Learning the hard way

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Learning the hard way

Postby halfdome, Danny » Tue Feb 06, 2007 4:51 pm

Learning the hard way

A while back I put in two extra 12 volt plugs in the cabin to run our Electro-Warmth Bunk Warmer which is fantastic, oh so warm & comfortable :thumbsup: . I used the uninsulated solderless terminal connectors for the side terminal connection since I had them on hand & it was inside the tear. Image
I put electrical tape on them just for good measure as usual (I use the insulated ones on the exterior where needed). Everything worked just fine until the day I took the tear to the car wash. Unbeknownst to me, apparently the vibration made one of those female connectors come loose. Several days passed with us using the bunk warmer plugged into another outlet until I had time to see what had gone wrong. Last night I noticed the batteries were discharging to the point of being totally drained, so I shut the system down :fb . This morning I soldered that connector and re-taped it and added more strain relief connectors to keep everything in place. Since the batteries were completely drained I recharged them on my trusty ole’ Schumacher 10/30/50 amp battery charger. My onboard 12 volt 1.25 Battery Tender won't charge if the batteries are below 3 amps. After charging I found out I had fried :shocked: the Battery Tender and the warranty is voided since I cut the AC cord to shorten it. Today I ordered $> the waterproof 5 amp Battery Tender that I’ve wanted for sometime now since it will do a better job for 2 batteries . Live & learn the hard way sometimes :cry: $>. Whatever you do don’t cut the cord!! :no:
At our brand new Walmart they now stock insulated & uninsulated solderless terminal connectors in the same quantity and at the same price, I’ll be buying & using the insulated ones from now on for everything. :D Danny

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Postby Guy » Tue Feb 06, 2007 5:52 pm

Dear Danny,

I hope I learn from your mistakes. I almost both the uninsulated the other day but did not want to wait on a long line. So now I can go get some insulated ones. Thanks.
Regards,

Guy
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Postby Mary K » Tue Feb 06, 2007 6:05 pm

Thanks for tip. :thumbsup: Sorry it cost you. :thumbdown:

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Postby PaulC » Tue Feb 06, 2007 6:06 pm

All of my connections are soldered and then I shrink wrap insulate them. Might be a pain down the road if I have to replace them but, I feel, it's cheap insurance against this sort of problem.
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Postby halfdome, Danny » Tue Feb 06, 2007 8:16 pm

Another thing that was against me from the beginning was they had supplied a 16 gauge wire with connector for that slim male blade on the 12 volt outlet. My wiring is 12 gauge and can't see adding a 16 gauge pigtail to it. I haven't seen any slim female connectors in my area so I used the regular sized ones. Doing that, it needs soldering even though it feels secure. :D Danny
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Postby Micro469 » Tue Feb 06, 2007 8:18 pm

Thanks Danny..... Guess who's gonna haveta redo his electrics AGAIN????? 8)
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Postby halfdome, Danny » Tue Feb 06, 2007 9:48 pm

Micro469 wrote:Thanks Danny..... Guess who's gonna haveta redo his electrics AGAIN????? 8)

This is the purpose of this post. I could have stayed silent but why should someone else have similar problems. :) Danny
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Postby Dale M. » Tue Feb 06, 2007 10:52 pm

As a solution to connector problems go to real supplier (trailer - truck commercial -indiutrial ) and get proper connectors first.... Relying on Wally World or Auto Zone is a real hit or miss situation....

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Postby Dale M. » Tue Feb 06, 2007 10:55 pm

halfdome, Danny wrote:Another thing that was against me from the beginning was they had supplied a 16 gauge wire with connector for that slim male blade on the 12 volt outlet. My wiring is 12 gauge and can't see adding a 16 gauge pigtail to it. I haven't seen any slim female connectors in my area so I used the regular sized ones. Doing that, it needs soldering even though it feels secure. :D Danny


Obviously inferior connector.... THE ones I use have 12 gauge pigtail with insulated female slipon connectors on pig tails....

