Best connector to Tap-In to a wire?

Anything electric, AC or DC

Re: Three way connectors and American Boat and Yacht Council

Postby Dale M. » Mon Nov 13, 2006 12:46 pm

kayakrguy wrote:Hi folks,

I have been using 'Boatowner's Illustrated Handbook of Wiring' by Charlie Wing (McGraw-Hill 1993) as a general guide to my wiring thoughts.

On page 192 of same, he lists the Amerian Boat and Yacht Council's approved and disapproved! connectors. The 3 way crimp is one of the approved connectors--see below--I wish the picture was a bit better but it is readable...

Image

So, readers can make up their own minds whether to use the 3 way connector but can do so knowing ABYC approves them for use on YACHTS! 8)

Jim


With that approval and a couple of bucks, you can get a cup of coffee...

I don't really think the approval means very much knowing characteristics (short circuit ability) of connector.....

Dale
Lives his life vicariously through his own self.

Any statement made by me are strictly my own opinion.
You are free to ignore anything I say if you do not agree.

Image
User avatar
Dale M.
2000 Club
2000 Club
 
Posts: 2693
Images: 18
Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2005 8:50 pm
Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite National Park

Postby Phil & Ningning » Sun Nov 19, 2006 11:55 am

First, a little background. I work as an aircraft instrument technician (12 years), and have quite a few years in trucking and auto repair before that. I too, know what constitutes good and not-so-good connections.

I agree that the absolute best way to make a wiring connection is to solder. After soldering, there should be insulating varnish (it's reddish-brown) applied to the connection prior to the shrink tube to keep out all air and moisture. That being said, there is more than one way to skin a cat.

The biggest electrical problems I encounter are not shorts, but intermittent, erratic connections. Usually these are due to poor soldering technique, and I would definitely advise that if you are not completely confident of your soldering skills that you steer clear of this method. It is highly likely that you would create a system that works fine initially and then deteriorates fairly quickly. A year or two down the road, you could be looking at reskinning your trailer because your lights won't stop flickering.

I would also hesitate to use the much-discussed three-way crimp connector. Though I have never actually seen one of these, that rivet in the middle looks like a likely source of problems, not to mention the problems insulating it.

For my money (and my trailer) a butt connecor using a quality crimper will do the trick. You MUST use the one that makes a u-shaped crimp. Those cheap ones from the auto parts store simply will not be reliable. To make a 3 way connection with a butt connector, you should use the size that you can comfortably fit two wires of the same gauge into on one end, and then strip the third wire and double it over before inserting it into the other end. Crimp tight. use a toothpick to dab a little RTV silicone in the ends and where the crimper broke through to seal out the elements and your done. Be sure to go easy on the RTV. A little goes a long way.
User avatar
Phil & Ningning
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 103
Images: 65
Joined: Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:38 am
Location: Corona, CA

Postby kayakrguy » Thu Nov 23, 2006 9:34 am

Phil & Ningning wrote:
snip....


....For my money (and my trailer) a butt connecor using a quality crimper will do the trick. You MUST use the one that makes a u-shaped crimp. Those cheap ones from the auto parts store simply will not be reliable. To make a 3 way connection with a butt connector, you should use the size that you can comfortably fit two wires of the same gauge into on one end, and then strip the third wire and double it over before inserting it into the other end. Crimp tight. use a toothpick to dab a little RTV silicone in the ends and where the crimper broke through to seal out the elements and your done. Be sure to go easy on the RTV. A little goes a long way.


Phil,

Good note, I agree about solder being good but NOT if you don't do it right!! Which, I am not sure I could do without a LOT of practice.

Your tip about using butt connectors instead of the 3 way connector is interesting. As a practical matter, you seem to be suggesting that two #14 wires could be mated with one #12, properly crimped and sealed.
Corerect?

Also, I have never heard of insulating varnish or RTV--where get them?

Thanks again for a thoughtful note..

Jim
A disposition to preserve, and an ability to improve, taken together, would be my standard of a statesman...

But what is liberty without wisdom, and without virtue? It is the greatest of all possible evils; for it is folly, vice, and madness, without tuition or restraint.

Edmund Burke
User avatar
kayakrguy
Lifetime member
 
Posts: 917
Images: 195
Joined: Sun Feb 05, 2006 8:26 pm
Location: Jersey Shore
Top

Postby Phil & Ningning » Thu Nov 23, 2006 2:25 pm

Insulating varnish is a slightly rubbery liquid that is brushed on any surface to keep out the elements. It can get messy before it dries. You can get it at any electronics supply house that isn't Radio Shack. The bottle currently on my bench at work is made by GC Electronics, I think. We use it to seal solder connections, lock down small screws, variable resistors, anywhere we want to be extra sure something won't come loose or get wet. Keep in mind that everything I use it on for locking purposes is much smaller than anything on a teardrop. It is not strong enough to lock any screws on these trailers. Use Loctite for that.
RTV stands for room temperature vulcanizing. It is simply a silicone rubber sealant commonly (and often incorrectly) used for sealing gaskets in automotive work. The most common is manufactured by Permatex.
User avatar
Phil & Ningning
Teardrop Master
 
Posts: 103
Images: 65
Joined: Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:38 am
Location: Corona, CA
Top

Postby alexgray104 » Thu Nov 23, 2006 5:04 pm

Phil & Ningning wrote:Insulating varnish is a slightly rubbery liquid that is brushed on any surface to keep out the elements. It can get messy before it dries. You can get it at any electronics supply house that isn't Radio Shack. The bottle currently on my bench at work is made by GC Electronics, I think. We use it to seal solder connections, lock down small screws, variable resistors, anywhere we want to be extra sure something won't come loose or get wet. Keep in mind that everything I use it on for locking purposes is much smaller than anything on a teardrop. It is not strong enough to lock any screws on these trailers. Use Loctite for that.
RTV stands for room temperature vulcanizing. It is simply a silicone rubber sealant commonly (and often incorrectly) used for sealing gaskets in automotive work. The most common is manufactured by Permatex.


Hi, I am no expert in this field or electrics in general! But is it red in colour and sometimes used on the screws inside PC's and stuff???

Alex
alexgray104
Teardrop Builder
 
Posts: 33
Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2006 3:03 pm
Location: Somerset, UK.
Top

Previous

Return to Electrical Secrets

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 9 guests