CNC Design

[capnTelescope]

Hi everybody,

I made a little sawdust today, cutting out the framing pieces for the left side. I laid them out over my drawing to check for fit and accuracy. Before I glue this up, I need to stitch an extension piece to the plywood to get my 10 foot length. I'm going to join under the frame piece for the aft bulkhead, so it can back up the joint. then I'll have to add about 3 feet on that to get to 10 feet.





Getting ready to make router dust takes a lot of attention and detail so you can get everything done in one setup. I've spent the last couple of days reviewing and revising my drawing. I'll put up the latest version DXF after I get the first side done.

[halfdome, Danny]

Don't know how far you are from New Mexico but Denco Sales sells a variety of anodized aluminum.
I've used the bright brushed on two teardrops and really like the stuff.
Danny

http://www.dencosales.com/
Denco Sales, Albuquerque, NM
2211 Commercial St NE
Albuquerque, NM 87102
Sales & Credit Department Contacts
Phone: 505.830.0212
Toll Free: 800.379.0435
Fax: 505.830.0213

[tony.latham]

You do own a car? That you keep in or near the house?

It doesn't surprise me that someone tried it already. I haven't hardly ever had an original thought, but many times I thought I did.

I did some looking for bright (shiny) anodized aluminum and found 4x10 sheets for ~$125 plus shipping. That sound about right to you? They didn't say where they were. shipping could cost more than the metal. I also found a place in the DFW area: Wrisco Industries.

Also there is bright gold anodized. That would be different. I doubt anyone makes trim extrusions in that color, though. Drat.

Was Ralph's Pizza still there when you were? They did me some harm a time or two. I don't remember Sparky's. There's a couple of possible reasons why.

I think my 4x10 sheets of .040 5052 non-anodized were $65 in Missoula. That $125 plus shipping sounds high, even for the anodized. I skipped that finish since I needed some 5' wide for the roof and they couldn't get it in that width.

TL

[capnTelescope]

Danny -- Well heck, I'm only about a day & a half's drive from ABQ. no problem. Your tear does look good in the brushed bright. That chrome fender looks even better!

DFW is only 3-4 hours. They had it, too.

Tony -- Sounded high to me, too. I wouldn't think anodizing would be that expensive. These guys must be trying to pay for their high search engine ranking.

I keep thinking about that gold bright. Oh forget it. If I was making a Roswell, though...

[aggie79]

Brad,

I love the setup and technique. Are you gluing the framing to the plywood before you route?

I did some looking for bright (shiny) anodized aluminum and found 4x10 sheets for ~$125 plus shipping. That sound about right to you? They didn't say where they were. shipping could cost more than the metal. I also found a place in the DFW area: Wrisco Industries.

Also there is bright gold anodized. That would be different. I doubt anyone makes trim extrusions in that color, though. Drat.

That's about what I paid 5 years ago. I think I had the mirror bright or bright clear anodizing. I know when I ordered it they were going to charge shipping if I needed it right away or I could wait until their regular restocking delivery truck came around in 2-3 weeks. I waited and saved the shipping money. Regal Plastics is where I bought my aluminum. I believe they have an office in Austin.

Was Ralph's Pizza still there when you were? They did me some harm a time or two. I don't remember Sparky's. There's a couple of possible reasons why.

Yes, Ralph's was one of my haunts. Sparky's was at Eastgate - Texas and Walton - just across from the main entrance to the campus. On Tuesday's you could purchase a pitcher of beer for the price of your class - in my case 79 cents.

Take care,
Tom

[capnTelescope]

After I do a little router work to get to ten feet, I'll glue the framing to the outside ply, let that dry, Wire & insulate, then glue the interior oak veneer ply, then rout. I will intentionally position framing members such that they get routed for dimensional accuracy where it counts. That way I can slop in the framing (say, within a half inch) and achieve good accuracy later. The wall assembly should come off the router ready for outside skin and interior wood finish and it's ready to mount. At that point, the Tear should assemble quite quickly, with precise mounting points for anything structural. This will leave only minor finishing stuff. (famous last words)

If this was clear as mud, all will be revealed as progress progresses.

[capnTelescope]

I've started to make a little sawdust. Time to start a build thread: viewtopic.php?f=50&t=58223