Would anyone mind looking over my electrical schematic?

[robctc]

I've done loads of research, but this is my first foray into building an electrical system, so I'd appreciate the insight of those who are more familiar. So far the inverter/charger/transfer and the batteries are purchased, everything else is just planned.

My main concerns are:
- If I have fuses in the correct places, or if I need more.

- If this is the proper use of a bus bar. As far as I know it is, but it seems odd to me that the battery could be sending 250-300 amps to the inverter/charger while the fuse box is only rated for 100 amps on the same connection.

- If the fuse on the battery is sized correctly. 250 amps at 12V is 3000 watts for the inverter, and the battery can discharge up to 360 amps for 3 minutes, and the inverter can run at 3600 watts for 5 minutes (300 amps @ 12V). So, a 300 amp fuse should be more than fine, especially since I don't even have 3000 watts of things to run. A window unit, toaster, and hairdryer running at the same time might get close, but I'd never try to do that on batteries anyway.

Other things to note:
- The Samlex EVO has inputs for an external charger (solar) so it can add any solar amps to its normal charging program, so the solar charger doesn't need to be connected to the batteries.

- The AC panel has a switch for a main breaker that can be wired to be separate from the sub panel circuits, so normally two panels are used here, but I'm using one to save space.

- This system is going into a 7x14 cargo trailer.


Here's the link to the full resolution image. https://i.imgur.com/3tbeNaTl.jpg

[troubleScottie]

Possible issues:

I think a 300A fuse might be a bit much. I presume that is due to the inverter.

Your inverter needs a switch to disconnect from the battery. Otherwise it is always on, which will run down your battery even while towing or parked unless the battery is turned off.

I am not sure about running everything AC via the inverter. Generally the inverter is used to address specific issues. Look at full sized RV systems with much bigger battery storage. If you are boondocking, you will be without most AC driven equipment. Also the drain on your battery could be substantial.

Your solar should be directly connect to the battery rather than your inverter. One, you inverter may be off. Two, you most likely do not want the extra length in the wiring. Technically as wired, your mppt is connected to the battery.

Watch your ground to frame connections. Depending on the trailer, different areas may or may not be connected electrically.

No knowing about your EVO 3012, it appears you have no AC Charger for the battery. I am surprised that the charger pos and the input pos for the inverter/charger are the same. Again, technically they could be. Also, assuming Li battery, is the EVO 3012 designed for Li? Most chargers are not.

I would assume your AC loads are a 3 wire connections -- and you are adding GFCI outlets.

[robctc]

- I think a 300A fuse might be a bit much. I presume that is due to the inverter.

Yes, its sized to the potential output of the inverter, but you might be right. It would be cheaper to size it smaller and avoid running larger than needed wires everywhere, especially when I don't even have enough power needs to create 300A.

- Your inverter needs a switch to disconnect from the battery. Otherwise it is always on, which will run down your battery even while towing or parked unless the battery is turned off.

Thats a good point. I should put a second switch between the + bus bar and the inverter so I can keep the battery running DC but cut off the inverter.

- I am not sure about running everything AC via the inverter. Generally the inverter is used to address specific issues. Look at full sized RV systems with much bigger battery storage. If you are boondocking, you will be without most AC driven equipment. Also the drain on your battery could be substantial.

I'm designing the system so AC is not the priority. I definitely don't have plans to have lots of AC things plugged in all the time, especially with inverter ghost draw.

- Your solar should be directly connect to the battery rather than your inverter. One, you inverter may be off. Two, you most likely do not want the extra length in the wiring. Technically as wired, your mppt is connected to the battery.

Normally true, but the Samlex EVO series is designed with connections for an external charger. This is because there is also a separate AC input for a generator, so the computer in the inverter can give priority to solar over generator, combining both to keep the battery charged. The inverter doesn't drain extra power if the actual inverter isn't running.

- Watch your ground to frame connections. Depending on the trailer, different areas may or may not be connected electrically.

All good here, my trailer frame is fully welded steel at all points

- No knowing about your EVO 3012, it appears you have no AC Charger for the battery. I am surprised that the charger pos and the input pos for the inverter/charger are the same. Again, technically they could be. Also, assuming Li battery, is the EVO 3012 designed for Li? Most chargers are not.

The EVO is designed to be an all in one kind of solution. When connected to shore power it will charge the battery, and I've been realizing this means it wires differently than every other mobile system, but oddly enough this is correct according to the manual. It can be programmed for lithium with a remote panel. I definitely checked that before buying it.

- I would assume your AC loads are a 3 wire connections -- and you are adding GFCI outlets.

Yes and yes. Thanks for your insight!