My wiring plans

Anything electric, AC or DC

Postby Nitetimes » Thu Mar 24, 2005 4:24 pm

No problem, I'll probably be using the first one I listed from Lowes. I'm sure HD has them also but they don't have them listed in their website.
Rich


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Postby toypusher » Thu Mar 24, 2005 4:33 pm

Yah, HD does not list alot of things on the website that they carry in the store :cry: :? . Sure would be nice if they did, so you could check prices and availablity. OH, well, both Lowes and Home Depot are abou 5 miles from my house. :thumbsup:
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Postby bdosborn » Thu Mar 24, 2005 6:59 pm

toypusher wrote:Bruce,

I know I ask this before, but it seems to fit in here and I hope everyone would want to know the answer.

Is there a CB for the AC side that can be used without a breaker box? I don't want to have to spend $70 or more for a breaker box to hold only one 20A CB. You gave me a link to Granger (I think it was), but I don't understand the breaker that it led me to. Or how to use it for that matter. I was hoping that there is some kind of 120VAC Circuit Breaker that can be used stand alone or in-line (like the 12VDC ones).
Kerry


I should get my breaker next week. I had some trouble finding it but I'll post pictures when I do. It is a stand alone circuit breaker that is small, mounts without a box, can be DIN mounted and has optional ring terminal kit.
You can find more information than you ever wanted about it here. The list price is $26.

Bruce
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Postby toypusher » Thu Mar 24, 2005 8:38 pm

Bruce,

Thanks so much :thumbsup: . I did a little searching on the net and found a few places locally, but I may have to find a contractor to buy it for me. Most of these places only sell to businesses and NOT to individuals. :x

Thanks again

Kerry
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Postby Nitetimes » Fri Mar 25, 2005 1:22 am

toypusher wrote:Bruce,

Thanks so much :thumbsup: . I did a little searching on the net and found a few places locally, but I may have to find a contractor to buy it for me. Most of these places only sell to businesses and NOT to individuals. :x

Thanks again

Kerry


Which stores did you find them in? I've got contractor accounts with several electrical supply outlets. Let me know the manufacturer and part number and I'll see if I can get it thru any of mine.
Rich


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Postby toypusher » Fri Mar 25, 2005 9:07 am

Nitetimes,

I found it at Graingers and also at Schnieder Electric. I know Graingers won't sell to me (they have a sign on the door that says: "We only sell business to business") I haven't talked to Schnieder, but I did find it at a local Electric Supply Wholesaler and I am going to order it there today!

Thanks for the offer, maybe someone else will need your help to get one.


Kerry
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Postby Larwyn » Fri Mar 25, 2005 9:31 am

The smallest "load center" I could find at Home Depot is actually a fused disconnect. It has a single switch and two of the old style screw in fuses. I have an old Square D breaker panel from a dismantled "canned ham" that is actually smaller but the bakelight frame is broken so I am going to go with the disconnect. It has the switch, two fuse sockets a neutral bus and a single ground screw. I do not have the dimensions of this box with me but will measure it when I get home if anyone else is interested.
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Postby Nitetimes » Fri Mar 25, 2005 10:38 am

toypusher Glad you found it, hope it works out for you. Let me know what it is like when you get it. R.
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Postby toypusher » Fri Mar 25, 2005 11:47 am

Nitetimes,

I went to order the CB and when I got there the guy asked what I was using it for and when I explained, he said he had a less expensive way>

He sold me a Square D Load Center with a 20Amp CB to put in it. He reasoning was that if I had the room for the box that the $7.00 CB in it would be a whole lot easier and cheaper to replace if the need arose. I plan on putting it in a box on the tongue, so I have the room and figured that if the CB went bad, that any Home Depot, Lowes, Ace harware or what ever would have a replacement. Not everybody carries the QOU120HM CB! It seemed to make sense, so I went with it.

Bruce will have to tell you about the QOU120HM when he gets his. I would diffenitely say that it would be best if you have limited space.