I usually try to buy through these places instead Wal-Mart

https://www.delcity.net/
http://www.waytekwire.com/



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Postby halfdome, Danny » Tue Feb 06, 2007 11:40 pm

Dale M. wrote:
halfdome, Danny wrote:Another thing that was against me from the beginning was they had supplied a 16 gauge wire with connector for that slim male blade on the 12 volt outlet. My wiring is 12 gauge and can't see adding a 16 gauge pigtail to it. I haven't seen any slim female connectors in my area so I used the regular sized ones. Doing that, it needs soldering even though it feels secure. :D Danny


Obviously inferior connector.... THE ones I use have 12 gauge pigtail with insulated female slipon connectors on pig tails....

I usually try to buy through these places instead Wal-Mart

https://www.delcity.net/
http://www.waytekwire.com/



Dale

I purchased the 12 volt outlets from Boaters World and the connectors from Home Depot. Can't see why I should order online when readily available locally. Danny
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Postby dhazard » Tue Feb 06, 2007 11:42 pm

One other thing to think about is using a good crimpier tool. The best connector is no good if it isn’t crimped correctly.
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Postby asianflava » Wed Feb 07, 2007 2:35 am

Dale M. wrote:Obviously inferior connector.... THE ones I use have 12 gauge pigtail with insulated female slipon connectors on pig tails....

I usually try to buy through these places instead Wal-Mart

https://www.delcity.net/
http://www.waytekwire.com/

Dale


Well, I buy my terminals at Wal-Mart. If I need it now then I don't care where it comes from as long as it works out. They do have some decent 3M terminals but of course they cost a little more. I bought some butt connectors with the integrated heat shrink insulation from Wally-World when I shortened my tongue.

The thing to stay away from are those variety packs that come with a crimper. That crimper will do more harm than good. If you don't squeeze hard enough, the terminal won't hold. If you squeeze too hard, it will deform female spade connectors. A high quality crimper is well worth the expense. I've used a ratcheting crimper for years, I keep track of it because I don't want to go back.

What I don't understand is, how did the batteries discharge? did the terminal ground out on something? If it did, why didn't it blow a fuse?
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Postby halfdome, Danny » Wed Feb 07, 2007 9:59 am

asianflava wrote:
Dale M. wrote:Obviously inferior connector.... THE ones I use have 12 gauge pigtail with insulated female slipon connectors on pig tails....

I usually try to buy through these places instead Wal-Mart

https://www.delcity.net/
http://www.waytekwire.com/

Dale


What I don't understand is, how did the batteries discharge? did the terminal ground out on something? If it did, why didn't it blow a fuse?

It appears it grounded out on the other terminal of the outlet at some point in time and I discovered it blew a 20 amp fuse. The thing that baffles me is the 7.5 amp fuse on the Battery Tender is still OK but it won't work, or at least the lights don't come on after several attempts. :? Danny
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Postby Phil & Ningning » Wed Feb 07, 2007 3:30 pm

halfdome, Danny wrote:
asianflava wrote:
Dale M. wrote:Obviously inferior connector.... THE ones I use have 12 gauge pigtail with insulated female slipon connectors on pig tails....

I usually try to buy through these places instead Wal-Mart

https://www.delcity.net/
http://www.waytekwire.com/

Dale


What I don't understand is, how did the batteries discharge? did the terminal ground out on something? If it did, why didn't it blow a fuse?

It appears it grounded out on the other terminal of the outlet at some point in time and I discovered it blew a 20 amp fuse. The thing that baffles me is the 7.5 amp fuse on the Battery Tender is still OK but it won't work, or at least the lights don't come on after several attempts. :? Danny


If the battery tender was in use with the electric blanket, and your batteries were drained to the point that they would not supply enough current for the load, then current draw from the tender would rise far beyond it's capabilities. You said it was rated at 1.25a, so a 7.5a fuse will not protect it. you must use a fuse on your tender that is rated no higher than the current rating of the tender.

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