..
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Postby Laredo » Sat Oct 15, 2005 11:24 pm

so i have a couple of questions.

what about the old 'bedwarmer' concept -- there are antique ornate brass ones still around in the uk I bet -- a large shallow metal lidded container, which was filled with coals and slipped into the bed a little while before retiring; the coals were returned to the fireplace and banked to make the fire available for morning. could you create something similar for a charcoal briquet or two?

among friends / family (Scouts,Renfaire, SCA, civil war reenactors, a friend's boyfriend is a Buffalo Soldier reenactor, ) I have seen a lot of ways of keeping a fire from going out overnight. not so easy with modern synthetic materials, maybe.
but still worth considering.

second question -- one of those little coughlan's candle lanterns you can use in a tent (yeah, yeah, but if you're careful you can do this in the vestibule) that is specially designed to let you heat a drink on top of the globe?

could you vent that out with something along the lines of dryer vent?


there are some other options if your weather permits. A double layer of translucent builder's plastic arranged over a tent frame makes a fine windbreak/watershed, while allowing sunlight through to warm/dry out whatever's underneath the canopy. why a double layer, you ask?

because you want to ventilate the underneath side so the condensation forms on top of it instead of dripping directly down on you. in a pinch this water can be collected and filtered for drinking/cooking.
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Postby vinoscooter » Sun Oct 16, 2005 1:21 am

hey laredo.Howdy..Yes the bed pan thing works great..Before metal...they's just build a large fire pit..& several smal holes depending on people...Then put some coals from the fire in each hole...Put dirt over the coals,then soft, leaves over the dirt anything soft...then sleep on that...takes practice...getting it just right...Weather,type of sleeping bags etc...Once you sleep on that it's the best there is..Very bad back,the warmth from the coals penetrat'es...realley helps..Same idea as the... what about the old 'bedwarmer' concept Learned that in scouting...Im sure you did also..Dryer vent..Brings up an idea i had for the pod...When i put the 110 cover on the pod,haven't touched since..the round hole cut out is big enough for A small size section of pvc pipe...to fit through..so pre make section of small pipe,then adapter for a small piece of larger pipe,another adapter to a 6" pipe..put the smallest end in the 110 round hole..just lift up the flap..only about a foot would stick out the side..the larger pipe would catch more wind...and channel it through the small pipe into the tear...Great ventilation maybe...Or ventilation for an inside emergency heater?...going to try it before finishing the 110 on the inside...Getting late long road trip in the mourning, friends van broke down..allways liked low tech solutions..take care... :)
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Postby asianflava » Sun Oct 16, 2005 1:49 am

Heh heh the only reason I know what a bead warmer is, is because there was a spirit stuck in one on an episode of Bewitched.
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Postby bledsoe3 » Sun Oct 16, 2005 2:42 am

asianflava wrote:Heh heh the only reason I know what a bead warmer is, is because there was a spirit stuck in one on an episode of Bewitched.


The old series or the the movie with Nicole (I wish I was from down under) Kidman? :twisted:
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Postby bledsoe3 » Sun Oct 16, 2005 2:55 am

bledsoe3 wrote:
asianflava wrote:Heh heh the only reason I know what a bead warmer is, is because there was a spirit stuck in one on an episode of Bewitched.


The old series or the the movie with Nicole (I wish I was from down under) Kidman? :twisted:


BTW, she's hotter than a $2 pistol. :thumbsup: What was Tom thinking? Never mind, now he has a new young hottie! Nicole is 40+ Katie is 26. A 43 year old actor needs someting to make him feel young again :duh . Jacka$$!
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Postby Wright » Sun Oct 16, 2005 6:17 am

ok gents, finally gota few mins to do some researching. I think the wind mill might work...

The Lakota turbine by Aeromax is approximately 7 feet (2 m) in diameter and produces 900 watts of three phase power. It uses a three phase rectifier and charge controller so that it is free to spin at whatever speed is optimal for a given wind condition. Lightweight materials (the entire turbine weighs only 16kg (35 pounds)) allow it to respond quickly to the gusts of wind typical of urban settings. It attaches to a size 9 structural pipe (similar to a TV antenna mast). The Lakota is very quiet. Even when standing up on the roof right next to the mast it is inaudible. Climbing up the mast, it is still inaudible from just a few feet under the turbine. A dynamic braking system regulates the speed by dumping excess energy, so that the turbine continues to produce electricity even in high winds. The dynamic braking resistor may be installed inside the building, so that the 'heat loss' will heat the inside of the building (i.e. during high winds when more heat is lost by the building, more heat is also produced by the braking resistor). The proximal location makes low voltage (12 volt, or the like) energy distribution practical, e.g. in a typical installation the braking resistor can be located just inside to where the mast is attached to the building. Such small-scale renewable energy sources also impart a beneficial psychological effect on building owners, so that they begin to take on a keen awareness of electricity consumption, possibly reducing their consumption down to the average level that the turbine can produce.


from Wikipedia...

what do you think??
7 ft. 35lbs
could be done... like the idea of the heat sink also...