Kerry
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Postby The R/C Man » Sun Apr 17, 2005 7:29 am

Great info everyone! :applause:

I borrowed those diagrams to help me with my wiring. Thanks to the great info all I will need to do is go buy the parts... :D
Greg


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Postby bdosborn » Sun Apr 17, 2005 9:42 pm

Kerry,
Here's a picture of the circuit breaker I got. Its the same size as a regular 20A panel mounted breaker but has mounting feet and covers for the lugs.

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Definately saves a lot of space over having to mount a box for a circuit breaker. The bottom cover is off so you can just see the lug underneath. I ordered a ring terminal kit to replace the lug but it hasn't come in yet. I'll still need some sort of cover for the end as you could stick something in there and hit the lug. It will also mount on a DIN rail. I got the high magnetic inrush model in case I add air conditioning sometime in the future.
Bruce
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Postby toypusher » Mon Apr 18, 2005 5:37 am

Bruce,

That looks just like the drawings that I saw when I was looking for that one. I decided to put a tongue box on the tear and have the extra space for the box and anything else that I might need. I was going to put the battery in the box also, but have changed my mind and will put the batter in the galley. I have an optima battery and should not have to have much ventilation with it back there. I plan on putting a box around it and having a tube to create a vent to the outside (probably thru the floor). The battery should only need to be vented when charging and I can have the hatch open while charging, if need be. This configuration will also leave me with more storage space in the tongue box and less wiring for the battery.

Thanks for keeping up on this and all the other help that you have provided through out this thread. I am hoping to eventually build at least one more teardrop and will do things a bit differently with that one.

Kerry
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Wire Sizing

Postby OkieSailor » Sun Apr 24, 2005 9:45 pm

I have not read all of the posts on this subject, so this may have already been hashed out. I have several hundred feet of 18ga 4 conductor stranded cable. The cross sectional for 18 gage stranded is 1624 CM, if I double up each wire to make a single circuit cable I get a cross sectional size of 3248 CM. As near as I can calculate this gives me a wire size of approximately 15 ga for each of the doubled wires. According to most everything I have found, the combined size of 15 ga. should carry approx 25/28 amps on 12v DC without problems. As I wll be using 20amp fuses or less I don't forsee any problems. Or am I just fooling myself?

Comments if you please!

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Re: Wire Sizing

Postby bdosborn » Mon Apr 25, 2005 1:35 pm

OkieSailor wrote:I have not read all of the posts on this subject, so this may have already been hashed out. I have several hundred feet of 18ga 4 conductor stranded cable. The cross sectional for 18 gage stranded is 1624 CM, if I double up each wire to make a single circuit cable I get a cross sectional size of 3248 CM. As near as I can calculate this gives me a wire size of approximately 15 ga for each of the doubled wires. According to most everything I have found, the combined size of 15 ga. should carry approx 25/28 amps on 12v DC without problems. As I wll be using 20amp fuses or less I don't forsee any problems. Or am I just fooling myself?

Comments if you please!

:thinking:


I haven't looked at the specific wire you're using, but, we use parallel conductors on feeders all the time. Just make sure that the parallel runs are the same length, or the two wires won't share current equally. I think I'd use a 15 amp fuse instead of a 20, since a 14 AWG is usually good for about 15 amps and your combined wire size is a bit smaller the a 14.
Bruce
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All

Postby jcck » Thu Jun 09, 2005 4:25 pm

Hi, I have been monitoring this Forum for a month or so after deciding to build a teardrop this fall, there sure are a great bunch of people here willing to share ideas and thoughts. My experiences with trailers is that 12 volt lighting has been more than adequate for small trailers as 110 volt is so bright. I am planning on using Halogen task lighting inside and outside lights that are typically used in those situations. Am I off base?? it will make my install easier, also has anyone thought of using an overhead DVD unit rather than a TV?? thanks again for this great Forum

Jim Miller Charlotte NC
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