Yearly electrical debate thread

Anything electric, AC or DC

Postby Miriam C. » Mon Nov 17, 2008 6:09 pm

Tamper resistant is a good thing too. All things considered.
http://www.hubbell-wiring.com/Press/PDF ... _HS127.pdf

:) Receptacles or outlets are the things you plug into. Image

You can get shallow boxes for them at the box stores. You can get shallow boxes for your lights too, if you need them.

I have metal boxes on the galley shelf and shallow smurf boxes in the rest. Sprayed them red cause I could. 8)

Image
Last edited by Miriam C. on Mon Nov 17, 2008 6:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby 48Rob » Mon Nov 17, 2008 6:20 pm

Mark Wrote;

1. Use the proper wire size and type for the job, use continuous lengths and avoid splices. Watch bend radius.
Put connections where you have access to them.

2. Determine the proper circuit protection device for the job. Not all fuses or circuit breakers are the same.

3. Read the instructions of the devices you buy.

4. If you don't know how to do #1, 2, 3 or are unwilling to do the reading and research, you might be over your head.

Most of the answers are in relevant standards as they are developed with safety in mind.


Very sound, practical advice!

Thank you! :thumbsup:

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Postby S. Heisley » Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:21 pm

Sorry, all. I meant outlet when I wrote plug. Plug is slang herebouts. When we're looking for an outlet, we sometimes say, "Where's a plug?" when what we really mean is where's an outlet.

Thanks for all the info. from everyone. I know I need to do some reading and studying before I wire my "rig". :D
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Postby hurricaner » Tue Nov 25, 2008 8:22 pm

I would prefer to use an electrical box to house each of my electrical connections but the ones I find are too thick for the TD/TTT walls and if you cut them down, you loose the screw holes. When I asked about it, I was told that most RV builders don't bother with the boxes; they just wire directly to the light fixture or to the electric plug, in the wall. ...Really? What's the best way to do it? ]


RV manufactures have used self contained receptacles for many years along with standard solid romex. http://www.passandseymour.com/literature/pdf/35716_SCD_Bro_frame.pdf
If they're installed right, they work OK on 15 amp circuits but as with any stab like connector there can be problems.

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Postby BPFox » Tue Nov 25, 2008 10:01 pm

S. Heisley wrote:Sorry, all. I meant outlet when I wrote plug. Plug is slang herebouts. When we're looking for an outlet, we sometimes say, "Where's a plug?" when what we really mean is where's an outlet.

Thanks for all the info. from everyone. I know I need to do some reading and studying before I wire my "rig". :D


Don't worry about it. There's a whole bunch of folks on here that keep talking about "shore power" even though most will never take their trailer's anywhere near a marina.
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Postby wlooper89 » Mon Dec 01, 2008 1:44 am

hurricaner wrote:If they're installed right, they work OK on 15 amp circuits but as with any stab like connector there can be problems.


I agree stab connectors, although fast and efficient, are not the greatest even in a house and especially not in a TD. My house was wired that way, and I have no plans to go back and change all the connections. But for the future there is usually a screw terminal alternative. Some heavy duty recepticals have a stab hole with a plate under a screw to hold the wire. Those seem to work fine. :thumbsup:

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Postby Elumia » Tue Dec 02, 2008 2:51 am

Biggest problem I see with Stab connectors is people don't follow the wire stripping guide (its even on the back of the receptacle) and leave exposed conductors, or strip them too short so they don't go in far enough.

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Postby Larwyn » Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:02 am

wlooper89 wrote:
hurricaner wrote:If they're installed right, they work OK on 15 amp circuits but as with any stab like connector there can be problems.


I agree stab connectors, although fast and efficient, are not the greatest even in a house and especially not in a TD. My house was wired that way, and I have no plans to go back and change all the connections. But for the future there is usually a screw terminal alternative. Some heavy duty recepticals have a stab hole with a plate under a screw to hold the wire. Those seem to work fine. :thumbsup:

Bill


I used 20 or so 20 amp receptacles like that to wire my shed. I prefer them, especially with stranded wire. I used stranded THHN in EMT conduit and did run a ground wire as well. I'm sure someone will come along and inform me that they are not designed to be used with stranded wire, that they are illegal, and I will be solely responsible for burning down the better part of the Texas hill country. So far after a good year of use I've yet to see the first puff of smoke..... :lol:
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Postby Miriam C. » Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:14 am

Larwyn wrote:
wlooper89 wrote:
hurricaner wrote:If they're installed right, they work OK on 15 amp circuits but as with any stab like connector there can be problems.


I agree stab connectors, although fast and efficient, are not the greatest even in a house and especially not in a TD. My house was wired that way, and I have no plans to go back and change all the connections. But for the future there is usually a screw terminal alternative. Some heavy duty recepticals have a stab hole with a plate under a screw to hold the wire. Those seem to work fine. :thumbsup:

Bill


I used 20 or so 20 amp receptacles like that to wire my shed. I prefer them, especially with stranded wire. I used stranded THHN in EMT conduit and did run a ground wire as well. I'm sure someone will come along and inform me that they are not designed to be used with stranded wire, that they are illegal, and I will be solely responsible for burning down the better part of the Texas hill country. So far after a good year of use I've yet to see the first puff of smoke..... :lol:


Image :thumbsup: I will repeat buy the very best devices you can and follow the instructions.
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Postby BPFox » Thu Dec 04, 2008 11:59 am

Once again I think the use of certain terms can cause confusion. Keep in mind there is a difference between "back stab" and "back wire" receptacles. "Back stab" devices have internal spring clips that hold the wires. The tension can only be released by inserting a release device in the hole provided. "Back wire" devices use a screw clamp to hold the wire. I think when folks are talking about "stab in" devices not being too reliable the are talking about the push in to connnect devices. If your device uses a screw to clamp the wire, it's not a stab in device even though the wire is inserted into the rear of the device much like a stab in device is. The screw clamp device is the preferred device when using stranded wire since it is difficult for most folks to secure stranded wire around a screw so you will get a tighter connection.

The bottom line here is one simple thing. Your electrical system is not the place to cut corners. Purchase higher quality devices and wire according to the manufacturers recommendations.
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