Solar conversion of a pop-up camper

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Solar conversion of a pop-up camper

Postby RAYVILLIAN » Sun Jun 24, 2007 11:27 am

Just found this link to a solar conversion of a pop-up trailer. It brings up some interesting thinks about wire size and useing AC instead of DC for lights. Just passing it along.

http://www.otherpower.com/popup.html

there is a lot of other stuff at otherpower about windmills if your interested in that.
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Darn blank states keep getting further away and we keep traveling slower ain't never gona get this map full.
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Postby madjack » Sun Jun 24, 2007 11:41 am

...interesting article Gary...lotssa food for thought...thanks for posting it............................................... 8)
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Postby Tear Les » Sun Jun 24, 2007 1:42 pm

It is an interesting article. I don't believe for the majority of folks that it has much merit since the wiring size to run most of what's in small trailers for lighting is in the 16 to 14 gauge size range; hardly an argument for smaller wire size when the AC wiring is likely to as large and there are 3 conductors rather than two (and if using the same wire; then more expensive and heavier).

They also don't point out inverter losses; the cheaper models have more losees than the more expensive inverters in general and if it gets to the 10% or 15% range it isn't trivial.

They also don't point out the safety issues. If your AC wiring is incorrect or you lose your ground you can be severly shocked or killed. If your DC wiring is incorrect or you lose a ground you generally lose power. At worst case you may melt some wires but the shock hazard is many, many time less with 12-volt power.

For small loads like lighting (there's Hologen, Xenon, LED and CCF to name a few if you're worried about consumption on the DC side) AC power doesn't make much sense in a camper away from the grid. It also means you either invest in expensive solar power (which in some parts of the country and under a wonderful canopy of trees hardly works) or you carry your generator with you.

For large loads with high amperage draw (micro, coffee maker, hair dryer, etc) then AC power is best and that's what an inverter is for if you have the battery power to support it. A Honda EU2000i or equivlent works well too and it's way cheaper than a solar panel.

I liked the article. It points out what's possible if you take a what-if situation and push the bounderies. While it returns useful information, like most experiments of this sort it yields very little practical application.
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Postby brian_bp » Mon Jun 25, 2007 1:48 pm

The idea of generating 12VDC power with a panel and storing it in a battery, then converting up to 120VAC to send it a couple of feet to a power supply which converts it again seems nonsensical. The only advantage is that Compact Fluorescent Lamps (CFLs) are dirt cheap, and proper 12VDC-powered fluorescents are not.

I have a 12VDC CFL in my trailer, because it has a regular medium screw base socket (like a household lamp) but with 12VDC power; however, it is a specialty item and stupidly expensive.

Ironically, most "high efficiency" lamps in home use (including the LED units) are powered through converters which put out 12VDC - just omit the power supply brick, instead of running all that power through an inverter, just to convert it back.

While LEDs have not been as efficient as originally promised, they seem to be getting there. Staying all 12VDC and using LEDs or cold-cathode fluorescents for lighting seems like the way to go for me.

By the way, don't be too eager to believe anything electrical from someone who thinks that "Volts and Amps measure work". I can believe this guy lives "off the grid"; I just don't believe he understands how the stuff works.
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Postby madjack » Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:21 am

aka The frog wrote:To put that simply for any given ampage AC wiring can be a lot smaller and lighter than DC wiring


...actually Froggy, it for any given WATTAGE, AC wiring can be smaller than DC wiring...AMPS are AMPS...50A of DC power requires the same wire size as 50A of AC power...

Or to put it another way...1200watts @ 120vac will take 10amps but 1200watts @ 12vdc will require 100amps...you definitely do not want the wire size, required for 10A to be the same if you applied 100A toit.....
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Postby Tear Les » Thu Jun 28, 2007 9:13 am

aka The frog wrote:Hi Les

.
Tear Les wrote:I don't believe for the majority of folks that it has much merit since the wiring size to run most of what's in small trailers for lighting is in the 16 to 14 gauge size range; hardly an argument for smaller wire size when the AC wiring is likely to as large and there are 3 conductors rather than two (and if using the same wire; then more expensive and heavier)..


For a given quantity of power transmitted, the wire size would be inversely proportional to the voltage used; or to put it another way, the allowable length of a circuit, given a wire size and allowable voltage drop, would increase approximately as the square of the distribution voltage.

