110 Volt Breaker Box Help Please

[steve wolverton]

Hi All,

I was hoping I could get some help. I've never wired 110 before and I'm not real sure what I'm doing. Here is what I've got so far...



Ok, now I removed the knockout on the top right corner. The wire from the power pole at the campsite will feed in there. Ok, so I'm guessing that the hot wire (the black wire) will go to #2 and that will feed the breakers. The neutral (white wire) will go to #3. The ground wire (green) will go to #4. Is this right?

So next I install the #12 wire and punch out another knockout. Ok, so if I'm close, then the hot wires (black) will go from #1 breakers to the outlets & one to the AC. I'm guessing the ground (green) will feed out from the #4 as well. Here's where I'm confused, where do I get my neutral wire? If it goes into #3, where does it come out for the outlets and stuff? I hope this makes sense as I really don't know much about this stuff.

Thanks.

[steve wolverton]

Ok, I had a friend call me and he said that I'm supposed to take the hot wire (black) to #2. I then make a jumper from #2 to #3. I then install my ground(green) and neutral (white) to #4.

Whoooboy. I miss my simple 2 wire 12 volt systems.

[Kevin A]

Steve,

It l appears that you may already have it figured out, but here's a helpful link;
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hb ... sehld.html

[bdosborn]

Ok, I had a friend call me and he said that I'm supposed to take the hot wire (black) to #2. I then make a jumper from #2 to #3. I then install my ground(green) and neutral (white) to #4.

Whoooboy. I miss my simple 2 wire 12 volt systems.

No, no, no, no, no! Never tie the neutral and ground together! Just tie the neutrals together in the box with a wire nut or wago. Your GFCI may not work if you tie the neutral and ground together. I'd also test the ground bar to make sure there's continuity between the bar and the box (assuming its a metal box, it kinda looks like plastic in the picture).
Bruce

[steve wolverton]

No, no, no, no, no! Never tie the neutral and ground together! Just tie the neutrals together in the box with a wire nut or wago. Your GFCI may not work if you tie the neutral and ground together. I'd also test the ground bar to make sure there's continuity between the bar and the box (assuming its a metal box, it kinda looks like plastic in the picture).

Hmm. I was told the reason to tie the ground/neutral together was because there is no ground in the trailer as it's mobile. The ground is returned through the neutral back to the ground at the campsite electrical post?



So where is my neutral then? If I use the ground at #4, and I use a jumper at #2 & #3 then there is no neutral.

EDITED: Oh, I just re-read and see that I tie the neutrals together in the box, there isn't a bus bar or anything like that for them.

Yes, the box is plastic.

[Dale M.]

If you have 110volt 3 wire connection, the U shaped (green safety ground) should be tied through from trailer to shore power plug.... Also same for neutral wire ( large blade - white wire ) on duplex receptacle....

Neutral wire (white) should never be tied to green "safety ground"...

IF you are suspicious of shore power use "receptacle tester" to test plug before plugging in trailer to power...

IF shore power is correct and you wire trailer correctly, you will be safe!

Tieing green safety ground to neutral wire is a cheaters way to try and provide a safety ground in plug when "system" (trailer) is only fed with two wire (hot-neutral) 110 volt supply.... This sort of thing is to be avoided ...

Dale

[steve wolverton]

Tieing green safety ground to neutral wire is a cheaters way to try and provide a safety ground in plug when "system" (trailer) is only fed with two wire (hot-neutral) 110 volt supply.... This sort of thing is to be avoided ...

Thanks Dale. Ok, so tying the green(ground)/white(neutral) together is a safety for when a shore power (campsite electrical) isn't hooked up correctly? It seems like it would be safer to connect the ground/neutral than not, especially if the campground isn't wired correctly.

Sorry for being so dense on this stuff, but it's confusing.

According to the stuff I'm reading, the ground isn't even really needed in the system, but is used to prevent "shock."

[Miriam C.]

Thanks Dale. Ok, so tying the green(ground)/white(neutral) together is a safety for when a shore power (campsite electrical) isn't hooked up correctly? It seems like it would be safer to connect the ground/neutral than not, especially if the campground isn't wired correctly.

NO NO NO. To quote Bruce. NO.
Steve,
If you find the campground isn't grounded right don't plug up. There isn't a whole lot you can do to protect yourself from this. Tying your neutral and ground together won't ground your trailer. To "ground" means just that. The elec. is going at some point to the earth. That is accomplished by way of a ground rod in the earth.

Neutral wire (white) should never be tied to green "safety ground"...

[steve wolverton]

NO NO NO. To quote Bruce. NO.

Hmm. Ok, so you're saying I shouldn't do this?

Ok, thanks guys. Ground will be separate from all others, all of my neutrals will be tied together in the breaker box, and breakers will handle the hot wires. I think I got it now.

[Miriam C.]

Glad to hear it Steve.

For those who are not familiar with setting up a full electrical service, the box stores have books that will walk you through it step by step.

There is no need ever for someone to get injuried because they did't know and did it anyway. There are breaker/GFCI drop cords that wil work for people who are unsure.

Thirdly: This forum is packed full of fantastic information. Take the time to read it. :thumbsup

If you still don't understand ask---or get an electrician.

Lecture over.

[Dale M.]

IF you use receptacle tester and it shows shore power is wired wrong or not showing good, do not plug in!.... Its that simple... Ask campsite operator for another camp/space and report problem to camp operator....

This may help the next guy using that site... And it may be me!... I WILL do this for you....

Dale

[bdosborn]

According to the stuff I'm reading, the ground isn't even really needed in the system, but is used to prevent "shock."

It's not used to conduct load current but to carry away accidental shorts. Sorry for using so many "no"s. After reading this again I came on a bit strong. People will be calling me George before long...
Bruce

[steve wolverton]

After reading this again I came on a bit strong. People will be calling me George before long...

No worries. I'm grateful for the help. I should have it wired tonight. I'm going to run down to Walmart to see if I can find a converter for that funky 30 amp service plug to a conventional 15 amp house plug so I can plug it in and see if it works. Thanks again.

[Miriam C.]

After reading this again I came on a bit strong. People will be calling me George before long...

No worries. I'm grateful for the help. I should have it wired tonight. I'm going to run down to Walmart to see if I can find a converter for that funky 30 amp service plug to a conventional 15 amp house plug so I can plug it in and see if it works. Thanks again.

Steve they may not make an adapter that goes from 30amp to 15amp. They have them for 30amp to 20amp.

Bruce, me too. I could be Georgett, huh. I didn't think it was too strong and you weren't argueing with anyone. Difference!

[steve wolverton]

Steve they may not make an adapter that goes from 30amp to 15amp. They have them for 30amp to 20amp.

Yeah, that's what I meant.