Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers

S. Heisley wrote:John: If you haven't already done it, please check what your DMV/DOT allows for weight. The last time I checked, a trailer without brakes had to weigh less than 1,000 pounds in NY state. I think NY has the toughest rules of any of our states and they may differ in other areas as well.

In Quebec, the limit is 3000 lbs. In NY, 1000 lbs appears to be just the trailer weight, and also 3000 lbs total weight. Not sure if once it's built, what you added to the original trailer becomes the new trailer?

I've made some significant weight cutting to my floor/storage area, here's the new plan:

1. The base is 6mm twin wall polycarbonate over the trailer frame, but with an extra layer of 1/2 ply in the front to support heavy items like the window AC when not in use. This was also necessary due to the trailer framing.


2. The support for the top floor is now 1.5x1.5 for the vertical studs, and 1x1.5 for to flats. The middle piece is basically just help to keep to keep the polycarbonate tight to the frame and to separate/guide the future drawers. Because of the new top design, I don't think I need middle support. Maybe just one to be safe.


3. I decided to go with a composite top floor, to increase top clearance for the front storage, make a more solid floor and reduce total weight. The current design is using 1/8 ply in the bottom, true 1x3 lumber for the long pieces and 1x2 for the cross pieces, plus 1/4 ply on the top.


I estimate this section at 105 lbs, excluding the exterior vertical ply that will solidify the perimeter, and the hardware to hold it together.

Solid enough? Any suggestions for the thickness of the exterior ply for this section?

Maybe you are already planning to do this, but fill the gaps in the floor system with xps or eps foam. That will improve the stiffness of the floor while adding very little weight. You get insulation too!

Pmullen503 wrote:Maybe you are already planning to do this, but fill the gaps in the floor system with xps or eps foam. That will improve the stiffness of the floor while adding very little weight. You get insulation too!

For the floor, absolutely, especially if it improves stiffness and minimize the need for central support. For the "floor walls", I'm just planning exterior ply, screwed to the studs, with "the mix" and paint; no foam or PMF here. I would like to be able to remove these panels if needed, for repairs and such. So I'm looking for something that will be enough to brace the vertical studs together with base plate, so it becomes a solid wall I can attach the top floor to. Since the top section is 1.5 wider, I was thinking of using galvanized L brackets at each stud to secure the connection, with bolts.

JohnRock wrote:

S. Heisley wrote:John: If you haven't already done it, please check what your DMV/DOT allows for weight. The last time I checked, a trailer without brakes had to weigh less than 1,000 pounds in NY state. I think NY has the toughest rules of any of our states and they may differ in other areas as well.

In Quebec, the limit is 3000 lbs. In NY, 1000 lbs appears to be just the trailer weight, and also 3000 lbs total weight. Not sure if once it's built, what you added to the original trailer becomes the new trailer?

I think so, not counting contents, i.e. food, clothes, pots & pans, etc. You could call and ask but I think they probably mean "factory weight" of the trailer, finished with the cabin on. That would only be fair to everyone, manufactured trailer or home built. Think Camp Inn, Little Guy, etc. Once you have your license, most don't care; unless you are in an accident because your vehicle's brakes fail or something like that, but it's good to know and plan for that if you can.