AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

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Re: AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

Postby working on it » Sat Jul 21, 2018 3:37 pm

rebar wrote:
working on it wrote:If I ever "hacked" a 5k window unit, I would use a large rectangular shroud covering the entire front of the unit (with a divider separating the intake from exhaust), connected to the trailer via a short rubber accordion boot/truck camper pass-thru gasket. The A/C unit would sit above ground level on a side-table secured as usual, so it wouldn't fall, and the exhaust and chassis cooling would be left to nature, not having to flow thru too small flex hoses. Just an easier solution to hoses. I wish I hadn't done my complicated exhaust duct, but instead, just use a short accordion boot to vent out mu closed hatch...I've thought about this easy-out method for awhile, now.[*]
accordion boot seal.jpg

Thanks. Here's another idea for your accordion boot seal.

The evaporator squirrel cage moves the cooled air upward, and then forces it around a tight 90 degree internal elbow to the front grill. In order to allow even more cfm to be moved, why not blank off the internal elbow, and cut a rectangular hole in the top of the window shaker? This would allow more cfm because we have omitted a inefficient short sweet elbow .. Then use your accordion boot rectangular "duct" to connect the new cold air supply hole on top, through the trailer floor to a plenum inside the trailer? Or a rectangle to round "boot" if you dont have enough room under the trailer.
Regular flexible Return duct is fine. Its the supply air that needs a easy slippery path, and with the above design, if you looked down the trailer supply plenum you would see the squirrel cage blower. Cant get much better than that and not have to worry about any other support booster fans.

Window shakers were never designed to be mounted inside anything other than a window, and will run hotter with shorter lifespan if not supplied enough fresh condenser air. From what I remember, the beauty of a window shaker design is that it uses one motor to move evaporator air and condenser air.
  • The accordion boot seal is just meant to totally remove the right-angle vent register boot/ducting from the equation. It will be a straight connection to the hatch vent (not installed, nor needed, until a window unit replacement makes the conversion worthwhile!), so the unit can still run with a closed hatch. If operated while the hatch is raised, the accordion will point the exhaust straight back (making standing there quite hot), still far away from being a source of contamination for the condenser/chassis cooling air, which will still be drawn-in thru a side vent, pulled thru by the case fan. This way, I'll only have to install a shutter/directional vent on the hatch door, and no holes on top or bottom of the trailer. Simple. No hoses, ducts, or extra lines to mess with, and I'll free up much-needed room in the galley.
  • I have no worries about the hot exhaust mixing with the required cooler air needed for the chassis cooling; a regular home window unit has no such barrier (like my sealed ducting, accordion boot extension, or sidewall-vent ambient air cooling intake), but draws in whatever temperature air is nearby; in my experience, the window units are drawing in their own exhaust in the still, stagnant, hot summer air (100-110 degrees, usually, in the Texas sun), and live many years doing so. I've only had one A/C window unit fail (except for 1 punctured coil, and 1 with a bad fan bearing) over 60+ years of dealing with them, under those conditions. That unit, an old Fedders from 1960?, that ran night and day in my bedroom, from May 1st to mid-late October, and finally wore out, shortly after I left home following HS graduation (1969-70). It wasn't thermostatically controlled, had only Hi-Lo outputs, and just plain worked itself to death. It sat in a tight space between two homes, mostly blocked from any breeze...the only air it had nearby was already heated by the exhaust. Almost 20 years of constant 1/2 year usage, seems like a long life to me. P.S. It was a window unit, mounted thru a wall, so I could still have a view...of the neighbor's garage wall.
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Re: AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

Postby Socal Tom » Sun Jul 22, 2018 5:53 pm

Shadow Catcher wrote:My goal was to make this easily portable and while you can make this more efficient I have two four inch holes and left it home this last week while we were north of Lake Superior (ran the heater one night).

Shadow Catcher, your idea is a great one. Its worked for me for several summers now. The CFM is fine, despite what the guys above who haven't done it believe.
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Re: AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

Postby pinkelephant » Thu Oct 25, 2018 8:53 pm

I'm planning a trailer and this mod saves so many headaches. I plan to hook up a digital thermometer in the trailer to a relay to control an outside plug so the AC only needs power and ducting. I want the AC to be plug n play so it can hook to a tent also. I may even set up an inside plug to another relay to make a dumb electric heater into a smart one. Realizing this concept I'm going to hook up a dumb 12,000 BTU window unit in my house to my internet connected thermostat to make my AC controllable and programmable. 12,000 seems to be the biggest one Wal mart sells without fancy controls.

They sell speed controllers for duct fan boosters. ... B01KJPMZYO
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Re: AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

Postby pinkelephant » Thu Nov 01, 2018 5:47 pm

Why isn't this a sticky?

What came first? the climate right or this thread?

Has anyone considered buying these hoses and 2 sets of 4" or 5" lock rings instead of making homemade hoses?
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Re: AC Hacking a Figidaire 5000 BTU

Postby Shadow Catcher » Mon Nov 05, 2018 5:58 pm

This came about out of my frustration with a Climateright :x
I have an expensive digital thermostat which I could not get to play well with the AC and using the one out of the AC itself and running the control wires through the intake hose has worked well.
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