5x10 Benroy

[noseoil]

OK people, here's a working design I'm going to build in the future. It will be a simple 5x10 benroy with 2" tube frame, 3/4" skeletonized plywood sides, aluminum skins and whatever I can afford inside for finish & comfort.

My question is about the axle setup now. I'm thinking the 2000# Flexiride would be best, but down-rated to about 1500# for this version (target weight of 1200#) with a "start" angle of 22 degrees. If I'm pulling with a Nissan Frontier & a hitch height of about 13"-14" what am I looking at for a tire size to keep things level? I'd like to pull with 15" rims to match the truck and tow easier on bumps. I can adjust the ride height by choosing the correct aspect ratio of the tire. Best guess from the folks here on where I'll end up and comments on this type of axle? Would a Dexter be better? Best place to buy the axle and any tips on setting it up properly (cost, shipping, etc.)? All input greatly appreciated. thanks for looking, tim

[citylights]

OK people, here's a working design I'm going to build in the future. It will be a simple 5x10 benroy with 2" tube frame, 3/4" skeletonized plywood sides, aluminum skins and whatever I can afford inside for finish & comfort.

My question is about the axle setup now. I'm thinking the 2000# Flexiride would be best, but down-rated to about 1500# for this version (target weight of 1200#) with a "start" angle of 22 degrees. If I'm pulling with a Nissan Frontier & a hitch height of about 13"-14" what am I looking at for a tire size to keep things level? I'd like to pull with 15" rims to match the truck and tow easier on bumps. I can adjust the ride height by choosing the correct aspect ratio of the tire. Best guess from the folks here on where I'll end up and comments on this type of axle? Would a Dexter be better? Best place to buy the axle and any tips on setting it up properly (cost, shipping, etc.)? All input greatly appreciated. thanks for looking, tim

I think your weight estimate for skeletonized 3/4 plywood is light. You need to remove a lot of material to get down to that weight, and then you still have to put a wood skin and the aluminum that you mention. 3/4 inch plywood and light just don't go well together. Just saying, if you want to go lightweight, you need to carry that through the entire teardrop.

I did not skeletonize my 3/4 inch plywood, I built a little stout, and my dry weight aluminum skin 5x10 benroy is 1750#. Now, I have a 2000# dexter axel that I am going to field test and really make it run for the money. I wish I had started with a 2500# axel for the safety factor and if I am going to replace it, it will be with the 3000# axel. But then again, I plan for offroad use in addition to the teardrop weight.

Just some thoughts. Good luck.

[noseoil]

John, thanks for your reply. The pattern you see in the sketch of the side is the 3/4" plywood side, cut out for the "frame" for sides. It will have 1/8" skins inside & outside for shear panels. I'm planning on 1 x 2 spars for the roof, 1/8" ceiling & roof panels, all covered with .032 aluminum skins. I'm sure I haven't thought through all of the weight issues, but hopefully I can do some light, strong stuff to cut weight and still have a good tight box.

I took a quick look at your build (at work still) and it does look plenty stout! What thickness skin did you use for aluminum? It looks thick, but I can't tell from the pictures. Best, tim

[citylights]

John, thanks for your reply. The pattern you see in the sketch of the side is the 3/4" plywood side, cut out for the "frame" for sides. It will have 1/8" skins inside & outside for shear panels. I'm planning on 1 x 2 spars for the roof, 1/8" ceiling & roof panels, all covered with .032 aluminum skins. I'm sure I haven't thought through all of the weight issues, but hopefully I can do some light, strong stuff to cut weight and still have a good tight box.

I took a quick look at your build (at work still) and it does look plenty stout! What thickness skin did you use for aluminum? It looks thick, but I can't tell from the pictures. Best, tim

Think about weight at every step and keep it light. Maybe you will reach your weight goal... Every time I made a decision it was for stronger, heavier, and you see the result.

Anyway, my aluminum skin is 0.032. That is a nice thickness. Easy to bend and work with. I have read about people going to 0.05, but not thicker. At 0.05 they complain about it being harder to work.

[noseoil]

I'm wondering if a 1200# target weight is even realistic now for a 5X10, without going to exotic materials like we used in aircraft cabinetry. With frame & panel construction for joinery, 1/8" skins wherever possible, the usual amenities and not too much in gear (no microwave but a 5K A/C unit running on shore power plus a group 27 battery for 12 v power & 65 watt solar panel) is this a realistic target weight? Still looking for a thread which posts all-up weights and relative sizes. Is there one out there which I've missed in a search?

I still need to order an axle, but don't want to go too light on the weight rating. I'm thinking a 2000# axle would be too stiff for a nice ride & tow. If you have a moment, could you post to this thread with your basic build type, overall box dimensions, a finished picture & the actual rolling weight? Thanks, tim

[citylights]

I'm wondering if a 1200# target weight is even realistic now for a 5X10, without going to exotic materials like we used in aircraft cabinetry. With frame & panel construction for joinery, 1/8" skins wherever possible, the usual amenities and not too much in gear (no microwave but a 5K A/C unit running on shore power plus a group 27 battery for 12 v power & 65 watt solar panel) is this a realistic target weight? Still looking for a thread which posts all-up weights and relative sizes. Is there one out there which I've missed in a search?

I still need to order an axle, but don't want to go too light on the weight rating. I'm thinking a 2000# axle would be too stiff for a nice ride & tow. If you have a moment, could you post to this thread with your basic build type, overall box dimensions, a finished picture & the actual rolling weight? Thanks, tim

I think this is the teardrop weight information you are looking for:

http://www.tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=56787

It looks like there are a few your size right at 1200#. Most are up an 1500# though by the time you get that size. Then mine is on the upper outlier! Mine does have a 50# battery, 50# AC unit, microwave, under storage box and a few other extras that bust the scales.

