what goes through the fuse box?

Anything electric, AC or DC

what goes through the fuse box?

Postby Ron Dickey » Sun Nov 07, 2004 10:32 pm

does every thing electric go through here?

what do you have on yours

Sounds like a need for a poll maybe mike can make one I do not know fully what to list.
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Postby Woody » Mon Nov 08, 2004 11:51 pm

I have two panels,one for all 12 Vdc circuits (fuses), and the other for 120 vac side of the wiring (breakers)
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Postby shil » Tue Nov 09, 2004 11:55 am

Remember, every circuit needs a fuse. A panel makes things simple but it's not a necessity. In line fuses work just as well, they're just not as convenient.
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Postby Chuck Craven » Tue Nov 30, 2004 7:30 pm

On the 120v ac side: If you are going to run AC/ firing pan/ coffee pot/ arc lighting/ 2000-watt stereo/TV/DVD/VCR/swimming pool heater and stuff. You will need a circuit breaker box just like the one on the farm. But if you are looking at one outlet for the battery charger and one outlet for the galley, for use with the coffee pot or firing pan, not both at the same time. Then wire it from the shore male plug to a GFI outlet at the battery box. Then add the galley outlet after the GFI so both are Ground Fault Interrupted protected. The law wants the ground wire to the frame of the trailer also but I don’t like that, for a simple AC power system. If the shore power has an open ground some place one mite get a shock from touching the trailer frame. Just make sure your ground wires are wired to both outlets and the plug going to shore power. Do an inspection of the shore power outlet with a tester to make sure it is wired right. You can bye an AC outlet tested at any electrical supply/hardware store or Home Depot. There cheep personal protection.

12v DC side: You do it just like down on the farm. A main fuse and each circuit has it’s own fuse. Else you will have a flaming tear going down the road. That is literally not a British slang word. Batteries will supply more and more power to a short. Where there is smoke soon there will be fire. It’s hard to put out fires at 65 MPH.
:cry:
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Postby Woody » Tue Nov 30, 2004 8:01 pm

I would still install aleast one main breaker (20 amp) on the 120 vac side, because a GFIC oulet is not a breaker technically and the manufacture doesn't recomend that it be used without a breaker. Shore power breakers are sometimes fickle and they do get abused, it is better to be safe than sorry. I agree that you should test the shore power for correct wiring (polarity) and grounding. the other thing I would recomend is a good heavy shore cord not a skinny extention cord
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Postby Chuck Craven » Tue Nov 30, 2004 9:21 pm

Yes I have seen where the campsite had a 60amp breaker with the 60 motor home outlet plug and right next to it is a 15amp outlet. Always wonder if the 15amp outlet is wired directly to the 60amp breaker. Putting a breaker in the tear is a good Idea, makes your camper safe as possible. I have thought of a polarity-reversing switch also, just in case the shore power is reversed. That means you have to check to outlets on the tear before using the shore power. Again better to be safe than sorry. :applause:
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Postby Ron Dickey » Wed Dec 01, 2004 2:40 pm

What is a Shore powered outlet?
121377......134179
Inside almost done--Trolly top has opening windows & roof.doors need assembling--pictured above waley windows..galley 1/3 done
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Postby Chuck Craven » Wed Dec 01, 2004 4:27 pm

When you go to a campground (like Yogi Bear) and get a campsite with AC power/water.
There is a pole with AC power box and a water hydrant. You plug in your extension cord and water hose from the camper.
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Postby tdthinker » Thu Dec 02, 2004 5:33 pm

I like the split system, just wire the 12 v to the trailer and a small rod to the ground, bye
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Postby Woody » Thu Dec 02, 2004 6:08 pm

If you check the ground at the power hook up (shore power) you should be alright you don't need a ground rod. Unless you plan on putting up a mast for ham radio or something like that
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