My wiring plans

Anything electric, AC or DC

Re: My wiring plans

Postby MtnDon » Mon Feb 23, 2015 5:46 pm

The standard auto alternator puts out 13.8 to 14.2 volts; they need to in order to charge a battery. So every normal auto accessory will work up to that range and likely to work up close to near 15 VDC.

Depending on the aftermarket accessory there may be some danger IF the battery is being run through a battery charge equalization charge. Most common chargers can not do this so that may be a moot point. IF there is a 120 VAC charger or a solar controller than can perform an equalization charge that can change what is safe to do and with what. EQ charges can run up to 15 to 15.5 volts. There are some inverters that can be damaged by that high a voltage; read the specs.

As Tony said low voltage is bad for the battery. A regulator can't boost low voltage so low voltage is just time to turn things off.
Our 6x12 deep vee nose cargo trailer camper conversion... viewtopic.php?f=42&t=58336

We have a small off grid cabin we built ourselves in the NM mountains; small PV solar system; 624 watts PV, Outback CC & inverter/charger ... http://countryplans.com/smf/index.php?topic=2335.0
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Re:

Postby ukewarrior » Thu May 14, 2015 9:39 pm

Can someone tell me the difference, for our use, in this Square-D breaker and these very inexpensive panel mounted breakers?
Other than the 15A vs. 20A rating. Won't they both do the same job with proper mounting and protection?
Any reason you can't mount the panel mount breaker on an electrical box with cover?
I'm thinking the units below are what's used in fused power strips.
http://www.bgmicro.com/FUS1003.aspx
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G19437

bdosborn wrote:Kerry,
Here's a picture of the circuit breaker I got. Its the same size as a regular 20A panel mounted breaker but has mounting feet and covers for the lugs.

Image

Definately saves a lot of space over having to mount a box for a circuit breaker. The bottom cover is off so you can just see the lug underneath. I ordered a ring terminal kit to replace the lug but it hasn't come in yet. I'll still need some sort of cover for the end as you could stick something in there and hit the lug. It will also mount on a DIN rail. I got the high magnetic inrush model in case I add air conditioning sometime in the future.
Bruce
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Re: My wiring plans

Postby ukewarrior » Thu May 14, 2015 10:21 pm

MtnDon wrote:A regulator can't boost low voltage so low voltage is just time to turn things off.


Actually, you can boost a DC voltage. There are units know as 'boost' converters which can take one input voltage and increase it to another voltage. You do lose current when this happens.
The opposite is a 'buck' converter which drops a voltage, yet increase the current.
For values under 3 Amps, these units are very inexpensive. (under $2)
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Re: My wiring plans

Postby Camp4Life » Mon Aug 15, 2016 3:30 pm

Just wanted to post a word of warning on all the schematics I see here. The main fuse should always be the first thing coming off the battery, and be as close to the battery as possible.

I see most designs have battery -> master switch -> fuse. This can cause problems if the master switch were to ever get wet/break/short out. If there's a short at the master switch, your fuse won't blow. This can cause your wire between the battery and master switch to overheat/melt/catch fire, and possibly the same could happen to your battery, which is very bad.

Always go battery -> fuse -> switch (or whatever else in the rest of the system). For safety! :thumbsup:

Cheers! :beer:
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