Need power converter

Anything electric, AC or DC

Postby mikeschn » Mon Aug 08, 2005 8:05 pm

I am looking for a 12v converter that I can mount on a wall. A quick search yielded mostly the pc power supply converted ones. I would like to just buy one off the shelf.

Any good suggestions? Links?

Thanks,

Mike...
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Postby mikeschn » Mon Aug 08, 2005 8:54 pm

Ah, I found one... what do you think of this?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... XEG99&P=FR

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Postby Endo » Mon Aug 08, 2005 9:03 pm

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Postby Ken A Hood » Mon Aug 08, 2005 9:24 pm

I got mine (30 Amp and controller) on eBay. I emailed them 1st to let them know what I was using it for. They said the 30 Amp would be plenty. And I think the 45 Amp they have now is cheaper than what I paid for my 30 Amp....The also have a 45 Amp with the controller for $145.00

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Postby madjack » Mon Aug 08, 2005 9:56 pm

.... here is an aditional source that y'all may be interested in
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Postby mikeschn » Tue Aug 09, 2005 6:02 am

I take it that the Iota Power Supply doesn't have the problem of PC power supplies, in that it shuts itself off because there is no load???

So would something like this work too?
http://cgi.ebay.com/12-Volt-DC-20-Amp-P ... otohosting

Mike...

Dee Bee wrote:
Why add the resistors if all I need is 12Vdc and that is what the output reads?


PC Power Supplies are built around a "switching" circuit. Because of this design, most of PC power supplies require a load for the unit to power up properly. Without a load, usually on the +5V line the PC power supply is built to shut itself off. This is especially true of the newer ATX style. The purpose of using resistors is to imitate the load of the hard drive, so the power supply cycles up to full output power. If the power supply doesn't sense a load the ATX styles shut off.

Some PC power supplies can be damaged if you try to power up with out a load.


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Make your own Power Supply

Postby Dee Bee » Tue Aug 09, 2005 10:33 am

I have found that most TDs really don't have high 12 v DC loads unless you are trying to run coolers, TV's, etc. Lights and even radio's don;t draw that much amperage. So I made my own power supply from a discarded computer

I have had it powered on for two months to run a fan 12 v DC inside the sleeping cabin of the Zephyr. When I use my TD I have turned on all the lights and the power supply still works without over heating.

Check it out
http://www.nfdc.net/home/cbdb/12%20V%20Power%20Supply.htm

It may not be for everyone, but it works for me...

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Have fun and be safe.

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Postby Cutterpup » Tue Aug 09, 2005 11:16 am

All I know is in our pop-up camper we have a central power pack -power converter. We wanted the Tear Drop to be wired like the pop-up. I think it is a 15 amps. You can use a l2 v. battery to run the lights inside. We always conects to the electric source at the camp grounds. The lights works inside because of the converter. We wanted this system because it works the way we need it to work. If we need to use the 12 v. battery we can, but its simple this way. I hope this makes it easier to understand. Thanks


We always conects to the electric source at the camp grounds.


Lee I am confused? You say that you always connect to 120V power, but you want to then change it to 12 volt power. using a power converter. If you don't carry a battery with you why are you going to 12 volt lights, fan etc. Just wire your trailer for 120v AC power. It will be cheaper to buy everything for 120v AC power than to buy a power converter (such as wire, oulet boxes, and switches). Also with being one system wired (120v AC) you can bring all kinds of stuff, such as fans, air conditioners, TV, vcrs, DVD, CD player, coffee maker that makes coffee the same day, microwave ovens, hot water heaters, computers, game boys, oh well the list can go on and on.

However if you want to be able to go without the electrical hook-up i.e. off the net. You do need a battery and your power converter will not help you. Just my 2 cents (not even worth a plug nickel any more). I just hate seeing systems that are more complicated and expensive than they have to be.

Our trailer is a mix of both battery and 120v AC. All of the lights, ceiling fan and the water pump are 12 volts. The galley is mostly 120v AC. We have an inverter that we can use to plug the entire 120v AC system into but the inverter is not able to run the refridgerator or microwave oven.

Dan & Judy
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Postby John6012 » Tue Aug 09, 2005 11:46 am

I bought a 30 amp converter off of Ebay for $24.00 + 12.00 shipping. It was new with instructions. It'll keep the battery charged and simplify things for me since all 12 V connects to it except the power cord to the p/u.
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