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Postby GeorgeTelford » Sun Oct 16, 2005 8:23 am

Hi

There are some newer and smaller Windgens that you might just get to sleep by (me I would probably sleep near any No problem) I doubt a 7 footer would be quiet enough for most people
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Postby tahrndt » Wed Oct 19, 2005 10:51 am

Here is an original olive oil lamp from ~0 BC/AD, I have a recreation of this type that I bought in Portugal last summer. It is about the size of a deck of cards and holds an ounce or 2 of oil, it will burn for about 4-6 hours depending upon drafts and how large of a flame you want.
Image


Another couple of ideas to warm the inside of a TD might be:
1. when making your cooking fire set up a couple of cast iron weights (like the barbell kind used for weight lifting) next to the heat source. The iron will heat up then transfer them (with tongs or gloves) to an insulated radiating box inside the trailer.

2. Make a firebox in the galley area of the TD and place a small wood stove there. Have the vent/chimney routed through the sleeping space then to the roof. The combustion would take place outside of the sleeping space, so CO would be eliminated from the cabin. If you made a small vent at the top of the galley to allow warm air to move up the tear shape into the cabin that also would promote warming.
Correct me if I am wrong here but I believe that CO is denser than air, thereby causing it to "sink" (NEVER EVER BUILD A FIRE IN A DEEP CAVE!!!) So at the bottom of the galley area have another vent for the CO to escape from. Just make sure you have a CO and Fire detector in the cabin area and a fire extinguisher in the cabin and galley areas.
I know a fire can be a dangerous thing, but this is a survival situation after all and using the rule of 3's the human body can only stand 3 hours or less in freezing weather. 3 days without water and 3 weeks without food. (this is just a basic rule of thumb to let you know where to put your priorities)
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Postby vinoscooter » Wed Oct 19, 2005 9:58 pm

been long day..road trip to idaho..powerball tickets..bar,food..back home..interesting concept..I have something similar only smaller..Me want one :
http://www.thermette.com/thermette_how-to.htm

http://www.thermette.com/


Wow, great old lamp..will break if dropped.. :( Carry back up..non-breakable landle lamp... :) vinoscooter..
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Postby Laredo » Wed Oct 19, 2005 11:03 pm

ultralite backpack fiends have built a durable tea-candle lamp out of an old plastic coke bottle and part of a pop can.


Image

ordinarily i wouldn't go that far but if you are talking survival there is merit to it. it uses readily available (throwaway!) materials.
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Postby Paulyboy » Thu Oct 20, 2005 10:13 am

GeorgeTelford wrote:Hi Mike

If insulation were perfect (I know it cant be, we have to breath after all) then once set at a temperature it would remain forever. Of course this cannot be achieved, but with good insulation very low heating and cooling requirements can be achieved.

So the reality is we have to replace the losses


As for heating, with airtight insulation, and a normal 6-8 hour sleep, what about oxygen starvation? Lotta carbon dioxide exhaled, no new oxygen to replenish the air.
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Postby madjack » Thu Oct 20, 2005 10:22 am

Paulyboy wrote:As for heating, with airtight insulation, and a normal 6-8 hour sleep, what about oxygen starvation? Lotta carbon dioxide exhaled, no new oxygen to replenish the air.


...standard disclaimer for all TD camping....NEVER SLEEP IN A COMPLETELY SEALED TEARDROP...YOU MAY NEVER WAKE UP
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Postby GeorgeTelford » Thu Oct 20, 2005 11:12 am

Hi Paulyboy

Note I did say we have to breath......

If insulation were perfect (I know it cant be, we have to breath after all)
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Postby Laredo » Thu Oct 20, 2005 10:15 pm

i think you could vent the tealight lantern with a length of hose.

i would plan on having a roof vent open a little. heat rises.
might want to have a computer fan bringing in fresh air as well.
can run those a long time on very little electricity.
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