Other than weight and rating, don't worry about the ride of the axel. The ride comes from the springs. And on the torsion axel without the springs, the ride is determined by the adjustable angle and down rating.

[noseoil]

John, thanks. that's what I was looking for. Maybe a sticky on this one under general build information?

[alaska teardrop]

Welcome Tim

It sounds like you've done your research, but if you haven't already seem them, these two threads about Dexter axles & ride height are well worth studying:

viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14125

viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7214

Flexiride would have similar design specifications, but allows a certain amount of ride height adjustment within a recommended range.

Also, Andrew's Tongue strength page in helping to design your chassis:

http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/t ... tear84.htm

Designing carefully with respect to chassis material choices can save a lot of weight.

In regard to torsion axle rating, if you can, build a simple roll around dolly for the chassis while building, weigh the finished trailer loaded with your stuff & then order the axle. In my experience a torsion axle that is rated no more then 2-300# over the gross weight rides smoothest.

As far as matching the trailer ride height to the truck hitch, are you aware that, if you have a slide in ball mount receiver, that you can change the ball mount to match the trailer?

Enjoy your project. Send pics

Fred

[noseoil]

Fred, thanks so much for posting this information. It's more of what I've been looking for but couldn't find. The more I do the research, the more I realize that these little trailers are really quite sophisticated in their design & build requirements. That's not saying you can't bang one together in a couple of sessions that works well enough, just that there's more planning involved than I had first imagined. I'll keep refining things until I have a design which I feel comfortable with, then will start a build. At this rate, it won't be sooner but later.

Again, thanks to those who have taken the time to post to this thread. It is greatly appreciated. What a group of people! tim

[noseoil]

Here's a picture of the "new" trailer from this weekend. There was an ad in craigslist for a 5' x 8' flat top, so I went to take a look. This one is close enough to what I wanted, so I grabbed it and will start design work on something new. It has a 4" deep channel frame, 2000# axle, tool box on the front, diamond plate top (pity, that will have to go) and should work out well enough. Down-side is that it only has 13" tires & wheels, but is very well made and I can increase to 14" rims if I want to later on. The deck is actually 5' x 8'-5" as it sits now, with the 10" x 40" fuel storage tray and tool box in front of that. Spare tire sits under the tool box on a mount. The 5x10 is now looking more like a 5' x 8'6"

I'm going to have to do a couple of mods along the way, but it was cheaper than building from scratch and close to what I had already planned. Gave $650 for it, so what do you think?

[citylights]

Nice looking trailer!

Is that the picture or is the front curved in to make the tongue V? Square box bottom easy to build teardrop too. Curved sides are more challenging!

For the area I live in, you got a good deal on the trailer.

If you take the diamond plate deck off, save the pieces to armor your teardrop from tow vehicle thrown rocks. Mine is aluminum skinned and the front has taken some dings from the rocks. I will eventually cover those areas with aluminum diamond plate.

[noseoil]

Yes, it has curved sides in the frame box (4" x 1 1/2" "C" channel) and is extremely well made. The welds are beautiful (Taiwan manufacture & must have been made in a ship yard or something). I'm going to ignore the curve and run the sides straight (front to back) for a conventional build as I don't want to worry about curves up front. The plywood walls & floor will support a short overhang like this without any trouble. Will take up the deck (it's 1/8" diamond plate!) and replace it with 5/8" plywood, but I will be using the original deck for edges along the frame & in front for rocks, scuffs & dings. Nice to have some material to start with.

I just weighed it and it's a hog right now. Front roller weight is 110# and at the wheels (as is) the weight is at 250# each, so it weighs in at 610#. I figure there's about 75# of aluminum to remove, so starting weight will be around 540#. I'd like to keep the front tool box for now, as it will come in handy, but will have to see about weight distribution as I go. This is the all-up weight and includes the spare tire & rim mounted under the tool box/tray area.

I'm really pleased with what I found and am working on drawings now to work with things as they are. Only real glitch so far is the front area at the curve. It actually measures 60 1/2" at the widest point, so I will be adding 1/2" to the overall width. I'm thinking I can still use .032" X 60" aluminum for the roof skin & cover the (1/4" per side) gap which will exist with aluminum angle trim & the gooey-pucker tape for a water tight shell. More to follow....

[Sheddie]

Hi Noseoil.
Trailer looks like a great base for your project. How has the build progressed since this? Enjoy the build and better still enjoy the using of it.
Cheers Sheddie.

[noseoil]

I'm moved over to the build section, but here's the finished design, just for an update and to finish this thread. The tool box will be turned to open from the front and the shelf removed. A new propane bottle sits in front of the tool box, just behind the hitch & front jack, 1/2" black iron pipe for the run to the galley. Build is stretched to a 9' 3" LOA on the frame, all the room I can use. I'll use 4' ply for the sides, so a 6" aluminum diamond plate will cover the lower edge of the frame as a skirt. Here's the finished design, at least with the major stuff included.

There will be a 5K BTU AC unit in front just above the tool box, a group 27 battery in the galley (vented to the outside) & solar panel, shore power inlet on the driver's side (for AC & the galley when parked near shore power or for 2KW Honda). Galley will have a Camp Chef stove/oven, ice chest & storage. LED lights for running & all other needs. Target weight is 1200#, but I think it is too optimistic, we'll see... Here's the "working drawing" I will be building from, for now.

[Junkboy999]

Looks like a Plan.


I know this would be a big headache because you have to make electricals hook up removable and gas lines. But if you have a nice strong teardrop shell. You could off load the teardrop and still have access to a flatbed trailer. It has been done before.