To put that simply for any given ampage AC wiring can be a lot smaller and lighter than DC wiring

Tear Les wrote:They also don't point out inverter losses; the cheaper models have more losses than the more expensive inverters in general and if it gets to the 10% or 15% range it isn't trivial..


All invertors have losses the best if matched to load exactly can Achieve only 7% loss, but virtually every invertor is losing 10% Plus it goes with the territory.


There is a physical limit to the size of wire than can or should be used. I'm well aware of the limitations imposed since I design electrical systems for mobile applications for a living utilizing AC and DC circuits.

In therory you could use much smaller wire for AC lighting than is necessary for DC lighting. In the real world that won't happen because for physcial strength and for convenient connections you wouldn't drop smaller than 16-gauge on either the AC or the DC circuit for general use (small gauge or sensor wiring excepted). If you used 14-gauge for DC you could certainly use 16-gauge for AC but you'd also add a conductor so the complexity, weight, and cost has gone up. How much smaller the wire "could" be if AC were used is therefore a moot point relative to the lighting and small appliance (fans, etc) systems typically installed in small trailers.

And that's the gist of my comments. It isn't that some can't be done but rather that what is done is not necessarily a practical application of availalbe technology; unless it's just something you "want" to do (then it ought to be labeled "experimental").

Inverter losses are "part of the territory" which is exactly why they ought to be limited for use in those applications where they're necessary rather than because they're available; a loss is a loss and there's no reason to build losses into a system that didn't require it in the first place.

The safety issue is the single biggest reason I'd hate to see a bunch of recreational trailers set up with large storage banks of batteries and inverters used to power the unit for general purposes (rather than a few necesary applicances). The more often a user interfaces with a system like that the more likelihood there is for a shock hazard.

A mobile unit isn't like a house where a good ground system is an easy thing to accomplish and without a proper ground system it's a rolling death trap. Most folks don't know or understand the regulations involving establishing grounds (that is when to establish ground to the unit and when to establish ground to a grid) in a mobile unit and what they don't know in this case could kill them. For instance; if you have a shore power cable and a built-in inverter what do you have installed that allows the ground to switch from shore power ground to chassis ground since each of those systems has a different requirement?

This doesn't apply to 100% AC units since the only way they can get power is though a shore power cord which (hopefully) has been wired properly. But, one also has to hope that the last person to handle the wiring at the power pole also got the receptacle wiring right. A crossed ground and neutral wire could have dire results. Polarity should alaways be checked (with a plug-in polarity checker) before energizing any mobile unit on AC power.

My professional opinion is that AC power should stay in houses and DC should be used in mobile application whenever possbile (and always staying in an RV park with shore power is not really mobile in the electrical sense; they're moving houses from that persepctive). AC power should be reserved for those appliances that really need them and then connected to power poles or inverters where the polarity has been tested for a proper ground path.

AC power in a mobile unit is the single most dangerous thing that most folks ever install. It's also the system that's least understood and most taken for granted since we (typically) live with it everyday in our homes and offices. It's not to be trifled with; it can and will kill if not properly implemented.
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Postby madjack » Thu Jun 28, 2007 10:20 am

hey Frog..I am wondering how your build is coming along...you are planing or building something...right...or do you already own a TorTTT...we would love to see some pics of it...a nice pic of you for an avatar and an area location would be nice, as well as a real name to put with the face(so to speak)....
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Postby SkipperSue » Thu Jun 28, 2007 5:58 pm

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Postby Tear Les » Thu Jun 28, 2007 9:06 pm

aka The frog wrote:Hi Les

Cutting to the chase
In theory you could use much smaller wire for AC lighting than is necessary for DC lighting.


Its not just a theory its fact, a look at any 20 amp cable for 12volts dc will show that it is FAR bigger crosssectionally than 20 amp cable for 120 volts ac


It is not fact and you are incorrect; 20 amps is 20 amps no matter what voltage potential is being applied and used in the same circumstances the electrical requirement for each conductor will be identical. Go down to the nearest Home Depot, Lowe's, et al and ask them what size wire they recommend for a 20-amp AC circuit. Then look up the wire size necessary for a 20-amp DC load (Blue Sea Systems has a good calculator online). In both cases for all but very long runs it's going to be 12-gauge wire for both the AC and DC runs. Since the DC circuit will suffer more voltage drop than the AC circuit as the run gets longer the DC circuit will require an upgrade in wire size sooner. Long transmission lines is one of the reasons AC finally won out over DC for home systems in the early days of the technology.
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