See Any Design Flaws

[big44g]

I was hoping to get any comments on any glaring issues with my electrical design. It will be rare for me to camp in a campground with electricity but wanted to have the option. I will most likely add the 400W power converter after the transfer switch/fuse and not at the batteries. I may add an additional on/off switch just before the 400w power converter.

Thanks

[Graniterich]

I don't see your battery? I did my first like that, ended up removing 12 volt power supply, just float charger, and solar to battery, 12 volt runs off that. I used a power strip for the 120 side

[Dale M.]

I don't see your battery? I did my first like that, ended up removing 12 volt power supply, just float charger, and solar to battery, 12 volt runs off that. I used a power strip for the 120 side

Batteries are between solar panels and transfer switch....

Dale

[troubleScottie]

Generally all the chargers ( solar controller and AC 12V power supply) are connected directly to the batteries. All DC power then comes from the batteries to your DC fuse box.

The advantage is when you are connected to shore power or generator or solar, any extra capacity goes to the batteries. Of course that makes your DC power source be an intelligent charger, not just a simple converter. Then the transfer switch is unnecessary.

Having a switch to turn off the DC power between your batteries and the DC Load and the inverter is useful especially when in storage or under tow.

You will have to consider the inverter being on a switch or removable from the DC source. Inverters draw power even when no load is applied. Your current scheme (no pun intended) will run down the batteries while under tow.

You may want an AC panel with a circuit breaker for each AC outlet. Depends on your power needs. Some designs just use extension cords and power strips. If you are running air conditioning, then I would encourage a real power panel.

Definitely GFCI outlets inside or outside.

There are different schools of thought on having inverter at all. Most designs only have AC when connected to shore power or generators. Some designs are DC only. There are many devices that are DC including lights, fans, refrigs, televisions, radios, water pumps, water heaters. They typically are more efficient then converting DC to AC for a device. Would carrying one be useful at times, sure.

[daveesl77]

In mine I have 120v shore, 120v inverter, 120v generator. I have 12v from shore converter, 12v from truck, 12v from solar. All 12v systems are tied to battery.

The 120v generator I have seldom used, but it is one of those little HF 800 watt guys, so it is light, easy to carry/store in the back of the truck, and only gets taken if I know I'm going somewhere that puts me in "boondock" mode for over a week. I can also use it to boost the battery if necessary, but in reality if my solar can't keep up, then I just hook up the truck as the truck connection can put up to 20amp into the battery.

The inverter is a 2,000 watt Centech that I use primarily to run the 120v refrigerator while driving or if I do not have shore power and am using the solar.

I have a primary GFCI main breaker, so all feeds are protected. My primary control panel came from one of those old motorhome distribution/converter panels I got from a local RV salvage yard for $5. I will be replacing the existing converter parts with one of my smart chargers though. Primarily I wanted the box for the 120 and 12 volt control panels.

All lights are LED.

dave

[big44g]

Generally all the chargers ( solar controller and AC 12V power supply) are connected directly to the batteries. All DC power then comes from the batteries to your DC fuse box.

The advantage is when you are connected to shore power or generator or solar, any extra capacity goes to the batteries. Of course that makes your DC power source be an intelligent charger, not just a simple converter. Then the transfer switch is unnecessary.

Having a switch to turn off the DC power between your batteries and the DC Load and the inverter is useful especially when in storage or under tow.

You will have to consider the inverter being on a switch or removable from the DC source. Inverters draw power even when no load is applied. Your current scheme (no pun intended) will run down the batteries while under tow.

You may want an AC panel with a circuit breaker for each AC outlet. Depends on your power needs. Some designs just use extension cords and power strips. If you are running air conditioning, then I would encourage a real power panel.

Definitely GFCI outlets inside or outside.

There are different schools of thought on having inverter at all. Most designs only have AC when connected to shore power or generators. Some designs are DC only. There are many devices that are DC including lights, fans, refrigs, televisions, radios, water pumps, water heaters. They typically are more efficient then converting DC to AC for a device. Would carrying one be useful at times, sure.

Thanks for the tips.

My thoughts were to use a transfer switch instead of expensive intelligent charger. This is due to the fact that I would not be using shore power that much, based on where we camp (no power), but wanted the cheapest option to power the DC side from AC power (if available or needed). Now I am thinking that it may be best If I just leave the converter off totally. Just use a battery charger when i do have shore power (which will not be much) and of course run the camper on DC batteries. Then I would not need a transfer switch.

I was wondering about the AC panel, Thanks, I think I will add it just for future options (does not add much cost), mostly for possible future Air conditioning. I do not camp in the summer in the south! But may if I had air conditioning.

Thanks again on the inverter battery drain, that was my thought but was unsure. I was only going to use a 400W inverter in order to charge my computer and camera batteries at night (if needed).

[tony.latham]

Gary:

I've been teardropping for eleven years. (Fortunate to live in a state that is mostly federal land and thus a boondocker's paradises.) I think some fifty nights in the last two years and I have never missed having 120 volts. (We don't need an air conditioner up here.)

So... the easiest thing would be to just go with a 12V system and your solar panels. Ask yourself what you might need on the 120V side. It's camping.

Tony